Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

30 block are cheap as.

but i would like to know the ans to this question also

is it due to the longer stroke which can smash the piston into the valves???

and how high would the head need to be raised to prevent this?

the tomie rb30 uses the 26 block with 3.0L crank so why isnt this possible to do yourself???

Edited by humz
hhmmm, interesting. Keeping an eye on this thread.

Have a look about 6 months ago.

Guy did it, wouldnt go into much detail so its safe to assume one of two things

1. He was talking shit

2. Is cost a lot of time, and money and probably isnt worth the effort

Plus, when a 26 crank works just fine, not sure why you would bother

As you know I want to but RB30 Crank because it has longer Stroke is more than RB26 Stroke, I mean if I can use RB26 Conrods because it's short and I think it will give me more renovation.

Edited by Supra2000

I think these forums need to be IQ means tested.

Lets look at the stroke of the following

rb26 86 x 73.7

rb30 86 x 85

Now thats the stroke - thats the distance the piston travels from the bottom of the bore to the top of the bore.

So the Rb30 travels 11.3mm overall more - divide that by 2, as half is at the bottom and the other half is at the top - so from basic maths the rb30 stroke is 5.65mm more than the rb26 at the bottom and at the top of the stroke.

So if you were to install a RB30 crank into a RB26 block, you would end up with a stroke that sticks the psiton 5.65mm higher than the RB26 crank - now this couldnt be good for your piston to head clearance.

So you would either have to use a custom piston or a custom conrod to make this work.

It would be a lot cheaper and easier to buy a RB30 4wd adaptor plate and bolt that in your GTR

As you know I want to but RB30 Crank because it has longer Stroke is more than RB26 Stroke, I mean if I can use RB26 Conrods because it's short and I think it will give me more renovation.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...