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Didnt get the GTR clutch fixed in time, so I took the Datto out.

15.972 @ 83.90 mph

5 runs learning new setup. Car felt very strong then;

On my 2nd qualifying run I sprung a oil leak on my oil pressure t piece, snapped fitting on the block. So I had to go back to town to get a thread easy out. Fixed and drove home no worries.

post-44657-1208697039_thumb.jpg

Guest Rexlr8

13.6@107miles

spun wheels through first and second"

Pretty good dude! Street tyres or semi slicks? If i didnt get my pay screwed up ( 200+ short ) i could have had a go. I'm just scared i'll leave my box behind at the line lol. 5spd isnt built for the strip.

You said you did 8 runs, could you of done more? Or is that all you were able/aloud to do. And what did you end up paying for the day.

hey u mob havnt bin out 4 a while prob wont be out much anymore im having major missfire issues around 4500 rpm under high boost but only if i plant it. if i slowly feed the throttle its ok but under load it sounds like it hits the speed limiter and dies in the ass. so sometime this week im goin 2 apply at jimmy's work for a job and start savin some good money then the real mods will start happening lol, oh pretty pissed off 2 i was drivin down the road and heard a noise like a rock or a stick got home and had a look and found a finger sized hole in my sideskirt just yet another thing i will have 2 get fixed owll lol. catch ya's

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    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
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