Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah pretty much. you need a CAMS scruitineer (and a heap of patience) for the initial rego but after that all you need is the license.

no chance of a URL, this is CAMS we are talking about. The paperwork they sent out for me was for a system that had been shut down about 18 months before. Anyway, call the state office and tell them you need to register an uncomplied/imported rally car - see if they have updated the doco.

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Thought I might chuck my 2 cents worth in.

I like the towcar/trailer way of doing it. It means you don't have to fill the car up with all your gear.

Lets face it,,, older GTR's are not the most reliable thing (or for that matter any racecar/track car) and driving to somewhere close like eastern creek

and breaking something can turn into a real hassle on a Sunday afternoon at 4.00pm.

Personally I see nothing wrong with buying a 2nd hand trailer. We bought our new one in 2004 cost just over 4 grand and it has never let us down.

Having said that it will be for sale soon and whoever buys it is going to get a bloody great trailer.

Racewerx trailer was a piece of shit to start with and no amount of money is going to make it great. It is dubed the "Death Trailer" for good reason.

The tow vehicle does come with issues if you buy the wrong car. Late model IRS utes are a joke. Everybody I have spoken to curses themselves as the rear end never stops sagging.

One guy uses a ba ute,,,tows a Mini on a single axle trailer and he lives at the dealership getting the rear end fixed all the time. It has even rubbed the bottom of the mudflaps.

Which ever way you jump you NEED insurance. Car and trailer or just the rally rego car.

Have fun.

Neil.

yeah pretty much. you need a CAMS scruitineer (and a heap of patience) for the initial rego but after that all you need is the license.

no chance of a URL, this is CAMS we are talking about. The paperwork they sent out for me was for a system that had been shut down about 18 months before. Anyway, call the state office and tell them you need to register an uncomplied/imported rally car - see if they have updated the doco.

So can a registered and complied vehicle be deregistered and then re- registered as race rally use..

Yeah the cars jus gotten to the point where i dont drive it on the road at all anymore jus to much hassle, and no point really. Hard to justify the price of rego for the few outings it gets to OP and workshops. Do i need a certain CAMS liscence or is L2S enough to obtain race/rally rego.

Cheers.

best thing to do for sure Mal is to contact the brokers and get them to look for you. They won't put most rnr cars on their wesbite because the market is too small, but they would be offered cars like that all the time.

I would (and did) talk to Jo@Powerplay Imports and see what she can find for you. For instance....she found a Group A gtr for Terry AShwood a couple of years ago. He didn't end up buying it but it gives you the idea. There would be lots of old super gt cars around, would love to pick up one of those one day.

best thing to do for sure Mal is to contact the brokers and get them to look for you. They won't put most rnr cars on their wesbite because the market is too small, but they would be offered cars like that all the time.

I would (and did) talk to Jo@Powerplay Imports and see what she can find for you. For instance....she found a Group A gtr for Terry AShwood a couple of years ago. He didn't end up buying it but it gives you the idea. There would be lots of old super gt cars around, would love to pick up one of those one day.

hmmmm....what Group A GTR was that do you know? Was it the won bought back recently?

Thought I might chuck my 2 cents worth in.

I like the towcar/trailer way of doing it. It means you don't have to fill the car up with all your gear.

Lets face it,,, older GTR's are not the most reliable thing (or for that matter any racecar/track car) and driving to somewhere close like eastern creek

and breaking something can turn into a real hassle on a Sunday afternoon at 4.00pm.

Personally I see nothing wrong with buying a 2nd hand trailer. We bought our new one in 2004 cost just over 4 grand and it has never let us down.

Having said that it will be for sale soon and whoever buys it is going to get a bloody great trailer.

Racewerx trailer was a piece of shit to start with and no amount of money is going to make it great. It is dubed the "Death Trailer" for good reason.

The tow vehicle does come with issues if you buy the wrong car. Late model IRS utes are a joke. Everybody I have spoken to curses themselves as the rear end never stops sagging.

One guy uses a ba ute,,,tows a Mini on a single axle trailer and he lives at the dealership getting the rear end fixed all the time. It has even rubbed the bottom of the mudflaps.

Which ever way you jump you NEED insurance. Car and trailer or just the rally rego car.

Have fun.

Neil.

what does the rally insurance cover? whats the cost like? and is it like road car insurance where people pay more or less depending on their age?

no he didn't end up agreeing on a price i think.

and its rally rego not rally insurance. My car runs rally rego with limited klm comprehensive insurance from shannons, it is super cheap, around 700pa for 35k agree value

no he didn't end up agreeing on a price i think.

and its rally rego not rally insurance. My car runs rally rego with limited klm comprehensive insurance from shannons, it is super cheap, around 700pa for 35k agree value

thats good on the full comp rally rego with insurance.

is that covered only when u are driving to and from events? and did you get insurance for the GTR in case somthing happens like. say the gtr gets damaged in between events whilst you are out on the streets while getting trailered 2 and from events?

its full comp insurance, there is just a 5000klm per year limit on usage. so theft, breakage, damage, street driving ont he way to events etc etc.

we have claimed the windscreen when it broke while we were working on it (oops), and could have made a claim (but chose not to) when this goose ran up the back of it (don't know how you can miss a yellow and purple race car?)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...