Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Are you from America? How can you call a Stagea a "small car" :P

Anyway, you also mentioned looking for a Stagea engine..... unless I am mistaken they have an rb25det just like an r33 gts-t? What is the difference?

sorry my post is a bit confusing. i meant that the gts4 is heavy for a small car.

as someone else said the sumps etc are different between 2 and 4 wd 25's

Ah i have no doubt that within the 1st month my gearbox will be scattered all over the road somewhere!

What the use of building up a car if you dont break something along the way?

Haha you should be fine if you are only pushign round 260-280kw

The GTS4 gearboxes are strong as :) unlike the standard GTS-t ones

They are similar strength to the GTR but different ratios apparently, but yeah RIPS and a few others over here in NZ regularly run the GTS4 gearboxes with no trouble,

It's basically 3rd gear that you have to be easy on, but that goes for the GTR boxes as well, they tend to strip them if you don't change gently down the strip :S

that being said, mines still fine :) for now...although it's off the road for 6 months for "modifications"...

It might not be a 'real' gtr, but I like the fact that I can park it somewhere and not have to sit there watching it all the time, afraid of it getting pinched, keyed, etc. No-one cares about a bunky.

It would be interesting to get a gtr and gts4 on a weighbridge, for a start I have seen wildly varying reports on r32 gtr weights across the production run, the motor in the gts4 might be lighter, but the gtr has aluminium fenders and bonnet.. could be even closer than that.

I probably woudln't have bought a stock gts4, was looking at rb25 r32 gtst's. This one popped up cheap, but looked like my avatar. Spent the first two months of ownership in the panel shop getting rebuilt. Although it did come with gtr brakes, suspension, drivetrain. Gts4 diff ratios. Lots of fun. Stock motor stock turbos with 221rwkw.. so far.

james.

It might not be a 'real' gtr, but I like the fact that I can park it somewhere and not have to sit there watching it all the time, afraid of it getting pinched, keyed, etc. No-one cares about a bunky.
Then come and have a look at my passenger door. It is the same door that was fixed (from a keying incident) before I bought it.

I don't think it matters a rat's what the car is - some people just have no respect for other people's property, and will run a key along the door simply for the sake of it.

for starters the GTS4 has a GTSt's heavy bonnet, guards and boot. Swap em for GTR items and there's a good enough weight saving. The diff is pretty pisspoor compared to a GTR. Viscous LSD's suck. Good diff ratio's though... unless you own an auto GTS4, in which case you'd have the worst diff ratio of the field.

Its a GTSt that was made for going to the snow and pulling your boat around. Its not the next step up from a GTSt to a GTR.

I own one because they're so much fun to mod... you get to play with ATTESA, ABS, HICAS (if you don't rip it out) and still run a single turbo that's very daily drivable. The ECU is virtually identical to a GTSt, so modding that is piss easy (try doin that on a stagea). You can get parts from GTRs (suspension, drivetrain) and GTSt's (turbo's, bodykits etc).

To me that's exactly what I like in a skyline... "tinkerability".

they are just a 4wd gtst, and anyone who calls it a 'mini godzilla' is a knob.

What a stupid thing to say buddy. How is a GTS4 NOT a mini godzilla. It clealry is just with a smaller engine and one less turbo. It has ATTESSA it's just got less power. Keeping that in mind my GTS4 is running about 300hp at the moment and will destroy a tool in a V8 and quite a few Skylines etc. and I have great handling, and shit is it fun in the wet. For those who dont want to outlay the extra $$ for a GTR a GTS4 is a great option. And it is a Mini Godzilla. No-ones claiming it is a Godzilla. PLUS if you purchase the GTS4 then put in say and RB30DET it's cheaper than a GTR, It's got better diff gears and it'l go quicker than a GTR. You're the nob stooge.

Take it easy all.

Edited by WhatBrake
y dont u not waste all that money on it and buy a gtr like a normal person

If this is directed at me then i answer you with a "why"?

I could easily just drop an RB25 or an RB26 in and be done with it but that too easy.

THe RB20 is a HIGHLY underrated unit. I love em to death and refuse to trade up. Maybe one day.

What a stupid thing to say buddy. How is a GTS4 NOT a mini godzilla.

because its got all the weight of a GTR and none of the power. The worst of both worlds! GTR is about performance, and the GTS-4 doesn't have much of that - power, brakes, diff, track... GTS-4 was a commuter with awd, that's all. The GTS-T is a better performer than the GTS-4, maybe its a more worthy contender for the min-GTR title???

its not a mini GTR even if you add the front bar and rear spoiler :thumbsup:, its still just a heavier, slower GTS-T.

Edited by hrd-hr30
because its got all the weight of a GTR and none of the power. The worst of both worlds!
Actually its heavier than the GTR as it has the non lightweight fenders and bonnet of the GTSt, and the heavy drivetrain/chassis of the GTR :P

It was sold quite literally as the skyline you'd buy so you wouldn't get bogged in the snow, or if you wanted a GTSt that could tow a boat/jetski... in the R32 the power to weight wasn't good enough that they had to include a turbo, but in conswquent models they took that away and made them N/A.

That said, once you start modding them and replce the GTSt parts with GTR parts they can be a bit of fun.

As an aside, they used to make AWD diesel mirages for use in snowy areas. No one liked them much until one smart lad decided to put mitsubishi cyborg parts in it and made a pocket rocket. The point I'm trying to make is that one man's trash is another man's treasure. Try to keep an open mind.

hi from kiwiland

my not so baby godzilla is running a rb30det with a gtr box and it probably more fun than a stock gtr :D .

if you want to put a 25det in you can use an adapter plate between the sump and block with the rwd blocks.awd blocks are wider at the bottom to accommodate the gts4/gtr sumps.

the gts4 boxs r ok but the gtr boxes r heavier ?stronger with a very tall gears(im getting about 65km out of 1st :) )

the best post is the "r33 rb30 conversion" which covers most the 4wd mods needed for the rb30det which will be the same for the rb25det but if you're gonna put an rb25 in you might as well put an rb30 in as it gives you a bigger bang for your bucks.

p.s im pretty sure R.I.P.S uses an r33 gtr box in his 10 gts4 rb30det

l8ta

1.) stop calling a GTR a GODZILLA

2.) stop calling anything a BABY GODZILLA

3.) RIPS "now" uses a GTR box in the 10sec GTS4 but it had run a few 10's with the stock GTS4 box.

obviously it broke, just like the GTR one will eventually break.

I too had a 4 door GTS4.

piss poor performance with the RB20.

only good things was the launch. once you are moving, it's a slow heavy gutless vehicle.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...