Jump to content
SAU Community

Standed Ecu Upgrades

amordus

By amordus,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

zertek Proficient

zertek

Posted
Posted
While on the topic just a quick question because i can't be bothered searching through 100 posts. You can't run an RB20 remapped ECU on an RB25 Series 2 because of the internal ignitor, correct???

Hm... ive never heard of this problem... keen to hear more also.

PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted

Pretty much what i remember reading a little while ago is because series 1 has an external ignitor for the coil packs and series 2 doesn't, a remapped RB20 ECU wont run on a series 2 unless you run an external ignitor.

Hmmm i guess i might just do some searching.

siddr20 Grand Master

siddr20

Posted
Posted

Another guy in another thread posted that, r32 ecu was straight plug in.. Only concer is no VCT support..

quote:

no probs what so ever, plugs straight in, however the 20 ecu cannot run the VCT, was no real issue for me as with the remap done, timing changed, boost raised it still has bucket loads of torque down low anyway!

Getting full boost at 2500 rpm, makes 215 rwkw on 0.9 bar with stock turbo. Drives like a dream, smooth clean power with awesome responce!

PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted

Hmmm, the reason i asked about the RB20 ECU on a series II is because one of my mates is a tuner and has a spare RB20 ECU that he could put an RB25 map on and tune it for me. At the moment my car is hitting boost cut/ airflow cut (whatever the hell you want to call it) at 4000rpm on 1 bar of boost on my HKS turbo.

I have 2 options that are possible to do at the moment:

1) Modify a standard actuator to fit the HKS turbo instead of the HKS adjustable actuator and run less boost to avoid the boost cut.

2) Remapped RB20 ECU to get rid of the boost cut and be able to tune it.

Now i know that a full ECU replacement is the best choice, and i will be doing that in the future, just dont have the funds at the moment so im looking at only the 2 above solutions.

So yeah thats my problem at the moment, if i can get the RB20 ECU to run on the series II its going to solve the boost cut problem, because at the moment its giving me the sh*ts.

Dr_Drift Veteran

Dr_Drift

Posted
Posted (edited)

I didn't know nistune could do the R33 stuff yet.... hmm might have to chat to Matt...

We use daughterboards and real time emulation same as we have on the RB20's for a couple of years now :)

Edited by Dr_Drift
Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted

i just heard that they are testing.. it was on their site. They will need someone to test it for them lol

I didn't know nistune could do the R33 stuff yet.... hmm might have to chat to Matt...

We use daughterboards and real time emulation same as we have on the RB20's for a couple of years now :thumbsup:

mesmerized Mentor

mesmerized

Posted
Posted (edited)
I think if you remove the kick panel and lie it on the floor, it won't be standed anymore.

ROFL....i kill me !!! >_<

:laughing-smiley-014: the lame/funny approach to being a spelling nazi :thumbsup:

if your in sydney, i've heard hills motorsport does remaps for r33 gtst's for $350

Edited by into oblivion
Dr_Drift Veteran

Dr_Drift

Posted
Posted
if your in sydney, i've heard hills motorsport does remaps for r33 gtst's for $350

These are the simple plug in chip upgrades, and to the best of my knowledge CANNOT be tuned in real time, and also require purchase of a new SINGLE USE CHIP every time you want a new map loaded...

The method we are using is converting the R33 to run a single 27C256 eprom, which can be re-used, as well as tuned in real time with full map tracing etc etc... Hence, the initial $$ are a bit higher, but the end results are WELL worth it.

siddr20 Grand Master

siddr20

Posted
Posted

hehe yea the $$ is scarin me a little.. But i might be a guinee pig and try it out..

so when did you say you are coming to sydney?

Also you got any dyno figures sam? just to see what a similar rb25 with basic mods can acheive..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...