Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Was thinking of getting one of those foam/mushroom air filters the ones made by HKS or Greddy but was speaking to someone and they said they don't filter well and sand will end up in the inake manifold and kill my engine. Anyone know if this is true?

Cheers.

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Get a name-brand one, and maintain it (eg replace/oil filter as maintenance) and it'll perform great.

If they were that bad for the car you wouldn't see them on top end time attack cars as seen in BMI videos.

Get a name-brand one, and maintain it (eg replace/oil filter as maintenance) and it'll perform great.

If they were that bad for the car you wouldn't see them on top end time attack cars as seen in BMI videos.

Yeah that's exactly what I said but the mechanic reckons they are on there because they make the outright most power, they flow the best but let the most debris throgh. I was reading on the forums and people with the hks pods say they are really loud so the part about them flowing the greatest must be true.

my old hks pod sounded the best by far, but after i got it tuned running 20+psi minimum, i did find that the foam was slowly being sucked in, clogging up my afm at the start, then once i removed afm i noticed it around my turbo mouth slightly... i now use K&N, although induction noise isnt "as" loud, its still noticible though, but filters alot better.

Edited by 2BNVS

Cant remember which magazine, think it was Zoom, did a test on different pod filters and it turned out that the foam style filters were the worst filtering out of all of them.

On a timeattack car they are only really worried about making power, not the long term life of the engine.

Definitely not a good argument to say that because a purpose built race car uses one filter that it will therefore be a good choice for a road car.

Id steer clear if possible

APEXi power intakes are probably one of the best quality filters I have seen.

Really strong design and very durable, where as the HKS foam style filters along with the TRUST ones need regular maintenance such as oiling and changing of the filament regularly.

Have seen a HKS filter at its worst, only had about 70% left what what should have been a full filter! Foam does tend to break away and get sucked in over time, especially when your running high boost.

Just play it safe and use a paper filter, they work very well and will last you a long time.

Edited by abu
Whats wrong with a airbox and panel filter?

Sounds boring? Hehe

Cant always use standard air box that easily with after market turbo's either.

Easier to just throw a pipe and pod on.

Edited by abu

AutoSalon mag tested all the popular pod filters a while back, and the best performer was a cheapo 3T Racing paper filter- can't remember the exact name. I'm sure someone will correct me.

But, yes: paper > foam

The newest HKS foam filter is a triple layer dry unit, you don't oil it. The older style oil type is a twin layer and usually purple in colour [although I've seen other colours, green, blue, yellow etc]. The new triple layer dry foam filter is a light blue.

my old hks pod sounded the best by far, but after i got it tuned running 20+psi minimum, i did find that the foam was slowly being sucked in, clogging up my afm at the start, then once i removed afm i noticed it around my turbo mouth slightly... i now use K&N, although induction noise isnt "as" loud, its still noticible though, but filters alot better.

yeah i have a hks pod it is a bit worn out and dirty might change it actually. but yeah they make a mad! induction noise

im just looking for a new element now and was wondering is there a difference with yellow element and green? is one better than the other?

also i notice there is a blue and the packet says "3 layer dry element" take it thats a better one...

wouldnt the oiled elements filter better?

Edited by 4drftn

Hmmmm..! I was/am running 2x HKS's, they seem ok to me(the Green multi-layer ones). Dyno said they were good, but thats all I can vouch for to be honest... oh, and they fit neatly under the hood too.

Anyway, they are for sale, as now got Z32's under hood.

Anyone got good, honest opinion on what to replace them with?

Sorry to Hi-jack this thread, but it is covering same subject.

im just looking for a new element now and was wondering is there a difference with yellow element and green? is one better than the other?

also i notice there is a blue and the packet says "3 layer dry element" take it thats a better one...

wouldnt the oiled elements filter better?

Can't say about the colours, maybe genuine vs non HKS???

The light blue triple layer unit is a better thing. You don't have to oil it so no afm contamination, also the third layer has a very small cell size and [it looks like when compared to the purple dual layer units] it would definitely scrub the air better.

Oiled elements do a very good job, the oil traps the dust, unfortunately - esp. if you over oil - you can get oil on the afm sensor and affect performance. Any filter that uses a prelube or oil will do this.

The real secret to having a good air filter is to clean it often and replace it as per specs regularly. And we are all guilty of overclocking at some stage.

I thought about replacing my HKS mushroom pod with a K+N/Apexi pod, but when the dry triple layer elements came out I stayed with it and just replaced the filter.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
×
×
  • Create New...