Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

g'day all,

i just took the door trim off my 1994 r32 GTR to fit some sound deadening, and i can't see any side intrusion bars in there.

i know it was complied in nsw, but how should i find out who did it?

hmmm...i wonder what legs i have to stand on...what should i do?

Cheers,

M..

well....the company that complied it is named on the compliance plate under the bonnet.

So if you do want to do something about it contact them and see what they say. And if you still want to do more and they won't co-operate take it up with DOTARS.

Are you realy shure that theres nothing in there? Because the late 32GTR's came factory fited with side intrusion bars. It looks like a fairly puny little thing that runs along the inside of the doors. Ive got one in my passenger door in my 32 GTR

get pics up and make sure that you definately dont have them, after that, dont bother with the workshop, go straight to dotars and get em shut the f*ck down. if they are taking shortcuts when it comes to your safety, f*ck em!

hi all,

thanks for all the good replies, i really appreciate it.

a) i can't be absolutely sure that there is no bar in the door - if they're small i may have missed it

b) i haven't checked the driver's side, this will help me compare them

c) i've contacted DOTARS by email, no reply as yet

d) obviously if the door has no bar fitted, i'll get them put in.

it's an interesting problem - there's a moral hazard to not telling dotars, and a moral hazard to telling them...hmmm....

Edited by Meiji

cant get them put in supposedly unless the compliance shop can source Raw's compliant ones

which mine couldnt :)

suplier is in Queensland supposedly and hadnt made any yet

there right up the top not like the aftermarket ones they put in and are hard up against the outer door skin

u can no longer put aftermark intrusion bars in for RAWS vehicles they must be OEM fitted trusion bars and doors. as for trying to contact DOTARS its kinda pointless the workshop will just say they were there wen we complied it..

u can no longer put aftermark intrusion bars in for RAWS vehicles they must be OEM fitted trusion bars and doors.

Who told you this? This is the opposite of what I've heard and seen recently.

Who told you this? This is the opposite of what I've heard and seen recently.

This is the same as what happened to my car, as they weren't allowed to just add intrusion bars so i had to get some white doors with OEM bars fitted and paint them black

hi guys,

ok, here's a photo looking up towards the top of the door, on the inside:

insidedoor.jpg

should there be anything there? i don't know if there's something behind that bulging but of metal in the middle of the picture.

btw i thought the same thing as razor - that you can use oem parts for these units?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...