Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys my mate has an r33 s2, he wants to put his afm in the cooler piping. would i be able to get some feedback? is it safe? does it affect the computer?

if i can get some replies that would be great

much appriciated :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183632-afm-in-the-cooler-piping/
Share on other sites

Can be done, no real beneficial reason to do it unless you want to make the car dose/flutter pretty loud.

I believe you get a few stalling issues when the AFM is in the cooler piping due to the air flow readings being altered.

Not 100% sure so wont get into detail, someone else will get into that.

What was the reason behind putting it into the cooler piping?

Edited by abu
Can be done, no real beneficial reason to do it unless you want to make the car dose/flutter pretty loud.

I believe you get a few stalling issues when the AFM is in the cooler piping due to the air flow readings being altered.

Not 100% sure so wont get into detail, someone else will get into that.

What was the reason behind putting it into the cooler piping?

he just wants to do it to get a bit of a longer and louder flutter/dose pretty much. but thanks for your information mate :)

The afm was not designed to be fitted in a pressurised environment, besides that I don't know why you would want to... Some people supposedly do it to stop stalling after they block off/fit atmo bov or they want to fit a gulping big 6" intake pipe thats not needed.

he just wants to do it to get a bit of a longer and louder flutter/dose pretty much. but thanks for your information mate :D

No worries.

Personally think its worth it for the dose, but some would disagree, if not most!.. :)

Edited by abu
doing that reduces lag a little i dont know how exactly but it does...just get a good tune too to keep everything safe..and of course it gives the flutter.

Reduces lag!?

Are you sure man?

I dont see how it would, there wouldn't be any reason why it would..

Edited by abu

It improves throttle response by reducing the amount of air between the afm and inlet valve. I'll try to explain how this works.

AFM only measure air flowing past its sensor wire, now all of the air between the afm and the inlet valves has been premeasured. The engine must use this air before the afm sends the signal to the ecu to adjust load points that the ecu used to calculate fuel and timing requirements.

So say you're driving along at part throttle then u floor it there is some time that passes before the afm measures the change in airflow.

does it make much difference, probably bugger all.

Oh yeah if i was going to do this i'd put the afm post cooler and i'd look at getting a afm body machined from alloy.

cheers

he just wants to do it to get a bit of a longer and louder flutter/dose pretty much. but thanks for your information mate :)
bam said i want to put on a big 6" intake

rofl x 2

doing all that just for a bit of dose...or whatever the f**k it is

i read in a mag that this gets done to fix PFC disease(rare idle issue), they also said that doing it should not affect your tune as it is still measuring air flow past a wire (weather its pre or post turbo its still the same airflowing through it). thats wat i gathered from the article.

Aif

It improves throttle response by reducing the amount of air between the afm and inlet valve. I'll try to explain how this works.

AFM only measure air flowing past its sensor wire, now all of the air between the afm and the inlet valves has been premeasured. The engine must use this air before the afm sends the signal to the ecu to adjust load points that the ecu used to calculate fuel and timing requirements.

So say you're driving along at part throttle then u floor it there is some time that passes before the afm measures the change in airflow.

that isn't quite right. the ecu also works off tps so it will know when the throttle is being opened and will put in some enrichment to compensate.

also you have the fact that the afm will cop a heap of oil if your turbo seal blows or you have blow by issues and would need to be cleaned every few days.

i done this only for the reason this to my car was to eliminate the 4 inch inlet of the turbo being reduced to like 2 1/2" from the afm so i put it on the pressure side of the piping so i can have 4 inh all the way to the turbo inlet

f*#k the dose i try my hardest to get rid of it if you want a dose get a vl

muzza'z lol

I wish all you dosing (fully sick) skyline owners would sell up and go back to Homodores.

Sick of all this bullshit modification for the sake of a stupid sound which impresses very few people anyway!

Save your time and money on actually modifying for a performance gain perhaps.......aahhh whatever each to their own.

Flame away my dosing freinds.

i htink this idea is flawless at best without an ECU tune of some sort to compensate for the new AFM location

my understanding of hte AFM is this..

the AFM works by calculating. it does not directly measure airflow.

it has a wire that hangs into the lumen of the pipe. this wire heats up to a certain temperature that correlates with a certain resistance in the AFM (contains a variable resistor). when ambient air flows over that wire, it cools the wire down. the more air that flows over the wire, the more it cools the wire down. thus, as airflow increases the wire cools down more and the resistance in the AFM changes. this correlates with a change in voltage to the ECU.

this way, the ECU knows approximately what the airflow is based on the hot wire's operation.

now i see 2 major flaws with placing the AFM in the cooler piping

1) the air is compressed. there is absolutely no evicence that i've ever seen that says that compressed air will cool the wire at the same rate as air at atmospheric pressure. let's look at it from the particle model. say i have 100 particles of O2 in a fixed space and it cools the hot wire by 0.1degC. well if this is compressed to 1bar i now have 200 particles in that fixed space. who's to say that this compressed air will cool the wire by 0.2degC? i don't think the relationship will be as linear as you might think.

2) the air is hot. that's right, its after the turbo. that means that the air going over the wire could be up to 50-80degC having just come out of hte turbo. i don't think hot air will be able to extract heat from the wire as would ambient air, and if it does then it wouldn't be at the same rate as ambient air that passes over the AFM normally.

--> but, i believe that both these issues could be compensated for by a good tuner

so, in summary... my understanding is:

1) the AFM works on a hot wire principal

2) placing it after the AFM means that it measures compressed air not normal air, thus it will not measure effectively without a re-tune

3) placing it after the AFM means that it measures hotter air rather than ambient air, thus it will not measure effectively without a re-tune

this is only based on my understanding of how the AFM works and my understanding of basic physics/chemistry. it might help or it might not, but i thought i would throw it in for discussion

cheers,

Warren

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...