Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

dried too damn light! it was meant to be a darker grey... instead it almost a light grey/blue

one good thing came from it... i finally mounted the guage properly... cant see the wires or hose anymore. oh and the light works now :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18374-painted-the-dash-bits-in-my-car/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

i see, interesting.. kinda looking a post modern slate-blue you have there.

i remember i went the easy option ..went into the hardware store.. looked around.. "hnmmm cherry red that sounds sex". I'm glad I went for that, I like it nice and bright.

Guest INASNT
Originally posted by predator666

pft.. i actually had the idea well before you did yours when i was stuffing around painting and ricing up my computer at the time.  

anyway, its not like its that original. Some come from Japan with it already done.

i still did it first :P

btw the profec b spec II blue back lit goes real well with the rest of my interior.

i cant be bothered taking it all out again to paint it a darker grey so im going to have to finish everything else in the same colour... what a pain in the arse... i wanted something less obvious or attention atracting.

it was night time... i do everything when i get home from work. Much to the delight of my neghbours :D

it looked perfect when i was puting it in... wasnt til i woke up this afternoon that i noticed it

Guest INASNT
Originally posted by Ronin 09

Hey inasnt, did you do the centre console surround? how hard it it to take off? I want to do it in gloss black :D (does that count as rice?)

nope didnt do it.

come off very easily, 2 screws near the seat belt joiners and 2 under the gear stick.

narkeh... being a panel beater n all u shoulda known the colour changes when it dries, didn't you do a test spray the night before?? u n00b!

BTW u'r engine bay is now yelow and your interior is baby blue... u'r not like becoming a hippy or some shit are you? :hippy:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Man, different parts but the same numbers is terrible @dbm7! And it doesn't help that most online shops don't list the part numbers at all. They just give a list of compatible models...
    • Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
×
×
  • Create New...