Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Bought this car off a mate and basically i have to go back to my physio placement for uni in a few weeks, so i cant work anymore.

The car is 1992, Black 5 speed manual turbo

It has

Sunroof

FMIC

S15 rims

Lowered springs

BOV

Strut Brace

Pod

3"cat back exhaust

Alpine Stereo

Heavy duty clutch New

Just been dynoed at southern hi tech dyno by John Keen

Made 153 rwkw at 12 psi so engine and turbo are both healthy

ASKING 10, 490 o.n.o

Car has recently run out of NSW rego so if your in another state, just need to take it down to your local transport station and get rego changed over to your name. I will get the car registered in SA for an extra $500.

Im in SA but willing to send interstate. If you want more information, please PM me and dont ask questions in this box. Im willing to talk business about price etc with people who call me or send me serious pms. Im heaps busy and want a quick and easy sale. This car is a steal for that price so please no time wasters

Luke

0414391972

Pics will be up soon

Ps.. oil on the ground is not leaking.. its from the messy oil change i did!

post-12291-1189158995_thumb.jpg

post-12291-1189160324_thumb.jpg

post-12291-1189160825_thumb.jpg

post-12291-1189160866_thumb.jpg

post-12291-1190101180_thumb.jpg

post-12291-1190101256_thumb.jpg

post-12291-1190101327_thumb.jpg

post-12291-1190101359_thumb.jpg

post-12291-1190101397_thumb.jpg

Edited by lukew105

Car is in good nick, I went and checked it out myself.

Reason I didn't take it as previous question before: It's not registered and last thing I need is the trouble getting it on the road, especially at the price he is asking, and I wasn't going to negotiate on anything I couldn't/wouldn't commit to, in other words stuff him around. I didn't get a chance to check out the underneath chassis for any previous significant accidents though (it was at night).

Good luck with the sale.

at the price im asking? and yes u were a time waster

CAR SOLD PENDING PAYMENT

I didn't waste your time, I was completely upfront. I simply checked it out. You said you were going to register it on Tuesday and I came back to this thread to see if you'd updated it etc then I'd make an offer. As I said (and when I checked it out); I wasn't going to buy a car that could *possibly* take time to get on the road with extra costs.

I also offered compensation just for your time anyway (beers or some cash wouldn't have bothered me). I also made it clear that I needed a ride quickly since I had no other mode of transport.

As I said before, good luck with the sale as I have already purchased my other car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...