Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

can any1 do this on my r32 ill even pay them but i am in vic pm me
^^ yehh same wanna get it done badd

shameful plug :P

bar.jpg

has a dent on right side needs bog and repaint, refer 2 sig for details.

as far as i've been told for the r32 theres 1.that came with that removable light strip, 2. then one with the "skyline" cut out and 3. the normal one

  • Replies 109
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

as far as i've been told for the r32 theres 1.that came with that removable light strip, 2. then one with the "skyline" cut out and 3. the normal one
^^ how much would that cost to repair the bar + lights + to get it sprayed black? oh and who cut the skyline out?

nissan did. (altho the panel behind it is just stuck on)

repair =($10-$15 bog from supercheap+ sum sanding) + lights are rare,unsure :S. will need 2 replace at least the broken one of course. get it sprayed black = $3-$60 ($3 d.i.y spray can from bunnings, clean and prep b4 painting) or $60 painter/panel beater

Edited by Dan_J

It's awesome how rare these things are and I have one. But decided to sell it. Some guy paid me $250 for it then wanted a refund. GRRHHHH

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=145909670

P.S Don't PM me guys, don't want to ship that far lol

Edited by Chang

^^ i know it's not hard, i've shipped a Hicas pump to someone on here before. It's more that i'm just lazy lol

What do you reckon they're worth. I didn't know so stuck up a price, but am gathering alot of interest at current price.

  • 2 weeks later...

I'll have to take mine of and have a look to see why its not working anymore.

I've got the strip stuck onto the back of my R32 gtst so should be handy enough to get it working again :banana:

I didn't realise these where worth so much :)

its wired up to the brake lights but i chose to wire it up with the wires that would light up when i turn on the lights and not when i brake.. am i making sense here? i dont know how to put it in a shorter and less confusing sentence...

i sprayed the garnish to fit the car color (but it doesnt :banana: ) , cos the garnish is clear and the leds would be too bright, i put some masking tape over the letters, was planning to peel em out after i sprayed the garnish, but when i fitted it on b4 peeling the tape out, it looked good enough. had that 'embossed' look. so was happy leaving the masking tape on :) ..

about the color, anyone know where i can get the exact colors for touch up in a spray can? color is gmg..

its wired up to the brake lights but i chose to wire it up with the wires that would light up when i turn on the lights and not when i brake.. am i making sense here? i dont know how to put it in a shorter and less confusing sentence...

In short that'd be the tail lights :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...