Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

NM35 and HM35's began rolling off the production line in mid 2001.

If you give us the VIN, we can look it up in FAST for you to find the build date.

VIN is: NM35-305827

Will check brake/fuel lines and seat belts also.

Thanks for the help!

Langers

Edited by Langers
+1

Looks like it also has

1) Super fine hard coat

2) Cold pack.

I think the cold pack is heated side mirrors and heated front windscreen.

Cheers

Andy

That's great thanks Chris and Andy!!!

Do you (or anyone) happen to know if the Super Fine Hard Coat and Cold Pack (or anything else) effect its import/compliance elligibility in Australia?

Langers

Edited by Langers
That's great thanks Chris and Andy!!!

Do you (or anyone) happen to know if the Super Fine Hard Coat and Cold Pack (or anything else) effect its import/compliance elligibility in Australia?

Langers

The SFHC (Super Fine Hard Coat) definately doesn't, mine plus a few other's that have been imported of late have this. It's merely a clear coat over the top of the paint for extra protection.

I wouldn't see the cold pack creating any major hassles, if it's again ADR they will probably just disconnect it or cut the wires of something. Though I wouldn't expect they would need to, they will more than likely do that with the fog lights tho :D

My foglights are not working but i havn't had a look yet to see if they just disconnected the wiring or whether they cut the wires, or removed the fuse.

My fog lights work and the car was complianced a month ago so I wouldn't have thought it was an issue, are yours special?

Thanks for the info Bis-e Bee.

Sorry... can't say exactly what sort or how special fog lights are right now... I could send a photo of the front if that would help?

Edited by Langers
I want those cold pack mirrors. Living in Canberra they're a must. Importers call me!

My fog lights work and the car was complianced a month ago so I wouldn't have thought it was an issue, are yours special?

Compliance workshops from what I've heard are meant to disconnect them, ADR are a bit touchy with them and they are only ever to be used in adverse conditions.

Hopefully mine have only been disconnected so that I can just hook them back up.

cbf checking if this has been covered, but here are three M35 Oil Filters that I would recommend (for use with Motul 300v of course!)

Nismo (Veruspeed): 15208-RN010

K&N: HP-1008

Amsoil: Ea012

You can get the Nismo filter here

K&N should be stocked (or ordered) at any Autobarn store (don't know about Auto1)

Amsoil filter needs to be bought (or ordered) from an Amsoil dealer.

Remember! M35's require 5L of oil (which makes the 300v stuff Farkin' expensive).

Edited by iamhe77
  • Like 1
stagea_big.gif

M35 Stagea Info

There are a few different threads about the M35 Stageas on these forums, but most are early thoughts and opinions or specific queries. So I thought a more generic thread of info on them might be useful for people. Feel free to correct or suggest additions :devil:

Main Changes

Some of the main changes for the M35 over the earlier C34 models that I like:


Longer wheel base giving more leg room up front, and importantly 9cm extra "knee room" for rear seat passengers, but still larger boot space (500 litres, up from 475). Also more headroom.

Improved weight ratio. The longer wheel base also allows engine to shift back over front wheels and fuel tank under rear seat - giving a much better 52:48 weight ratio over the wheels (51:49 in 2wd models), and much better handling

5 speed tiptronic vs 4 speed

Larger fuel tank - M35 is 80L vs 68L previous model

Switch to VQ25DET engine, providing big increase in torque over the series 2, from 334Nm at 3200rpm to 407Nm at 3200rpm - and very noticeble pick up in pulling such a heavy car.

Half-hatch rear door - quick opening of glass section to access boot)

Much better
for crumple zones etc in accidents including a mechanism that 'drops' the engine in front-on collisions, as well as loads of new technoology features like the seat cushion protection system

Larger rolling diametre (680mm vs 540mm - larger again in AR-X)

New design improves aerodynamics with zero aerodynamic lift at high speed

Front mount intercooler in M35 vs side mount in C34... can use slightly modified factory piping etc and just put larger cooler in

New multi-link rear suspension designed specifically for wagons. Coil springs mounted separately from the shock absorbers and lowers the upper attachment position of the shock absorbers by 270 mm compared with previous model, minimising intrusions into the luggage area.

Integration of the plastic back door with the body structure. A newly developed rubber side wedge incorporating a spring and an automatic back door closure enable the back door to function as an integral part of the body structure. The damping effect of the plastic back door reduces the body vibration typically in wagons, providing superior handling and stability combined with increased comfort and lower noise.

Option of factory 200w Bose sound system including spare-wheel-well mounted subwoofer

New storage compartment under rear floor - lifts up on hydraulic sliders - made possible with moving fuel tank under back seat

DVD / Sat-nav option... even without the conversion - it has great engine management display functionality including mileage, fuel mix, etc etc

"Intelligent" cruise control which adjusts the cars speed according to the distance and speed of the car up front using a small grille mounted sensor


Model Variants:

From 2001 to 2003 the following range of models were available:

  • 250RS/RS V/RX: VQ25DD engine (V6 2.5L NA, direct injection, 158.3 kW), rear wheel drive NOT ELIGIBLE FOR IMPORT
  • 250RS FOUR/RX FOUR: VQ25DD engine (V6 2.5L NA, direct injection, 158.3 kW), four wheel drive NOT ELIGIBLE FOR IMPORT
  • 250tRS FOUR V/RX FOUR: VQ25DET engine (V6 2.5L single turbo, 205.94 kW), four wheel drive ELIGIBLE FOR IMPORT - COMPLIANCE UP TO 11/03 MODELS AVAILABLE
  • 300RX: VQ30DD engine (V6 3.0L NA, direct injection, 191.23 kW), rear wheel drive ELIGIBLE FOR IMPORT - COMPLIANCE NOT AVAILABLE

There were a couple of sub-variants:

  • 250tRS FOUR V HICAS: A 250tRS FOUR V with the addition of the Nissan HICAS four wheel steering system ELIGIBLE FOR IMPORT - COMPLIANCE UP TO 11/03 MODELS AVAILABLE
  • AR-X FOUR: A 250t FOUR (ie 2,5L turbo/4wd) model with increased ride height, leather, 18" rims and SUV-like body ornaments. 206 kW ELIGIBLE FOR IMPORT - COMPLIANCE UP TO 11/03 MODELS AVAILABLE
  • The were 4 'aero selection' models added in 2002 to the 250RS/250tRS FOUR/250tRS FOUR V/250tRS FOUR V HICAS ranges, this added a bodykit to the standard car.

From 2004 the range was modified:

  • 250RX: VQ25DD engine (V6 2.5L NA, direct injection, 158.3 kW), rear wheel drive NOT ELIGIBLE FOR IMPORT
  • 250RX FOUR: VQ25DD engine (V6 2.5L NA, direct injection, 158.3 kW), four wheel drive NOT ELIGIBLE FOR IMPORT
  • 350RX: VQ35DE engine (V6 3.5L NA 200 kW), rear wheel drive ELIGIBLE FOR IMPORT - COMPLIANCE NOT AVAILABLE
  • 350RX FOUR: VQ35DE engine (V6 3.5L NA, 200 kW), four wheel drive ELIGIBLE FOR IMPORT - COMPLIANCE NOT AVAILABLE
  • AR-X FOUR: VQ35DE engine (V6 3.5L NA, 200 kW), four wheel drive with increased ride height, leather, 18" rims and SUV-like body ornaments ELIGIBLE FOR IMPORT - COMPLIANCE NOT AVAILABLE

There was also an Autech variant called an AXIS (with bodykit, custom leather, lowered suspension, different rims), eligible for import and able to be complied for manufacture dates to 11/03 with the VQ25DET. The Axis 350S (VQ35DE and 6 speed manual transmission) is eligible for import but no RAWS currently have compliance approval.

Links to Information:

Official Nissan Stagea Site Loads of info on the M35s on the nissan site - just get the translator working! Has lots of moving images including diagramatic morph of the wgc34 into an M35 :P

** more to come

Links to Aftermarket Parts etc:












Compliance

Compliance is currently only available for M35s fitted with the VQ25DET engine and with a build date of 11/03 or earlier. While other engine variants are indicated as 'eligible for import' they do not as yet have a RAWS that has successfully passed testing. It is rumoured testing might be underway for M35s with the VQ35DE engine (2004 - 2007 should be ok as the VQ35DE is unlikely to face the ADR79 emmission problems the VQ25DET is facing).

RAWS workshops currently able to offer compliance:

  • Northside Prestige in Sydney

  • Motovation Imports in Burleigh QLD

For the latest info, search for RAWS here

Assorted pictures:

HotM35.jpeg

1a_03_01.jpg

2b_03.jpg2a_06.jpg

2b_02.jpg

2b_03.jpg

topimage.jpg

axiss_02.jpgaxis_01.jpg

03.jpgstage03.jpg

Great post with lots of info - thanks heaps

I have been trying to contact alfino to buy the front lip, but have been getting no replies. Any ideas on how I can buy that product from Australia. Is there any-one you know who can source from them and arrange delivery to Oz.

Great post with lots of info - thanks heaps

I have been trying to contact alfino to buy the front lip, but have been getting no replies. Any ideas on how I can buy that product from Australia. Is there any-one you know who can source from them and arrange delivery to Oz.

Yes.

On this forum, try Import Monster OR click on the RMS Motor Parts.

Both can source them, although you may have to point them to the supplier's website.

Also, RHD Japan and Nengun can do it (just send them an email detailing the part you want if you can't find it on their site).

Good luck.

Edited by iamhe77

Steering wheel controls are a plug and play affair. You need to take apart the steering wheel but the wiring is already there. This includes single DIN units - BUT!! the controls only work with Double DIN stereos like in the ARX. They will not work with single DIN stereos which have a compartment or guages next to the stereo.

steerwheel.jpg

Steering wheel controls are a plug and play affair. You need to take apart the steering wheel but the wiring is already there. This includes single DIN units - BUT!! the controls only work with Double DIN stereos like in the ARX. They will not work with single DIN stereos which have a compartment or guages next to the stereo.

steerwheel.jpg

That's a bummer. :)

But I am sure you will find some one on here who needs the steering wheel controls.

Looks like the IPhone is up and running........ looks good. :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...