Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

When these turbos let go , is it major and the car is undrivable or can you drive it home or to your prefered w/shop ?

cheers , Lindzz

I drove mine for over 150kms no worries, although I did keep it under 2500rpm.

I believe that Jetwreck drove his from Melbourne to Sydney when his turbo let go!

They are certainly "drivable", but it is a damn slow drive.

Drove mine to R E Customs today for "turbo out" - cruised at 80 - 90 on Eastlink no worries but took a while to get to this speed - sounds awful too......

Cam, i presume the Victorian 2 are yours and mine?

Once Turbo is out i will inspect at ATP (Advanced Turbo Performance) and talk over my options.

Drove mine to R E Customs today for "turbo out" - cruised at 80 - 90 on Eastlink no worries but took a while to get to this speed - sounds awful too......

Cam, i presume the Victorian 2 are yours and mine?

Once Turbo is out i will inspect at ATP (Advanced Turbo Performance) and talk over my options.

Indeed they are Jase.

Will be interested to hear what Kip has to say (relying on my memory to remember a name from 15months ago)

Hi,

Could someone please tell me what the ARX has in terms of diffs? I want to change the oil in them using Redline Shockproof Heavyweight, is this a good option? Or what is the part number for the nissan genuine diff oil.

Is there a front diff and rear diff? Or only a central diff?

How much L does/do they hold?

Also, is anyone willing to send me copies of the latest nissan fast? $15 dollars is yours if you can.

Cheers.

  • 1 month later...

any news with this GPS english version?? Im interested! but my Screen does not work....I think there is a plug missing from the Screen to the DVD unit (small connector plug comes from the loom out of the screen is not there...)

Is there any other way to get this working yet?

cheers

michael

I have a touch screen version in process currently using the OEM screen and I'm trialing it before I do a public release.

as for the original system translation - nup do not see that happening anytime soon.

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

FYI for all M35 owners:

ATTESA E-TS system is normally 0:100, but can split up to 50:50. SYNC mode is constant 20:80, but can also do 50:50. SNOW mode appears to be 50:50, but hard to tell, but it does NOT start in 2nd gear. Im guessing that there is a boost limit.

ATF 'D' is reccomended, 1.8L is required to fill the system.

Diffs require 1.4L each, and factory weight is 80W-90.

Engine requires 4.8L to the H mark, 4.0L to the L mark. factory weight is 5W-30. 10,000km/1 year is the required change period.

Factory boost is 12-12.8psi.

I would agree that is where the boost stabilizes to but I still claim to see 14psi on the initial application of throttle. I may have to go to the dyno to prove this.

So the ARX does have more boost than the RS-RX...... LOL.

Edited by andy65b

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...