M35 Info

[bigkevracer]

What about Royal Purple and that Neo stuff Craig uses?

[iamhe77]

Have never gotten a solid answer regarding NEO.. from the website or from the supplier for base stocks or additives.

I've heard conflicting reports so am steering clear.

Royal Purple, XPR while expensive is very good but it is there new HPS product that I am more interested in (need more research there too!)

[slippylotion]

IMO any semi or fully synthetic oil of either a 5w-30 or 10w-40 or there abouts, will be more than up to the job for our cars driven daily when being oil changed every 5000kms. Im going to run a 10w-40 in mine as I dont see the point of over thinking the oil for a daily driven car with stock or mildly modified engines.

In my 180sx I run oil at no more than $50 a bottle, I always buy a few bottles when its on special so probably getting a $60-70 bottle for that price. The engine is fine even after a few drift track days and its making 270rwkw and revs to 7700rpm. Ive tried Castrol Edge, Motul turbo light, Shell Helix and Nulon. The Nulon I wouldnt run again as the engine did sound a little louder in the top end.

Just change it every 5000kms as you should in turbo cars.

Oh, and dont forget changing the filter at the same time!

Edited July 8, 2011 by slippylotion

[wht510]

Interesting. For my SR20DET for race applications, I was told to run a fully synthetic 10W-60 or 20W-60.

For serious abuse I was told an oil change and filter before each race application.

I agree with the 10W-40 comment though. For a daily driver a semi-synth of a reasonable quality with a reasonably high percentage of Zinc (ZDPT I think it's called??) should be fine.

I change my Stag every 7500K's with a new filter.

[iamhe77]

Not "any" oil will be up to the task although I do understand what you are saying.

I have tried a lot of different oils over the past 4+ (5+?) years in my M35 and can tell you that they are not all up to the task.

I used to change every 5,000kms regardless of oil because I listened to too many other turbo owners who did so because "that's what you do".

Did the maths and worked out that a high end quality oil and filter combo for 10,000kms is as cost efficient as using a good semi and provides better protection/cleaning for the duration between changes (plus I don't have to get under the car as often).

I guess it is completely up to the individual owner in the end, but I can't understand for the life of me why people skimp on the quality of oil they put in their car. Not saying that $200 oil changes are 100% necessary, but a very high quality oil over a longer period will always be better than an average oil changed more frequently.

[slippylotion]

Interesting. For my SR20DET for race applications, I was told to run a fully synthetic 10W-60 or 20W-60.

For serious abuse I was told an oil change and filter before each race application.

I agree with the 10W-40 comment though. For a daily driver a semi-synth of a reasonable quality with a reasonably high percentage of Zinc (ZDPT I think it's called??) should be fine.

I change my Stag every 7500K's with a new filter.

Yeah, I also changed oil before and after hitting track as it see's some pretty high temps that you will not see driven daily.

After all if Nissan use a 7.5w-30 semi synthetic oil it cant be all that bad as Im sure the Nissan engineers know a bit more than us!

I find a 10w-40 is good for the hotter summers we have here and our winters arent as cold either.

[bigkevracer]

I don't know if its always a matter of skimping on oil Cam, but some people (me included) genuinely don't understand or can tell the difference between oils.

I don't understand the difference between a $50 group IV oil and a $200 group IV oil. They're both the same grade, so they should be the same quality, it's just price that is difference (those prices are just an example...).

Not sure if I'd ever run my car for 10,000 ks between changes though. I'd rather put a decent oil and filter in every 5,000ks, even if it costs ~$130 a shot. Simple insurance! Always changed my cars at 5,000ks, turbo or not.

[wht510]

Also with filters, they only start to become 'efficient' when the are approximately 60-80% full of crap. I have a colleague who worked at Ryco. He was saying if you change the filter every 10,000k's instead of 5,000k's for a daily driver, you actually are better of in terms of particulate capture. I still change mine at 7K for the Stag and 5K for the Datto.

[iamhe77]

Ryan, where have you seen a $200 group IV oil?

Redline and Motul are both Group V oils if they are what you are referencing.

As I said, it is more what you are comfortable with, but regardless of 5000, 7500 or 10000km changes, a good quality oil should used.

I'm not saying only use 300v or Redline or Sougi or whatever, but poor performing oils are just that.

By all means, try some different oils with the same filter... you should be able to "feel" the difference.

Oh, I knew nothing about oils (or in general lol) prior to owning my M35... but damn do I do a lot of reading!

[bigkevracer]

My point was just in my mind, with my lack of knowledge of oil, all group IV oils should give me the same performance, and all group V oils should be the same. Surely if they all meet a standard they should all be good enough quality?

[wht510]

One other thing I'm very interested in is the amount of ZDDP (Zinc) as an additive in oils. As the oils start to progress further to meeting tougher regulations such as API SM and API SN, the amount of zinc starts to decrease. Sometimes you are better of buying an older type of oil which is less environmentally friendly, but better for your engine.....

(copied from the Penrite website:

Zinc Dialkyl DithioPhosphate, also referred to as ZDDP or the "zinc" in an oil, is a chemical compound which is a very effective anti-wear agent. For this reason, when ZDDP levels were lowered in oils to meet the latest specifications in some new vehicles, it caused worldwide panic, as older vehicles manufactured pre-2006 needed the high levels of zinc (especially preferred and required by pre-1970s vehicle owners). For futher details on ZDDP and oils in the Penrite range which have lower zinc levels ( Enviro+ range), please refer to Technical Bulletins 85,128,129,137 and 149.)

[iamhe77]

My point was just in my mind, with my lack of knowledge of oil, all group IV oils should give me the same performance, and all group V oils should be the same. Surely if they all meet a standard they should all be good enough quality?

Nah, that's like saying that all turbo sixes should give the same performance.

Different base stocks, different manufacturing processes, different QC and different additives...

It really is a near bottomless pit of researching and wading through conflicting info, paid opinions, marketing and what-not *sigh*

Makes me tired just thinking about it

But if you want somewhere to start....

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil

[bigkevracer]

That makes a lot more sense now Cam. I thought 'grade' referred to quality, like gold medal standard for wines.

Didn't realise it referred to the base materials. More category V than grade V.

You still find those people who swear by their mineral oils and blends, ULX 110 has always been one in particular that has interested me. They make some bold claims.

[donutdavid]

The oil info that everyone posted is very usefull but its still individuals decision based on what you read and how much you want to spend and more importantly how the car feels after the oil change, but please lets not get caried away trying to prove who is right and who wrong.

Anyway, can some one tell me if there is a way of adjusting drivers electric seat as it rocks a bit every time I come to stop and its sort of anoying

Also what does little button near auto shifter do sinchro/snow and should I use it or keep an eye so its always off??

Cheers

Dave

[jidge]

Nah, that's like saying that all turbo sixes should give the same performance.

Different base stocks, different manufacturing processes, different QC and different additives...

It really is a near bottomless pit of researching and wading through conflicting info, paid opinions, marketing and what-not *sigh*

Makes me tired just thinking about it

But if you want somewhere to start....

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil

You'd think choosing an oil wouldn't be so difficult, however it seems that choice of oil has the possibly broadest range of opinions of all.

so Iamhe, after 5 years of trying different oils have you settled on one or still are you still experimenting?

[zei20l]

Anyway, can some one tell me if there is a way of adjusting drivers electric seat as it rocks a bit every time I come to stop and its sort of anoying

mine does it too. i think its the play in the motors or something. i agree with it being annoying

[bigkevracer]

The oil info that everyone posted is very usefull but its still individuals decision based on what you read and how much you want to spend and more importantly how the car feels after the oil change, but please lets not get caried away trying to prove who is right and who wrong.

Of course it's the individuals decision, but I learnt something from Cam that might influence my future choice. Not sure if people where trying to prove right and wrong?

Also what does little button near auto shifter do sinchro/snow and should I use it or keep an eye so its always off??

Locks the diffs for off road/snow, gives you 50/50 torque (or usually does in other cars, is it 50/50 in the M35?). I know if I hit it I instantly see torque being fed to the front wheels on my torque gauge.

[impul535w]

Q: does the rear wiper on the M35 take a special blade? Is there a trick to getting it out?

Mike.

[Sunkist]

it doesnt take a special.

but when installing the new one bend the new blade a little so it moulds to the window. no one does this and the top part of the window never gets cleaned. scotts confused at how well mine works(now)

it comes out the same way the fronts would. just pull it out of the groove and slide the blade out.

[impul535w]

it doesnt take a special.

but when installing the new one bend the new blade a little so it moulds to the window. no one does this and the top part of the window never gets cleaned. scotts confused at how well mine works(now)

it comes out the same way the fronts would. just pull it out of the groove and slide the blade out.

Cool. Thanks for that. It seems quite stiff and as there was no locking clips I didn't want to rip it out and break it unintentionally