Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK back on track.

Apparently my Power steering rack is weeping oil from the pinion seal.

I found this on some site:

Yes, you can replace just the "boots" on the end of a rack-and-pinion steering provided that the mechanism is not damaged. Unfortunately, the boot is just a dust cover and if the inner mechanism has started leaking there really isn't much that can be done without completely disassembling the mechanism. The fluid in a rack assembly is under pressure from the power steering pump and once it starts leaking the rack is pretty much "done".

Is this true?

Iain do u still have the steering rack from the wreck? does it really matter? I can see the fluids are a little low but I can just top it up I suppose..

yeah i have it, but at the moment its being used in a jig

as for people looking for M35 stuff, there is an entire forum for this exact thing. we have just been a little lax in creating the FAQs. but its there if you want to browse or add info to it

yeah i have it, but at the moment its being used in a jig

as for people looking for M35 stuff, there is an entire forum for this exact thing. we have just been a little lax in creating the FAQs. but its there if you want to browse or add info to it

That forum is good, but there's information on here that isn't on there and vice versa. it's just another forum to visit...

OK back on track.

Apparently my Power steering rack is weeping oil from the pinion seal.

I found this on some site:

Is this true?

Iain do u still have the steering rack from the wreck? does it really matter? I can see the fluids are a little low but I can just top it up I suppose..

Not to keep it too on topic with M35 info; but you've just reminded me that we noticed this on my car a couple of months ago - and it was no worse many weeks after that iniital spotting (when we did my sway bars). A very slow weep. Fluid levels are still fine also. Would be interested to know the verdict on how much a new rack might fetch. Theres been a few M35s wrecked in the country, and several brought in for parting out - and yet we're still not seeing an abundance of parts avaliable >_<

Does anyone on here have the 3 nismo gauges that are in the center console in white???

Mike.

Dunc does if you want to check them out on a local car.

Like Josh said, they're pretty easy to get on IM. Always a set there.

Cheers guys, i already have a set but as i have a Nismo dash i would love a set of white gauges to match :D

You could always get Jesse to get a price off Nissan Japan/Nismo?

Part number is 24845-RNM50-W and I think they used to be around 23,000yen

Here's a handy little Nismo parts page :)

http://hirano-tire.com/brand/nismo/paji272.htm

OR even better, just for to http://hirano-tire.com, click on "Search by logo"... and kiss your afternoon goodbye :banana:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...