Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I'm back in the Stagea game, have been away far too long. Moved to WA for a job i couldn't knock back. Have had two Series 2 C34's in the past, and have made the jump to the M35. I wanted the comfort as I drive upwards of an hour each day on a very long straight road... The X-trail I bought has as much balls as a newborn. So I needed something with a bit of power.

Here is a photo of the Stag...Currently getting repairs in Japland as some douche damaged in inbetween the auction yard and shipping yard. Luckily they took responsibility and Ben from j-spec is chasing it up for me.

08.jpg

01.jpg

Have a few things planned for the car already. Cloth interior, has the tv, hopefully it has cruise control?

Nope - no cruise control. They have a different Grill - with a radar thingo on it- someone correct me ifd i'm wrong !

BUT - being sneaky - I can see you have a cargo net in there- 1st pic in thru the back window, its mounted up on the roof lining! Good part to have- about $400 from Nissan!

Welcome to M35 ownership!

Don't know if this link will work, but:

http://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?hl=en&rurl=translate.google.com&sl=ru&tl=en&twu=1&u=http://www.megazip.ru/ru/auto/nissan/view/41/51/1901/58621&usg=ALkJrhjSNEMtWOPWbuFbppaBt1897nQJdw

Can I remove "21082C" from part "21082".. The nuts that hold on the mount for the radiator fan? Can I remove the entire fan without screwing up any engine timing and stuff?

the engine timing is ALL electronic.

did you undo the 4 small nuts to get the fan off? if you need to turn it, loosen a belt, or just turn the motor with a socket and breaker bar from the larger wheel at the bottom. make sure the transmission is in neutral.

ok and after looking at that diagram, yes it all comes apart. just make sure you do it all up properly. the bit the fan is bolted to is a clutch that expands as the water temp goes up thus turning the fan faster.

Awesome, thanks mate. Radiator is IN. Fricking marathon effort I tell ya.

I have read it somewhere before, but on the standard radiator, which of the holes for the Transmission "cooler" is in and which is out?

Tried following them back to the transmission but can't see shit.

Guess I could start the car up but it's kind of in bits at the moment..

i would say its bidirectional :) as long as the fluid is passing through the radiator its gonna be heated whichever direction it flows.

however, i THINK one of the pipes is slightly larger than the other. but dont quote me on that. that may have been one of my aftermarket hoses

Quick Question- To those with Transmission coolers, what size are the fittings- 3/8's or 5/16ths?

Looking to get one to cope with Transgo, and the turbo kit- prob just go the Repco PWR unit. 28cm x 15cm

So I'm back in the Stagea game, have been away far too long. Moved to WA for a job i couldn't knock back. Have had two Series 2 C34's in the past, and have made the jump to the M35. I wanted the comfort as I drive upwards of an hour each day on a very long straight road... The X-trail I bought has as much balls as a newborn. So I needed something with a bit of power.

Here is a photo of the Stag...Currently getting repairs in Japland as some douche damaged in inbetween the auction yard and shipping yard. Luckily they took responsibility and Ben from j-spec is chasing it up for me.

08.jpg

01.jpg

Have a few things planned for the car already. Cloth interior, has the tv, hopefully it has cruise control?

Hmm is that a stock car with aero front bar?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...