Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

there are a few options to be able to do burnouts

1. sell your stagea and get a commodore

2. grow up and dont try to do burnouts in car designed for AWD

+1

commodores are not my friend, chocolate is!

I'm too old to grow up, and I am quite iresponsible

My car is RWD

oh and I'm a drifter, D1NZ

LOL @ discipline fail

Haha

So is there any use asking for tech help on this forum. or is this an anti-fun forum.

Plans are to do suspension, shocks and springs, swaybars, nolathane bushes and brakes.

What I want is the car to be able to do a skid if I want to, it will not be a drifter, I have a race car or two for that, it's my daily after my C34 tow car got worn out.

Me at a Drift Demo

Me at our local track, practice

Not anti fun at all, most of us love skids. But skids and speed off the streets. Most of us live in areas that imports are pretty heavily targeted by the authorities, and as a community we want to promote off street activities. Search YouTube for some SAU texi vids for and example.

So when you just ask how to do skids, don't be suprised by the response! Most people reserve skids for kids with flat caps in commos.

So, to the car. If you bought a 2.5 or 3.0 and trying to do skids, your a derp. If you bought a 3.5 then you have some options. You can go down the NA bolt on route. Exhaust, plenum spacer, z tube, maybe a tune if your rich. That might get you to skidville. Other options are turbo or supercharger kits.

Best thing you could really do with a rwd, is a manual conversion. Just do it from a manual v35 wreck. Skids would be much easier, and more fun to drive.

Don't worry about the brake wire cut, in NA cars it doesn't exist.

Cheers Stagea Cuz.

Off the 'skids' topic for a sec, does anyone have any advice on the most appropriate place to fit a sender for a transmission temp gauge?

Looking at the box, theres two possibilities I could see:

One at the back just above the sump

ec8c9d0e.jpg

And another on the side near the lines to the radiator, but it might be a bit close to the front propshaft depending on how big the sender is

da555f0d.jpg

Anyone fit one before that could tell me which is the best spot?

I'm just doing an inline one, brass bspt barbed air fittings for the trans hose and 1/8 bspt for the sender thread. I only plan to monitor the trans temps, but the other inline sender for the new -12 engine oil cooler lines will control the thermo fan. (its mounted right behind the engine oil cooler.) I will get some pics when I re-install the engine.

I think I've seen them mounted in the side of the pan. Can't quite picture the locations you've supplied, but I'd be wary because the valve body sits pretty snug in there. Better of in the pan of fluid I would have thought.

I think I've seen them mounted in the side of the pan. Can't quite picture the locations you've supplied, but I'd be wary because the valve body sits pretty snug in there. Better of in the pan of fluid I would have thought.

That would be my choice; weld or braze a bung in to the pan.

The other thing; I wouldn't be surprised to find a spring & detent ball behind one of those bolts...

Edited by Daleo

Haha

So is there any use asking for tech help on this forum. or is this an anti-fun forum.

Plans are to do suspension, shocks and springs, swaybars, nolathane bushes and brakes.

Welcome Darren. Nice vids btw.

Don't worry, you'll get plenty of tech help here (& on itsnotavolvo.com.au) & a small amount of ribbing occassionally, as you've seen. It's all in fun & (mostly) everyone on here are good blokes with heaps of knowledge between them. Being mainly family guys &, ermm, responsible types, you will never hardly ever hear us talk about driving illegally. It's what sets us apart from the others :)

the only worry i have about the sender sitting on the side of the pan is ground clearance - my car is stupidly low at the moment :/

last thing i want is the sender getting torn out while my wife negotiates an Everest sized speed hump & leaving a trail of gearbox fluid all over the street where it doesnt belong...

the only worry i have about the sender sitting on the side of the pan is ground clearance - my car is stupidly low at the moment :/

last thing i want is the sender getting torn out while my wife negotiates an Everest sized speed hump & leaving a trail of gearbox fluid all over the street where it doesnt belong...

If you're worried about that; you (I) could roll a piece of sheet steel as a shield around the underside of the bung & sensor & weld on to the pan.

I don't think it would be an issue TBH; Jetwreck would be able to tell you if he's ever seen a pan with gouges or dents, mine didn't even have a stone chip in the paint.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you panel beat the dents or have you tried to repair this only using filler?  Is your sanding block soft/flexible and is following the shape of the panel rather then just knocking down the high points? 
    • I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.  
    • Yeah makes sense, hard to comment on your situation without seeing what your doing. I was talking generally before, I would not be looking to randomly create low spots with a hammer to then have to fill them.  It's hard without seeing what your doing, it sounds like you are using the guide coat to identify low spots, as you're saying the panel is still wavy. I don't see how you're not ending up with patches of guide coat remaining in a wavy panel? Once the high spots are knocked down to the correct level, surely to have a wavy panel you need low spots. And those low spots would have guide coat still in them?
    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
×
×
  • Create New...