Jump to content
SAU Community

M35 Info

Brazen

By Brazen,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Sunkist Grand Master

Sunkist

Posted
Posted

Only if you cut the bracing under the bonnet, it's alloy too remember.

You should design one that goes to the firwall and bolts up there before meeting back at the other tower. Sort of like the accord ones

  • Replies 2.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

nickcorr
nickcorr

Skyline Registrations in Japan: Bodystyle/Engine 3.7 Coupe 2.5 Sedan 3.5 Sedan 3.7 Sedan 3.7 SUV________Total Market cars... 09_____________983_______3,398______20_______860_____1,601_________

andy65b
andy65b

Not a bad result..

And
And

Ok, guys from Moscow approached me today. They have a "demo" version ready, now they need a brave person in Perth who's got a car DVD based Xanai unit (M35 Stagea or Skyline up to 2005). This gotta

Posted Images

  • 2 weeks later...
stagman Community Regular

stagman

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

Bit of an issue with my M35. I have recently installed a shift kit and plenum spacer. After instaliing the shift kit... No problems. Car is working as advertised...although a very loud thud when kicking down gears around 100kmh's.

However, after instaling the plenum spacer, the car's idle is very rough. It jumps and drops about 100rpm and the car shakes a fair bit. Has anyone else had this problem? Yesterday it managed to throw a ECL however I could not get the code from it. Trying to count the flashes just about caused an epileptic shock... So i reset it and the light has gone.

Any ideas?

iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted

Sounds like an air leak to me. Certainly not something you should be experiencing after installing the phenolic spacer.

I did experience a bit of "hunting" (+/- 50rpm) when idling, but that was when I had the alloy spacer in there. None of this with the phenolic spacer.

stagman Community Regular

stagman

Posted
Posted

I have the same issue. I'm thinking it must be a vac line somewhere.

Yeah, I thought the same and i did have a cracked vac line running from the intake to the solenoid that i broke. However replaced that vac line and still have the same problem. I am starting to think i didnt do a bolt or something to the correct torque (19nm?) so I will go back and tighten everything up and see if i can further trouble shoot this problem.

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

It doesn't need to be too tight, as a warning. From some instructions I've got for a VQ35de, the torque that the lower collector should be torqued down with is equililant to what you would get with one of those screwdriver socket thingos. Just hand held, not even a ratchet or anything. Don't strip the threads.

I'd keep looking for a loose line, one car I know used to blow them off when using aerostart. However, it could also be a folded over gasket or something really simple like that.

Another trick with intake leaks is to spray some brake cleaner or something round the joints in the manifold to see if that effects the idle- if it does, you have a leak.

  • 2 weeks later...
impul535w Community Regular

impul535w

Posted
Posted

Q: Everynow and then I get this fully feel in the brake peddle, it's like it fights me when I put my foot down and have to put quite hard in order for it to stop quickly... Any thoughts people. I thought it may be a pad/rotor issue but as I have replaced both I'm back to square one.

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted (edited)

Q: Everynow and then I get this fully feel in the brake peddle, it's like it fights me when I put my foot down and have to put quite hard in order for it to stop quickly... Any thoughts people. I thought it may be a pad/rotor issue but as I have replaced both I'm back to square one.

You might have siezed/bent caliper pins; or a sicking piston in a caliper.

Caliper pins can cause all sorts of odd brake issues.

Edited by Daleo
impul535w Community Regular

impul535w

Posted
Posted

You might have siezed/bent caliper pins; or a sicking piston in a caliper.

Caliper pins can cause all sorts of odd brake issues.

How would one check these parts?

Also what is funny is that it only seems to do it once when first driving it, after that it seems ok...

0t1 Contributor

0t1

Posted
Posted

How would one check these parts?

Also what is funny is that it only seems to do it once when first driving it, after that it seems ok...

Sounds like something is heating up and expanding to seal the leak.

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

How would one check these parts?

Also what is funny is that it only seems to do it once when first driving it, after that it seems ok...

Jack up/ jack stand- remove wheel, remove brake pads, inspect piston, make sure it goes in and out and shit. Look at the pins, make sure they are straight and I think they should have a little grease on em.

Could be a suspect master cylinder seal as well.

impul535w Community Regular

impul535w

Posted
Posted

Jack up/ jack stand- remove wheel, remove brake pads, inspect piston, make sure it goes in and out and shit. Look at the pins, make sure they are straight and I think they should have a little grease on em.

Could be a suspect master cylinder seal as well.

This may sounds funny but how would one get the piston to come out? Just put my foot on the brake with the pads out and caliper off?

Also one thing I did notice was that the brake fluid resivour was full, way full, up to the neck. Would this be an issue?

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

yeah, you don't really want to piston to come out the full way. I haven't done the rear pads yet so haven't looked at them, but sometimes the rear pistons are slotted and have to be turned to retract back into the housing, sometimes they just slide so you can use a G Clamp.

So take them off, and inspect the slide pins, pads and piston. Then make sure you empty out some brake fluid from the reservoir, just down to the minimum line, before you try to get the piston back in. If it has groves, it will spin- someone should jump in and confirm if it does. So turn it in a little way- this will force fluid back into the reservoir. Check the level, and add new fluid if needed. re-assemble, start car and let it idle, then pump up the brake pedal and make sure the piston comes back out and clamps, and you have effective braking- at least then you know that end is good.

Its a bit funny that the fluid is right up the the neck. Usually fluid drops as the pads are being worn, and the pistons push further out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      New lightweight, square wheel/tyre combo for the E90

      By PranK · Posted

      Ok cool, because I do have some OEM BMW options for light(er) wheels. 17x8.5 M Sport wheels are 11kg and I could put 255's on them. Maybe that's an initial test.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      So, in the effort of pulling apart airboxes and testing enclosures to see if this aids in MAP loss at WOT I noticed: 1) The ducts up the OEM intercooler holes from the front bar help IAT drastically, whether the pod is shielded from the engine bay by an airbox missing a lid, or an airbox WITH a lid. Plus you get more induction sound without the lid. Having half the airbox (with no lid) acting as a barrier to the headers seems to help. 2) For shits and giggles I checked the TB. This was full pedal travel. This is actually full travel of the TB. Photos aren't perfect, but there was definitely an amount of play in it and it wasn't against the stop. After much swearing and adjusting the pedal, I realised that the cable is actually too long for the skyline pedal travel to fully articulate it. Having the pedal adjusted so WOT was actually hard open on WOT resulted in an idle of 3500rpm. As an aside, this was also the TPS registering at 3.1%. I removed the above to give the pedal enough travel to actually fully open the TB. I now get a satisfying 'thonk' on full open and full closed which you can hear pumping the pedal as it hits the TB stops (with the bonnet open and intake back on). Luckily for me, the screw screws into a raised metal boss under this plastic piece that is now acting as the new throttle stop. I've gained about 20mm (ish) of pedal travel and I can move it maybe a mm or two post open-thonk before it's hard against the stop. After all of this I did a bit of road tuning because a 102MM throttle is sensitive. The difference between holding an 950rpm idle and instantly stalling is about 0.4% of TPS movement. Will that help? I suppose it can't hurt. I set 'closed' point back to where it was, I can definitely feel the extra pedal travel that is needed to actually open the TB fully. But this morning I dropped the car off at Paint Jail again, so who knows when this will re-eventuate out to see if it helps with the top of the dyno hitting a ceiling.
    • Kinkstaah
      Looking for someone with a R34 front bar

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Take heart that everyone else seems to have found a way. The OEM S1 indicators do slot in pretty firmly. It may simply be a case of having them sit slightly looser and nobody actually ever noticed this when attempting to remove a indicator from a JSAI bar :p
    • GTSBoy
      34 de+t conversion using s2 stagea automatic transmission, engine harness and ecu

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If the original NA ECU has a separate TCU then you are going to need to reroute wires that used to run between the trans and the TCU to the appropriate (1 to 1 equivalent) pins on the ECU. Other than that, it should work. Look up posts by @Kinkstaah on the subject.
    • albyz34gt
      34 de+t conversion using s2 stagea automatic transmission, engine harness and ecu

      By albyz34gt · Posted

      So the stagea was a series 2 neo det with tiptronic auto. (I have the transmission aswell) and has integrated tcu in the ecu. I'm hoping to use the entire stagea ecu, engine and auto harness. 
×
×
  • Create New...