Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

This is a follow on from my previous post

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...hl=dissapointed

where I complained about my modded 33 being slack compared to a stock 300zx or soarer.

Once again these are my mods:

Turbo back 3" X-force exhaust

Cooling Pro Type 2 Front Mount

Silicone Inlet Pipe

Aftermarket actuator set for ~11/12 psi

Hitachi H8 chipped ECU. I purchased a custom tuned chip from Kubota, a Sydney based H8 tuner.

Enlarged snorkel to fit IC piping + Apexi panel filter

Front strut brace

Here are the dyno charts.

gallery_36384_11_46725.gif

gallery_36384_11_5367.jpg

I'm new to this modding game but the boost response looks nice to me.

Peak power is dissapointing though, and there's that dip at about 4K.

Kubota says the car should make close to 200rwkw, at least 190.

From the charts he suspects the air flow meter signal is bad, is there some way to test it?

I think I've spent enough money that I should be getting 200kw, suggestions are very welcome.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185669-33-low-dyno-power-suggestions/
Share on other sites

yeah man!! thats kinda Really low, maybe u should get a compression test or check for leaks on pipes??!!

maybe its the fuel your using???

erm i got 268RWHP = 200rwkw with just

stock engine,

stock turbo

GFB manual controller @ 10psi

Hkd Pod

3 n 1/2 stainless cat back

=)

personally i dont beleive dyno readings, they can vary far to much from dyno to dyno and its hard to set a benchmark for what hp you should be getting unless everyone goes on the same dyno on the same day. Dynos are just a tool used for tuning and i think a 1/4 mile time with MPH is a better indicator of its power.

After saying that though i just had a quick read through the old post and you mentioned it doesnt feel quick, so maybe it actually is down on the power.

Going off you boost curve, that looks good, not laggy at all and the stock turbo spooling up as it should. The airflue ratio is a bit over the place and for a "tuned" ecu it should be alot better than that. In saying that it does lean out in the higher rpm to 12.5afr which should produce a good amount of power (as you know too rich and you lose hp). So going off the dyno graph, boost looks good, top rpm afr looks good so the only other factor that could be affecting your power is timing. If the guy has retarded the timing alot to aid in a safe tune this will definately take a chunk off your hp and make the car feel unresponsive and slow. Its amazing what a few degrees of timing can do for an engine.

If it was me i would get the car retuned with some more timing and get the lower rpm afr fixed up, or stick in on another dyno and just do a power run and see what happens. I once got 200rwhp on 1 dyno, literally went down the street to another workshop, did a power run and got 270rwhp, nothing different so that why i dont trust dyno hp figures all that much.

cheers

Edited by R34GTFOUR

I'd be pulling the AFR's back closer to 12.0:1 and advancing your ignition timing.

Ignition timing is where the power is made.

Advancing it on those AFR's will cause Detionation.

Oh, and if the Rich and retard protection has been removed from the ECU - then push the boost to 12.5psi maybe 13psi.

MTQ Toowoomba is known to have a lazy dyno. Besides that, what Mafia says more ignition timing. Also maybe the fuel pump is on the way out with afr's tapering up like like that.

You can get a multimeter, battery and fan then measure voltage with no fan and you should get no voltage reading or very little and try with the fan blowing through it the and the voltage should substantially increase.

If you live in town I can give you my standard afm, I know it works :D .

Edited by BAMR33

Thanks for the feedback guys.

I forgot to mention, I had the base timing checked and adjusted before the dyno.

It was on 20 degrees and the shop adjusted it back to 15 as it should be stock.

The tuner actually recommended I do this before using his chip.

I was thinking a new fuel pump might be in order.

However it seems a lot of other guys have not needed it and I don't have the dosh to throw around right now.

I might take you up on a loan of your afm Brett, that would be sweet.

It doesn't matter that other guys haven't needed a new fuel pump. It's easy to forget that R33's are actually getting a little long in the tooth and so are their fuel pumps, amoung other things. Each car has a different life so yours could very well be on the way out. If your ECU is asking for a certain amount of fuel to be put in and the pump can't match it you can be in trouble.

Listen to Mafia as I'm pretty sure he knows what he's talking about. I don't have any experience with the Hitachi ECU's so I can't comment on that. Do you have a power figure with the standard ECU in and these mods? would be interesting to compare them. If they were similar then you may be better off running with a stock ecu and something like a SAFC. It may also suggest the ECU or tuning isn't the cause.

Don't forget the basics either, it's no point having heaps of mods to chase power if you haven't addressed things like old spark plugs, dirty air filters, dirty fuel filters, even oil and filter.

Edited by Fry_33
yeah man!! thats kinda Really low, maybe u should get a compression test or check for leaks on pipes??!!

maybe its the fuel your using???

erm i got 268RWHP = 200rwkw with just

stock engine,

stock turbo

GFB manual controller @ 10psi

Hkd Pod

3 n 1/2 stainless cat back

=)

Also got yourself a happy dyno by the sounds of it...

Also got yourself a happy dyno by the sounds of it...

LAWL nah, i got 12 dyno runs mate.. n lowest was 260RWHP, and also this guy fastens the car down :thumbsup: unlike my dynos b4 where they put blocks under front wheels =/

coz stock i was getting 208 rwhp different dyno '3 runs only'

:laughing-smiley-014:

The fuel could be a lot neater and actually should be turned upside down.

Leaner earlier on and then level out at about 12:1.

Either the tuner is pulling fuel up top to hang onto a little bit of power, or you are running out of fuel pump.

The tuner is tipping in a LOT of fuel as it ramps up, looks like he's VERY scared of pinging here.

He doesn't need to be that conservative.

Could pick up some fuel economy and some more torque down low from pulling lots of fuel here.

But timing is what makes power, not fuel. Pull as much fuel out as you can get away with, and wind in as much timing as you can get away with.

But with the fuel in this tune leaning out up top, I'd address this first.

Is the chip modded/tuned for ur specific car and mods? Or just a universal thing? If its a universal thing the results wont be much good. U need a tune thats specific to ur mods. I have a 34 turbo on a S2 25, 2 inch exhaust, FMIC and stock airbox running about 10 psi and it makes about that. Ditch the chip and get a remap.

Liam

Its not an auto is it?

Damn! Thats richer than my tune at low revs.

I agree with all the above check you fuel pump and timing.....also if your running a haltec you'd be able to ditch the AFM and run a MAP sensor which would solve your problem of a possible dodgy AFM

Is it just me or is any1 missing the point its an ECU CHIP not an aftermarket ECU... I would still like to know if its a generic RB25 chip or if it has been tuned specifially for this car with those specific mods. I sold a SAFC that had a tune for the mods I had at the time. No good for the next guy if he has more boost and/or bigger turbo and better injectors etc. Just a thought. Could explain it running so rich.

Liam

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
×
×
  • Create New...