Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How much are the shotpeened rods and ARP rod bolts costing?

Should have spent a few $$ more (if anything by the time you finish with them) and got a set of spool forged rods that come with rod bolts for $890 and then comfortable you can flick it to 8k with a set of good cams. Shotpeened rods you still can't rev to 8k safely.

You really should have listened to those who have been around the VL's etc for a long time. Shotpeened rods is a waste of time in the RB30's.

As spoolup says himself..

http://www.spoolimports.com/content/SPOOLRB30CONRODS.asp

YOU CAN NOT PREP A SET OF STD RODS FOR THIS PRICE BY THE TIME YOU HAVE ( RESIZED THE MAINS, REBUSHED THE SMALL END, SHOT PEENED AND LINISHED THEM, FITTED ARP ROD BOLTS AND BALANCED THEM - AND STILL THEY WONT HANDLE AS MUCH HP AS THESE )
  • Replies 137
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Its was $100 + Post for shot peened, linished and balanced rods and ARP bolts..

Because I wont be touching the head for a while now, Im not going to be taking to 8K. 7, mabey. I wont be producing much power/torque up that high just by doing the bottom end. So there isnt much point be going that high.

Im not interested in revving the chops off it to be make a large power figure, I want response and FAT torque and power band.

lmao.. well for that cost I'll most happily take my words back.. Thats a bargain.

Even still get some 265 duration cams and drop them in. Should work nice. Tighe cams do a 265 8.9mm lift GTR cam regrind for these that costs around $220 last i checked.

Hunt around u can find gtr cams for 60-100max.

lmao.. well for that cost I'll most happily take my words back.. Thats a bargain.

Even still get some 265 duration cams and drop them in. Should work nice. Tighe cams do a 265 8.9mm lift GTR cam regrind for these that costs around $220 last i checked.

Hunt around u can find gtr cams for 60-100max.

wouldn't you need to convert to solid lifters then?

lmao.. well for that cost I'll most happily take my words back.. Thats a bargain.

Even still get some 265 duration cams and drop them in. Should work nice. Tighe cams do a 265 8.9mm lift GTR cam regrind for these that costs around $220 last i checked.

Hunt around u can find gtr cams for 60-100max.

Mama didnt raise no fool :thumbsup:

It was an opportunity too good to pass up

Its not a bad price.. Ill have to do some overtime shifts.. and see if I can afford to drop those in too.. Cheers mate

Question still stands.. which pistons to use?

Hows the list looking? something I missed? Anything I dont need?

man - im starting to drool.....

im hopefully getting a r32 next yr and i was not sure on what to get - i think i might get a cheap 4 door n/a and do a 'cheap' rb30/25 hybrid (just the usual block, non vct head, highest cr pistons that are around - 25de i believe and some cams, exhaust and intake)

blow the socks off all my mates cars thats for sure....

sorry had missed your post on at the bottom of the first page.

Bottom End:

3L Bottom end ~ $150

Series 1 (thicker block walls + no oil turbo feed) (Non turbo – CR)

Acid Dipped/Cleaned? ~ $70

Balanced crank ~ $100

Bearings ~ $80 - Necessary?!?! Big end bearings AND mains? or just one set?

Decked block 2mm = ~10.5:1 CR

Con Rods

Shot Peened AWAITING

Rod Bolts (ARP) AWAITING

Lightened Flywheel

E-bay Flywheel ~$267 + Post

Oil Pump

Crank/oil pump collar ~$70

Rb25DET/Rb20DET?

Timing Belt ~$100

Headers – Group Buy $180 + $60post + Heat wrap $50

Oil Cooler ~$150 + Hoses OR E-bay Brisbane ~$300 Hektic Blue

Total: ~$1200

Should I use my current Rb25DE pistons?

Thoughts? comments on shopping list or pistons is muchly needed!

P.s Anyone have a lazy RB30E block laying around they want to get rid of?

overall list looks fine, like you mentioned block work while the motor is out. the head can be bolted off again later.

i'd would use the s2 block due to the oil squirters (someone confirm me, i am 99.99% sure)

would do the big and and the mains, while the block is out.

decked block would depend on pistons, i have no clue what compression RB30E's run

rods (shot peened) + bolts = fine

flywheel; can honestly be done at a later time unless you are also doing a clutch now?

oil pump + collar = definitely

timing belt = Gates brand; don't forget to re-locate the tensioners

headers, not vital can be done at a later stage (may have some block height clearance issues, 30mm?)

head gasket, not using one? make sure to get a thin one :thumbsup:

oil cooler, can be done at a later date.

check what the 25DE pistons give you, and check what the 30E pistons give you, also double check the forgies - if they are for a 25DET your compression might be too low. I wouldn't pass off on any yet until you get some solid calculations and numbers sorted.

overall the list looks fine, there are some parts i feel you can do without or can be bought after a majority of the motor has been built. no doubt some things will cost more than budgetted for.

the way i look at things is that there are 3 general areas; block, head and g/box. the head and g/box can be removed easily to get work done at a later date. the block is something that should be done first time and done right.

hope that helps? (it's early so forgive me for any errors)

i'd would use the s2 block due to the oil squirters (someone confirm me, i am 99.99% sure)

im 99.99% sure that no rb30e block came with squirters

the s2 block came with an oil feed spot due to holden wanting to go turbo - so nissan changed the casts slightly to accomodate that

im 99.99% sure that no rb30e block came with squirters

the s2 block came with an oil feed spot due to holden wanting to go turbo - so nissan changed the casts slightly to accomodate that

maybe it was the other way around? you might be correct, make that -99.99% sure :rolleyes:

Just a quick one for you, I finally got my RB30DE going last week...

We have over 86kW at the wheels at just over 3000rpm and 235Nm of torque. This is on a very very light run in tune, just need another 500kms or so of running in then back on the dyno for a full power tune.

I'll let you know in a couple of weeks what we manage to screw out of it...

Just a quick one for you, I finally got my RB30DE going last week...

We have over 86kW at the wheels at just over 3000rpm and 235Nm of torque. This is on a very very light run in tune, just need another 500kms or so of running in then back on the dyno for a full power tune.

I'll let you know in a couple of weeks what we manage to screw out of it...

Please do mate!

Im curious just to see what a 11:1 CR 3L and 2.5L VCT head will produce..

235Nm sounds pretty good @ 3000RPM!.. but 86KW is still about 30-35KW shy pf what Id like just with a 3L bottom end..

Im not aiming for a power figure.. cos thats just silly and pointless.. Its response Im lookin for..

Im thinking about using the turbo oil feed to feed the VCT and block off the turbo water feed..

Ill post another post within the next few days with more updates and photos of rods and bolts..

HOPEFULLY by the end of the yr it will be complete..

Edited by GTS4WD
Please do mate!

Im curious just to see what a 11:1 CR 3L and 2.5L VCT head will produce..

235Nm sounds pretty good @ 3000RPM!.. but 86KW is still about 30-35KW shy pf what Id like just with a 3L bottom end..

Im not aiming for a power figure.. cos thats just silly and pointless.. Its response Im lookin for..

Im thinking about using the turbo oil feed to feed the VCT and block off the turbo water feed..

Ill post another post within the next few days with more updates and photos of rods and bolts..

HOPEFULLY by the end of the yr it will be complete..

i just read on www.r31skylineclub.com that user GTS_143 (on here aswell) recorded a whopping 230rwhp or 171rwkw on a rb30/25 n/a built engine

here an exerpt:

In a thread posted by B.J here , GTS_143 hit a dyno comp yesterday I believe, (recieved a call from low_31_turbo last night).

He pulled 237.7rwhp / 177rwkw from his RB30DE, running 31 degrees advanced timing and 98octane pump fuel.

He didnt pop the bonnet before he got on the dyno, and when he did recieved some sAfrican Americans from the MC and the crowd, (something about "This wont take too long the car wont break 170hp")

Before too long shaun took up the first run and before the cams had time to kick in the dude doing the run backed off, Surprised by this Shaun asked why, and it was easily explained by the fact that the car had already run off the dyno sheet - as it had been set too low.

theres something to live up to and beat.....

i wonder how the RB30DE cost would compare to just dropping in a new-ish VQ35DE?

i've been thinking that lately, you're looking around $6K+ for a 6 speed.

wiring is a headache. there's so many control modules, bcm, ecu, blah blah for the VQ series to make it run stock. that's why there's not really any sort of aftermarket ECU (PFC style) for them.

that said, alot of guys in the states have done it.

you'd be looking at $10K+ just to get a stock VQ in there, unless you could do alot of the work yourself.

i've been thinking that lately, you're looking around $6K+ for a 6 speed.

wiring is a headache. there's so many control modules, bcm, ecu, blah blah for the VQ series to make it run stock. that's why there's not really any sort of aftermarket ECU (PFC style) for them.

After re-wiring dads R32 GTS-T To fit in an Rb25DET VVL from a R34 GTT.. I hope I never have to re-wire and engine again!..

Its such a rediculous amount of work!.. it took EASY twice as long as getting all the mechanicals working for it..

Edited by GTS4WD

Hay guys!..

A thought hit me!

Can I use all the Rb30 bottom end parts, rods, crank etc. etc. etc. in my Rb25DE block? Saves me from having to buy a front diff adaptor, relocate the pullies, timing belt, new bearings, harmonic balancer and having to re-drill the VCT oil feed?

I just need to know everything before I start ripping the car apart..

Thanks in advance guys!..

Rods and bolts should be arriving tomorow, will get pics up soon!..

Its possible but requires you to destroke the crank slightly, use the std rods and then grab a set of custom pistons to sort out the very much reduced pin height.

For any sort of increased power I would be looking at a set of forged rods as the the rod side loading will be increased due to the long stroke short rod setup. So not all that crash hot for bore wear in theory BUT it does seem to work ok.

So not really a cheap exercise but it has been done in a 26 block by Willall Racing here in SA.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...