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I just looked at the torque figure - holy farken shit

You're making 670nm at 230rwkw at the same RPM as me.

I'm making 702nm at 300rwkw at the same RPm...

so at 300rwkw you'll make probably 150nm+ more!

going to be a f**ken monster. Goodbye tyres! ahaha

Was devastated we didn't get to wind it up... can't wait to finish it off :)

RPM Scale - This is a guide only and was done as an rpm vs road speed from the tacho.

Tuning was by no means finished, even on minimum boost, due to severe boost leaks :(

When its all finished i would love to see his dyno sheet overwritten on my RB20 graph from when we compared my RB20 with TD06 against Phils RB20 with HKS GT-RS. It looks to be making about double what i make at 3,000rpm and the little 20 doesnt catch it until 4,700rpm :thumbsup:

Hm...should i throw away the RB26 bottom end? When you get it all sorted Leigh i woudl kill to be taken for a drive in it :whistling:

Mafia,

Here's a friends old mainline dyno sheet. The car was running an XR6T turbo 1.06 rear, rb30det.

Inlet/exhaust manifolds all standard.

I believe rev cut was at 7000rpm.

Dyno roadsped appears different so no doubt a torque comparison is out of wack. :thumbsup:

Why don't dyno operators just leave it as a set value so we can all compare easily. :whistling:

----

Where does it make its 13psi? ~3k?

post-382-1190640729_thumb.jpg

yeah roy no worries i will take u for a spin... as soon as the silicon joiners come in i will be going up to get it re tuned.. so i will keep you posted..

oh does any1 have a spare rb30 bottom end in good condition.. haha just preparing for when this one goes BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOM!!! hahaha

when i go to wind up the boost how far do you guys think i should go?? i want it a little reliable i dont want to be going through bottom ends every month... i was thinking round 17-18 psi???

Sky30's 320,000+ km RB30 held 380rwkw and prior to that 312rwkw without problems for quite some time.

Providing you don't rev it past 7k on its stock rods, motor is in good nick and tuned well it will be fine.

Rbman's currently has his stock rb30 bottom end reving to 7.3k as its holding power well to that rpm; doesn't appear to be having issues.

I have my limiter at 7k; still haven't quite got the hang of keeping it off the limiter in first and second. I recently gave the subframe 12mm rake which has improved weight transfer 2x; I can now feel the arse end slightly sitting down instead of what felt like lifting up and spinning with very little forward movement.

Go 18-20 pounds; you do have lower than 8:1 static comp so it will be fine on pulp. :D

I just looked at the torque figure - holy farken shit

You're making 670nm at 230rwkw at the same RPM as me.

I'm making 702nm at 300rwkw at the same RPm...

so at 300rwkw you'll make probably 150nm+ more!

Checking your dyno sheet, it appears that they both make approximately the same/very similar torque (and therefore power) at 115km/h.

Then the higher boosted 25 makes and holds a higher figure to generate the power recorded. Makes sense really, with power being a function of torque and rpm. Wait until this 30 gets fed a bigger mass (via boost) and hopefully gets some bump sticks that allow it to breathe more effectively. Even if rpm is governed to less than 7k, it will make some pretty good grunt.

If the current peak power rpm @ ~5300 is anything of an indicator, the torque will be stupendous.

Dyno roadsped appears different so no doubt a torque comparison is out of wack. :(

Why don't dyno operators just leave it as a set value so we can all compare easily. :(

What's the difference attributable to? Hasty setup and calibration by the operator, or some real difference in gearing ie. tyres, final drive or gear ratios? If it's a 32 chassis, is it still running a 25DE spec final drive?

Some times it's very good to review the graphs using both engine and road speed. I have an old chart from my bike being dynoed through the gears, before/after final drive alterations. The amount of extra grunt hitting the road in any gear, at any sane speed was significant. :(

What's the difference attributable to? Hasty setup and calibration by the operator, or some real difference in gearing ie. tyres, final drive or gear ratios? If it's a 32 chassis, is it still running a 25DE spec final drive?

Some times it's very good to review the graphs using both engine and road speed. I have an old chart from my bike being dynoed through the gears, before/after final drive alterations. The amount of extra grunt hitting the road in any gear, at any sane speed was significant. :(

Its an R32 chassis.. Setup by the operator is what the problem is.

Mine making its peak power at 6k with basically the same turbo is starting to make me think getting a little head work and port matching done is most definitely worth its while. Can't wait to get the lumpy 805c grinds in to it. :(

...wow was lucky enough to have a ride in this weapon yesterday, the torque is absolutely unbelievable. Having basically no traction till 4th is definitely a thrill too. Congratulations Leigh, absolutely siked for you!

Go 18-20 pounds; you do have lower than 8:1 static comp so it will be fine on pulp.

18-20 pounds it is.. haha

That's great, congrats!

I am thinking of doing the same in my 34. Where'd you buy the motor from or did u have a VL/R31 for parts?

Cheers.

i just bought a rb30 off a mate for $100..

Out of interest, did you do any timing belt tensioner re-locations, and which timing belt did you use?

yeah i bassically just followed the rb30det guied in cubes sig...

did you use fresh rings or just grab the bottom end and bolt it up?

no freshen up just a bog stock bottom end with the head bolted on top.. just as GTST says...

thanks guys for all the coments!!! just heard the silicon joiners are in the mail so hopefully they wont take too much longer..

hey just a quick question..just say u had a 32 gts4 or a gtr and u wanted to do the rb30 bottom end with rb26 head would u be able to keep the awd(atessa) in?

would it fit or would u have to remove it??

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