Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I am converting a r33 gtst from auto to man. I am having trouble getting the auto spigot bush out.

I have tried using the wet newspaper with a bolt trick but its not working at all.

Has any body got a spigot bush puller they can lend for a day, I really need it out as its holding me up.

Also, anyone got any other techniques.

Cheers

Daniel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186993-spigot-bush-help-needed/
Share on other sites

Had the same problem converting an auto Stagea engine for a manual box in my 32. The usual method is to fill the hole with grease, then punch a gearbox input shaft into the hole.

However, I ended up resorting to a wheel stud tack-welded onto the bearing, then use a drift hammer to pull it out.

I have tried the equivalent and to no prevail.

The wheel stud you used, was it a perfect ft into the bush or was there 0.5mm - 1mm gap give or take each side.

Cheers

Don't remember - it was 3 years ago, and I'm suffering advanced dementia :laughing-smiley-014:

It doesn't have to fit - the weld will bridge the gap.

sorry to ask a dumb question....but why would an auto have a spigot bush? what sits in it?

I assume its in there for the torque converter and this ones a steel item it doesnt wear down, where the manual bush is brass and slowly wears down overtime. I think this is correct :down:

normally i use grease, but if you cant find a perfect fitting bolt to bash in there try using blue tack.

hasnt failed me yet. and also doesnt destroy the crank if you miss hit with the chisel idea from above..

I had another go at it today. Went to the bolt shop and got almost a perfect match for it..still wont budge, the newspaper keeps pressing into the thread.

The glue tack idea sounds good. I might try some grease instead of the wet newspaper too.

Cheers

For mine I went to the local hardware and bought a suitable size bolt (like 16mm or so as mentioned before), CUT the thread of the end with a hacksaw and cleaned up the edges with a file, then filled the back of the crank with grease and gave it the FBH (f@cken big hammer) approach and it popped out easy as. The bolt has to be a tight fit - ie you have to hit it in with the hammer, and after a short amount of time it came out easy as. Cost me a couple of dollars - tried heaps of other methods before I finally gave this a go - was completely suprised at how easy it was. You then can keep the long bolt 'genuine spiggot bush remover' in your box of tricks for next time. As they say - the right tool makes the job easy! Good luck :-)

you sure the brass bush doent just fit inside of it? i dont see the point of having a bearing for an auto when the crank and torque convertor dont turn in each other unlike an input shaft of a gearbox. ive converted an rb30 auto to a manual and all you have to do is fit the bush

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...