Jump to content
SAU Community

Ap Racing Caliper

Kaido_RR
 Share

Recommended Posts

Kaido_RR Grand Master

Kaido_RR

Posted
Posted

Hi,

I've recently installed AP Racing Caliper (CP5200), with endless pads and slotted disc, on the front of my R33 GTS-T. Im still running stock rear brakes.

I have found that when hitting the brake hard (to the point, where the fronts will lock) i find that the passenger side will lock first.

Is this just a worn tyre, or uneven pad wear? my pads had around 1000-2000km wear when installed, could this be the course of the problem?

Also is this issue anything to worry about?

Cheers Michael

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187694-ap-racing-caliper/
Share on other sites
Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

I think the real problem is why are you locking brakes? generally when you are locking brakes into a corner any unloaded wheel will lock first as obviously it has less grip on the road/track so a given pressure will make it lock much more easily. so it could be tyres, could be road surface but again, I think the first order of business if find out why you are locking brakes.

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted

Hi,

I've recently installed AP Racing Caliper (CP5200), with endless pads and slotted disc, on the front of my R33 GTS-T. Im still running stock rear brakes.

I have found that when hitting the brake hard (to the point, where the fronts will lock) i find that the passenger side will lock first.

Is this just a worn tyre, or uneven pad wear? my pads had around 1000-2000km wear when installed, could this be the course of the problem?

Also is this issue anything to worry about?

Cheers Michael

Well one or other of them has to lock first - usually it is the unloaded side.

But if you have put used pads in then, yeah that is probably your problem.

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted

Cheers guys,

the reason for locking the brakes is to find out the new locking point, as the pedal feel has changed.

Can you offer any feedback as to how good/bad/indifferent the set up is?

How is the bias?

How is the pedal feel?

Which rotor size did you use at the front?

Kaido_RR Grand Master

Kaido_RR

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Can you offer any feedback as to how good/bad/indifferent the set up is?

How is the bias?

How is the pedal feel?

Which rotor size did you use at the front?

sure :glare:

Just for extra information:

Old Setup:

Stock Gts-t Caliper and disc with Bendix ultimate pads (F & R)

New Setup:

Ap Racing CP5200 Caliper with endless pads and 323 slotted disc (front)

Standard Gts-t rear caliper & disc with std pads

So far i have yet to test the new brake setup on the track but i will be doing that this sunday at mc; so atm my feedback is purely base on how i have tested them on the street.

Compare to my old setup, the brakes bit alot harder, and stop the car alot quicker. Also the car still feel balance under braking. I notice the greatest difference at high speed Around 100-120km/hr to low speed of 60km/hr, the car feels much more balance and stop alot quicker.

As mention above the bias is ok, at first i through i would have problems with the rear end not slowing down enough compare to the front but i didn't have any such problems. The only issue i see is that the front lock first.

In the beginning the pedal felt alittle harder compared to my oldsetup, but after a few days of driving it seem to soften up alittle but it is still harder compare to stock (only minor difference, as my oldman drives the car alot and he didnt notice the difference). I found thou that the amount of force required to push on the pedal to lock the car up is less than the stock setup.

Disc size are 323 slotted, im currently running nismo lmgt2 17inch rims, so im hoping i may be able to increase the size of the disc but i don't know what the max. size of the disc is for the caliper :D

final comments :ninja: I love the new setup, and can't wait to see how it will affect my times when i hit the track

Cheers Michael

Lunatikk Rising Star

Lunatikk

Posted
Posted

Michael if you've only driven the car on the road there's a better than average chance it's simply the road-surface camber causing the inside front to lock first, my Brembo 8's do exactly the same thing on certain roads. As long as all your alignment specs are OK it shouldn't be anything to worry about.

Something else to think about is how they brakes have been bedded. From the pics there looks like there's a nice layer of pad material on the rotors (although pics can be deceiving). Even if you think you know how to bed brakes in this article is well worth the read 'cos, with respect, I have spoken with several people about this exact matter in the past & even though they claimed to know it all, in reality they had NFI......

Enjoy!!

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

Kaido_RR Grand Master

Kaido_RR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok just got back from a mc skid-pan day

in the beginning it took me a few runs to get used to the brakes, on my 1st run i locked up the front going 100km/hr and went off the skidpan onto the grass lol, then coming into the stopping zoned i locked up the fronts again.

Once i got used to the brakes, they stop the car alot quicker, and i was able to brake later. still need some more time to get used to them, also my tyres started to wear quick alot towards the end of the session, so i had to start braking earlier.

But all in all, i can say im extremely happy with the brakes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Waders360
      M35 Brake caliper replacement

      By Waders360 · Posted

      Sorry. Front brake calipers
    • MBS206
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...