Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just for your info, the series 2 does not have the sensor in the same spot as the series 1. I did not have to relocate it for the manual conversion.

There are a few cars getting wrecked on the forum, so it should not be too hard to find a cheap one.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187818-g-sensor/page/2/#findComment-3392540
Share on other sites

hey guys i may be wrong but every g sensor i have seen in cars under the concole is for the air bags. as i have replaced alot under warranty on new cars . but i may be wrong just putting the thought out there incase it helps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187818-g-sensor/page/2/#findComment-3393117
Share on other sites

Yeah there is an airbag one in the same area with lots of warning signs on it and yellow wiring running out of it. G-sensor would need to be facing in the "factory direction" so that it can tell if the rear of the car is stepping out, not sure what signal it would be getting if it was sitting sideways?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187818-g-sensor/page/2/#findComment-3393222
Share on other sites

yeah turning it 90o is not good for it, the lateral and longitudinal g sensors are seperate and it will think you are turning when you are accelerating etc.

Of course it might make the attessa perform better (per the autospeed article years ago) but i doubt it relates to the xfer case dying.

Nick good spot for the sensor I might move mine there....mine is further back between the handbrake and the console bin but it is a very poor fit

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187818-g-sensor/page/2/#findComment-3393383
Share on other sites

hey guys i may be wrong but every g sensor i have seen in cars under the concole is for the air bags. as i have replaced alot under warranty on new cars . but i may be wrong just putting the thought out there incase it helps.
Yeah there is an airbag one in the same area with lots of warning signs on it and yellow wiring running out of it. G-sensor would need to be facing in the "factory direction" so that it can tell if the rear of the car is stepping out, not sure what signal it would be getting if it was sitting sideways?

As far as I can remember, the airbag one is the one right at the back in the last of those pics I posted. I'm not sure if it's a g-sensor or just the triggering device, or maybe both are in the same unit.

Here's another pic of it:

Stageabits015.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187818-g-sensor/page/2/#findComment-3393667
Share on other sites

Yeah lousy torx bolts, had to buy a socket to install the handbrake.

I don't do too much rally driving, so hopefully the G-sensor doesn't take too much of a beating from my turning it 90 degrees. I will endeavour to turn it back now that I understand its purpose better. I'm driving my car full of gear with a trailer to Bathurst tomorrow, so I'll be taking it nice and easy. It's a very easy way to lower your car by loading it with about 500kg of stuff.

When I get to Bathurst I'll turn it around for the homeward journey.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187818-g-sensor/page/2/#findComment-3393708
Share on other sites

  • 3 years later...
  • 10 years later...
On 10/5/2007 at 11:39 PM, Terminal said:

Yeah lousy torx bolts, had to buy a socket to install the handbrake.

I don't do too much rally driving, so hopefully the G-sensor doesn't take too much of a beating from my turning it 90 degrees. I will endeavour to turn it back now that I understand its purpose better. I'm driving my car full of gear with a trailer to Bathurst tomorrow, so I'll be taking it nice and easy. It's a very easy way to lower your car by loading it with about 500kg of stuff.

When I get to Bathurst I'll turn it around for the homeward journey.

Did turning g-sensor to factory position help?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187818-g-sensor/page/2/#findComment-7968461
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...