Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Ls1 Conversion

BezerkR32

By BezerkR32,
in Motorsport Builds

 Share

Recommended Posts

1400r Veteran

1400r

Posted
Posted
How exactly is the grunt the problem? Are you sure its not just crap drivers and poorly set up cars?

George isn't that bad of a slider and Im sure the setup of the car has had more work than yours or mine

why is the sr20 most suited motor for drifting ? = torquey midrange good "ark up'd ness" abiltiy when capped at power levels under 300rwkw

(lol i.e the way it ramps up onto boost hard)

check out Trent's SR20 for sale thread speaking about Cat's rb26 you'll see that linear power delivery and lots of downlow torque do not automatically make a D1 car

if slamming a ls1 into a shell made a awesome drift car everyone would be doing it hell the Japanese already would have already been doing it

balance and speed make a good skidder

ps can anyone point me in the direction of some credable ls1 engine and box weight specs?

  • Replies 812
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

1400r Veteran

1400r

Posted
Posted (edited)

I figured as much funny how ls1's wicked cause its lighter than a rb but when you take the box into account I doubt there's much if any difference between the two engine and gearbox packages

sites Ive found quoting around 200kg for a ls1 complete minus box

err box who knows?

anyway goodluck with it just don't expect it to own all first time out

Edited by 1400r
BezerkR32 Veteran

BezerkR32

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Box is out so ill weigh it tomorro. PS Whats a R33 5 speed weigh?

I cant remember saying i was building a drift car, the car was originally going to be a drag car, i said i would like to drift in it, as well as do some circuit work

and some skids and drags etc. But in saying that i have been carefull in how the engine was mounted, getting it as low and rearward as posible without sump mods, and have had some help from the Sureflow drift team on basic suspension setup for the amatuer, seeind thats what i am. not looking to win any trophies, just have some fun. I have a go kart 4 winning trophies. Believe it or not, the Japanese are not the be all and end all of motorsport.

Anyway, this is the project i have commited too and the engine is now at the machine shop.

Piston to valve clearance was 65thou with no head gasket, so arount 105thou. this gives us the oportunity to deck around twentyfive thou off to bring the comp up so the small cube V8 will develope more low down torque. Piston to bore clearance was a little excessive at 3 thou but good enough for a race car. Just waiting for a hone then ill slap it together. need all i can find to compete with these SR20s.

George isn't that bad of a slider and Im sure the setup of the car has had more work than yours or mine

why is the sr20 most suited motor for drifting ? = torquey midrange good "ark up'd ness" abiltiy when capped at power levels under 300rwkw

(lol i.e the way it ramps up onto boost hard)

check out Trent's SR20 for sale thread speaking about Cat's rb26 you'll see that linear power delivery and lots of downlow torque do not automatically make a D1 car

if slamming a ls1 into a shell made a awesome drift car everyone would be doing it hell the Japanese already would have already been doing it

balance and speed make a good skidder

ps can anyone point me in the direction of some credable ls1 engine and box weight specs?

Edited by BezerkR32
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
BezerkR32 Veteran

BezerkR32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

no, only a custom crossmember to suit the box, it is tight though. about 15mm around the top. even the shifter hole is very close. just have to extend it rearwould 20mm.

Car is at my brother in laws getting some minor fab work. mounting the seat, window net, a second side intrusion bar on the drivers side etc. should be finished in a couple of days. The bottom end of the engine is also ready to go, still waiting for the heads though. booked in to get wired in a couple of weeks. clutch should arrive this week.

just from looking at the pics the enigine seems to sit lower than the RB?

also nice work, i would be very interesting in doing this when my little RB goes bang. so there was no changes to the trans tunnel?

tm_r33 Experienced

tm_r33

Posted
Posted

i believe the ls1 motor is 50 kilos lighter that the rb... have a dvd at home where there is a twin turbo ls1 in a 34... they call the thing Frankenstein's drifter. it also has the tremec box.... although these days the car actually has a stroked 6.6 litre ls2 with a masive twin turbo set up... but its making boost from 2500 rpm. Good luck with the whole project mate

BezerkR32 Veteran

BezerkR32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Rings and bearings, clutch, flywheel and balancer have all arrived. Have taken them all to the machine shop to balance the rotating assy. Once done i can build the bottom end and give Machine shop the deck hight as to machine the heads. Seat is mounted. just on the CAMS website to research the fitment of second side intrusion bar. Once the bar is in we can complete the window net mounting. Also going to recess the floor for the exhaust to run in. All these little bits and pieces are more time consuming than first thought, but getting there. Also have to indent D/S chassis rail for extractor clearance. Have made solid aluminium engine mounts to eliminate engine movement as the drivers side is tight. Trying to organise a painter, have a friend coming to look at it on Friday, so might give the engine bay a lick first, then fit everything so it can go to the electrician. Pretty excited know as i haven't built an engine for myself in over 12 years, its always been for someone else or a customer. just cant wait to hear it. Post some pics soon.

  • 2 weeks later...
BezerkR32 Veteran

BezerkR32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Required removal of power steer rack and installation of manual steer rack on my car.

how tight is tight on the drivers side, my car decided to stop on the side of the road, cock it's leg and take a leak, so i might be looking at doing this sooner than i thought

post-20078-1201555861_thumb.jpg

BezerkR32 Veteran

BezerkR32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thats the idea Jas, once this things finished its gone.

Stuart, Stuart, Stuart.................... :ermm:

See what happens when you hang around these drag racing louts.

Get back into circuit racing mate, or at least your go kart.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
BezerkR32 Veteran

BezerkR32

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

As you can see Adrian has beaten me to the punch but thats his job as a mag editor.

car has had its first cote of paint, should be finished this week. painter is choosing a black for the turret, bonnet and boot. the yellow is vivid yellow off a hyundai of all things.

Thinking of coca cola for the top. still have to get bonnet and boot made. At the end of the day its all money. Picked up some Rays Engineering 17" wheels. Have split them as to have the centres painted and the dish polished. Alot of bolts in those buggers.

After dummying up the bottom end a few weeks ago only to find the main bearings clearances were tight, so sent the block away to have main bearing tunnel honed and crank re-ground. On re-measuring we have found that all is perfect and ready for assembily.

start pushing for my heads now. so all happening. Like to thank Nick from NM Autobody for the quick and thorough paint job.

Edited by BezerkR32
BezerkR32 Veteran

BezerkR32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Was lucky enough to come across a gtr alluminium bonnet for a good price from SSS.

Happy as i know it will fit perfect, and know it is a shit load lighter than the GTST unit. So know its just the boot lid which JS Auto Imports is supplying and said to be ready this week. This will be the first time this car has had all the panels fitted sinse i have owned it. Pretty excited know as things are taking shape.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By MBS206 · Posted

      For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Sorry, just assumed that talk of coloured pads meant EBC red/green/yellow/shit stuff. I don't know the DBA pads, but it's a reasonable bet that they will be OK. DBA make good stuff generally. Those 4000 series rotors I linked to are very good. I may well replace the RDA rotors I have with those when required.
    • joshuaho96
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      All I hear is ROADTRIP!
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
×
×
  • Create New...