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I have dynoed my GTT R34 (FULL STOCK), and have made 158 kw at rw... is this below, average or higher than most GTT R34's???

Also, i have no idea why but there is no 2nd stage boost for my GTT R34 and jumps straight up to full standard boost then drops down alittle bit... Is this normal??? Cuz my previous R33 GTS-T always had 2nd stage boost for stock...

158 is in the ball park. I'd say 145-155rwkw mark would be around what it would make.

Oh thats great to hear, so its not doing bad at all? But then again, like i said the 2nd stage boost has been eliminated and i don't know whether its solenoid wires has been earthed or anything but will this maybe increase the few kw up to 158?

Or do GTT R34 just doesn't have 2nd stage boost like the R33 at all?

not sure if i misread/misunderstood what you were saying but removing the 2nd stage boost so that it is always on the 2nd stage rather then sequential (low to high) will not increase power as you are always reaching the full stock 7psi at some point, on a dyno print out it would show the power delivery steeper, not taller

If thats not what your saying then disregard :thumbsup:

Edited by Baconer

Oh alright thanks manz, SkylinesAustralia is so much better than the previous forum i was always at (Skylinesowners.com) :thumbsup:

anywayz, wat the dyno graph shows is that my boost drops down 1 psi i think near by the end of rev with stock boost, so i don't understand wat the hecks going on as i thought it should stay at max stock boost 7 psi.

The boost seems to boost up to about 8 for some reason (FULL STOCK CAR), then drops down to about 7 or 6.7 psi near by the end of rev...And this is how the car made 158 kwrw... Does anyone know why the boost is higher than stock 7 psi for GTT R34??? and also does anyone know why the boost drops off when its not even boosted yet...

Later i used a turbotech manual boost controller and tried to control at 10 psi, then later it drops down to 7 psi... Would this mean the MBC is at fault? or my turbo is fooked??? ( BTW it made 164 kw@rw with boost controller)

Boost drops due to the stock solenoid. I wouldnt worry about it too much.

You really should start with a decent panel filter, exhaust and a ECU or S-AFC (or similar).

Then go looking for some extra boost.

Yeah im aware of that, but all i wanted to do is control the boost at 7-8...

My next step is to get all u said but i was thinking maybe i don't need the FMIC for GTT R34 as the intercooler can take up to 200kwrw... But the mechanic told me as it is summer now, it'll be safe to get a FMIC and then boost it up...So would my gtt intercooler be reliable for now with 10 psi boost and exhaust or should i just get a FMIC?

The stock GT-t cooler will be fine for 9-10psi. Plenty of people have made reasonable power with it.

Better off with the exhaust first, then a cooler later if you change turbos or something.

A massive cooler on a stock turbo and light boost will just make the car unresponsive.

The stock GT-t cooler will be fine for 9-10psi. Plenty of people have made reasonable power with it.

Better off with the exhaust first, then a cooler later if you change turbos or something.

A massive cooler on a stock turbo and light boost will just make the car unresponsive.

will 0.85 be too much of a boost for a stock GTT cooler to take during the australian summer coming if i trash it for the full boost to kick in lil often??? Whats the safest boost to set to 0.8 for summer with stock cooler? i don't wanna waste money on new cooler thats why....

10-11psi is the limit really anyhow.

Anymore and the turbo life is diminished, and will die eventually.

It'll be fine IMO if you give it a squirt here and there.

No turbo car should be 'flogged' to the high heavens in 40degree heat anyhow IMO.

The boost is dropping off due to the restrictive exhaust.

Mod in this order:

3" cat back exhaust.

High flow panel filter in stock airbox.

Proper 3" cat.

Turbo to cat. Bell mouth dump ok but split is better.

ECU upgrade of some sort, lots of possibilities out there, will probably need a boost controller at this stage too.

Etc

Etc

Keep going til your girfriend leaves.

you can also take 206kw at the engine and slowly do all those calculations you deduct from transmission loss and stuff to find rwkw.

Yes, but then again i keep getting different type of methods from different people to calculate it and it just doesn't work out. Somebody says to deduct 15% off the flywheel figure, which means 206kw becomes 170 kwrw which doesn't make sense.

Also because i had a R33 GTS-T previously and know R33 real WELL, by using this method of deducting 15% off 187kw flywheel becomes around 158kwrw which is ALSO IMPOSSIBLE as R33 is around 130-140 and lil over 140 if lucky.

Im also aware that R34 is 140-150 kwrw stock but i just wanted to make sure with the experts here. Im actually quite happy with the dyno i made of 158kwrw as its stock, but boost does drop off and its pretty bad when double d clutching as i use the dropped off boost instead of the higher boost in earlier rev range.

Currently after a tune yesterday my car sits at 184 rwkw on .75 Bar.

My mods so far are:

Splitfire coil packs

Walbro fuel pump

Drift pod filter

Blitz front mount

3 inch turbo back exhaust

Platinum spark plugs gapped to 0.8

AVCR boost controller

They could not put anymore boost into the car due to the standard computer pulling timing and dumping fuel at any higher boost level.

I have the next round of mods sitting at home now ready to go in which are:

Power FC

550cc Injectors

Z32 airflow meter

just ran out of money to fit this stuff at the moment

Currently after a tune yesterday my car sits at 184 rwkw on .75 Bar.

My mods so far are:

Splitfire coil packs

Walbro fuel pump

Drift pod filter

Blitz front mount

3 inch turbo back exhaust

Platinum spark plugs gapped to 0.8

AVCR boost controller

They could not put anymore boost into the car due to the standard computer pulling timing and dumping fuel at any higher boost level.

I have the next round of mods sitting at home now ready to go in which are:

Power FC

550cc Injectors

Z32 airflow meter

just ran out of money to fit this stuff at the moment

Is your car a manual or auto?

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