Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

My car has been misfiring for the past 2 months and after going to 3 different mechanics and even after changing a number of parts its still no good. However the last mechanic thinks it is most likely either the O2 sensor, Crank Angle Sensor or Computer (eManage) thats causing the problem because the car missfires after 2000 revs only and especially when the engine is hot - it sometimes won't even allow it to power on when its hot so once cool, it will power up but still missfires. Anyways, i'm getting the shits now and I really want this fixed. I'm getting it taken to this place DynoTune in moorebank and was just wondering if these guys will be able to sort it out.

Thanks guys

Edited by Alien

these guys are shit talkers.

they want to charge me $400 and they have not even found the problem yet. The bloke on the phone said they will do a computer test which will take an hour and a half at $80p/h and now its $400. Their solution is to buy their EMS computer and get them to tune it all up $2500 plus the $400. And I bet then, the problem will still be there as the problem is not with the computer to begin with. I knew I was gona run into this shit by going to a "accessible, nearby place". Unbelievable.

Whether you consider this a whinge or advice, DO NOT TAKE YOUR CAR TO DYNOTUNE & EFI

They are a RIPOFF and have "diagnosed" the 34 with same results as I suspected over 2 months ago, only they charged $400 (without advising me of these costs). Will be taking this to fair trading.

that's such a typical story. so many rip off tuners around.

i recommend C&V Performance at caringbah.

i've used them. they know their shit. and they really look after their customers cars.

also, they dont charge like a wounded bull. and if they quote you a price, and run overtime, they stick to the agreed price.

obviously this is my personal experience. i'm very happy with them.

Whether you consider this a whinge or advice, DO NOT TAKE YOUR CAR TO DYNOTUNE & EFI

They are a RIPOFF and have "diagnosed" the 34 with same results as I suspected over 2 months ago, only they charged $400 (without advising me of these costs). Will be taking this to fair trading.

HA HA,the c**ts have no clue! I went to them years back and they tried to rought me aswell (jason the owner) told him to snap out of it before i snap his jaw,f*kn rip off dogs :)

damn darko.your car still has the same probs.

yeah you should get greg at autosport to have a look at it.he knows skylines inside out.

also TO4GTR had the same problem.it turned out to be a fouling injector.

does the emanage have a hand controller so that you can check duty cycle/overall performance of the injectors? this could bring to light a problem in that area,if there is one.as per dave's injector problem you learn from it.

here are a few possible areas that it could be.

*coil packs.

*coil pack igniter.(if any of the wires leading from the "coil pack igniter" are not giving a reading/or any that are reading spastic on the multimeter.you have a problem.)vise versa for the wires that lead to it from the computer.

*Crank Angle Sensor.(if the computer gets the signal to fire the coil packs at the wrong time you definantly will have a missfire.)

*exposed wires in the ignition system.(that means a thourough check of all the wiring in the ignition system.)

*spark plugs.

*water in the airbox.

*leak in the intercooler to manifold pipework.(the car will spit out black smoke,right after it splutters,if this is the case.)

*afm is a possibility.though dont quote me on that.its only a suggestion.

*the computer.

i've got an idea.

connect the emanage to a laptop and log the data when it is misfiring.

click on the data logger option, which is the one ive circles in RED.

make sure you choose all maps by clicking the button ive circles in ORANGE and choosing the same ones i have chosen then click OK.

to start logging click on start (derr) which is in GREEN.

choose to save the logged data then put it into a .zip file then PM it to me.

ill have a look at it and see if i can help you with anything.

post-13452-1192108261_thumb.jpg

hey guys I appreciate the help but I just got off the phone to Brett (midnight performance) and he has 110% identified the problem which is the fuel pump and fuel pump wiring - why am I not surprised the guy knows his stuff... he has a 32 GTR and R33 GTST S2 himself. I got referred to him by Minh (DR GTR) and once I got to his workshop I realised I know him and hes a top bloke, he helped me out before too back in the r32 days so I was 100% confident that the car will be fixed in no time.

Anyways, I will now tear Dynotune a new ahole =)

and rememmber: DO NOT GO TO DYNOTUNE & EFI Moorebank

  • 1 year later...
i've got an idea.

connect the emanage to a laptop and log the data when it is misfiring.

click on the data logger option, which is the one ive circles in RED.

make sure you choose all maps by clicking the button ive circles in ORANGE and choosing the same ones i have chosen then click OK.

to start logging click on start (derr) which is in GREEN.

choose to save the logged data then put it into a .zip file then PM it to me.

ill have a look at it and see if i can help you with anything.

post-13452-1192108261_thumb.jpg

hey could you please give the contact detils for midnight performance?

hey guys I appreciate the help but I just got off the phone to Brett (midnight performance) and he has 110% identified the problem which is the fuel pump and fuel pump wiring - why am I not surprised the guy knows his stuff... he has a 32 GTR and R33 GTST S2 himself. I got referred to him by Minh (DR GTR) and once I got to his workshop I realised I know him and hes a top bloke, he helped me out before too back in the r32 days so I was 100% confident that the car will be fixed in no time.

Anyways, I will now tear Dynotune a new ahole =)

and rememmber: DO NOT GO TO DYNOTUNE & EFI Moorebank

hey guys I appreciate the help but I just got off the phone to Brett (midnight performance) and he has 110% identified the problem which is the fuel pump and fuel pump wiring - why am I not surprised the guy knows his stuff... he has a 32 GTR and R33 GTST S2 himself. I got referred to him by Minh (DR GTR) and once I got to his workshop I realised I know him and hes a top bloke, he helped me out before too back in the r32 days so I was 100% confident that the car will be fixed in no time.

Anyways, I will now tear Dynotune a new ahole =)

and rememmber: DO NOT GO TO DYNOTUNE & EFI Moorebank

hey could you please give the contact detils for midnight performance?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...