Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I haven't taken my car to the track yet and i am just woundering what pads i should use.

i would just be putting them in driving to the track going for a run and taking the pads out again once i got home.

I have a solid (vented)front rotor and drilled rears. I will get slotted rotters for the car in time but untill then i will stay with the setup the last owner had.

Its a r32 GTR.

Also after the best tyres for the track and where to get them?

and can you run semi slicks on just the wakefield licence.

Cheers

Keith

Edited by BNR32t
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188200-brake-pads-for-the-track/
Share on other sites

I haven't taken my car to the track yet and i am just woundering what pads i should use.

i would just be putting them in driving to the track going for a run and taking the pads out again once i got home.

I have a solid (vented)front rotor and drilled rears. I will get slotted rotters for the car in time but untill then i will stay with the setup the last owner had.

Its a r32 GTR.

Also after the best tyres for the track and where to get them?

and can you run semi slicks on just the wakefield licence.

Cheers

Keith

I will probably be going for the EBC red's for everyday use and track (designd for the track as they need to heat up to be most effective). Are you looking at changing the rotors as well? You normally let the pads bed in to the rotors and swapping and changing them would seem to limit their effectiveness.

I'm still considering tyres, Ladybytes swears by here Federal 595 RS's.

The wakefield licence allows you to run full slicks if you want.

I will probably be going for the EBC red's for everyday use and track (designd for the track as they need to heat up to be most effective). Are you looking at changing the rotors as well? You normally let the pads bed in to the rotors and swapping and changing them would seem to limit their effectiveness.

I just had these installed last week along with some new RDA rotors. You're sure as hell right in that they need to be warmed up to be at their best.

I've got EBC reds. Yep you need to dig into them a bit when not really warm to stop fast. I'm very happy with their stopping power in general in combination with my RDA front slotted rotors and about to try them on the track. They are half worn already, so we'll see :( My mechanic says the EBC Greens are even more track oriented and need to be warmed up even more!

Edited by sl33py
My mechanic says the EBC Greens are even more track oriented and need to be warmed up even more!

Your mechanic is wrong then :( the greens are a "performance" steet pad. the EBC Red's are more of a "high performance" street/Track. I ran RB74's on wakefield and although some people say they are not as good as some other brands when you way up the $$$ vs performance i thought they did bloody well, no break fade or anything like that

I just had these installed last week along with some new RDA rotors. You're sure as hell right in that they need to be warmed up to be at their best.

They still break as well as ordinary pads when cold? Just lots better when warm?

It normally takes 500km to get the pads and the rotors to bond most effectively. Hopefully it will improve over time?

It normally takes 500km to get the pads and the rotors to bond most effectively. Hopefully it will improve over time?

Yeah hopefully they eventually stop squealing loud enough to wake the dead after 500kms!

What are the ferodo's like everyday?

Or are they just a track pad?

im still using them on my car and they've been on the car for a year and a half! (done 3 full track days on them). they are great on the street. they take about 2-3 normal braking applications to warm up and work effectively, but once you've done that, they're perfect. as an everyday pad, i would recommend them.

as for the track, they are also great. they can handle big temps and wont fade (in my experience anyway). i warped my brake discs before my brakes faded, then my fluid boiled, but the pads stayed true and still to this day will stop my car on a dime....

will is ds2500 the part number? Will they go straite into my r32 standard rotors? Or will i need a different part number?

Cheers Frink, Cause i work at repco and we sell ferodo's so it might be a cheap option for me.

thanks heaps mate.

For Brakes I would go for Bendix Ultimate, they're great for everyday driving, takes about 2 good stops for them to get good "bite", I used them at Texikhana recently and had no fade, sqeal, grinding or excess heat... They were great.

For tyres - street legal semi slicks go for Federal 595RS, best bang for your buck tyre available.

will is ds2500 the part number? Will they go straite into my r32 standard rotors? Or will i need a different part number?

Cheers Frink, Cause i work at repco and we sell ferodo's so it might be a cheap option for me.

thanks heaps mate.

they should do straight in the rotor, they do for 33's. you should be able to research the part number in the cataloge you should have behind the desk (im only guessing...). they are more expensive then the Bendix Ultimates, but i think its worth it....

its funny, just as i say all these good things about these pads, only this morning they ran out pad and i now need new ones! oh well, they're still a great pad....

I'm now considering EBC yellows, better in all ways to the reds except for dust. Not so sure on the quietness though, they don't advertise that.

Considering I can land a full set (F+R) for the GTR for $330, that is a huge saving.

you will find the EBC yellows are more of a track pad than the reds, if its for everyday street use even EBC recommend against going the yellows over the reds.

edit: makes more sense now.

Edited by TiTAN

EBC says:

Ultra high friction pads for race use but perfectly safe for street use (Formula 1846).

Although a full race material and capable of high temperature use with very good wear life, this new formulation sets a new trend in race type brake pad compounds that can be used on the highway. The “bite” from cold is superb which is uncommon with race materials (normally requiring warm-up) and makes this a pad which can be safely used on both street and track. This new formulation has been used by numerous championship race and rally drivers and is truly a milestone in brake pad material development. Nominal friction coefficient 0.5 with zero rotor damage and similar dust to original pads.

http://www.ebcbrakes.com/yellowstuffinfo.html

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This car has run before on this z32 ecu can get the part number for you, I have tried with no AFM it didn’t change anything, I compression tested today 140-150 across all 6 cylinders, also set fuel pressure to 43psi. The only weird thing was cylinder 1 plug was black and fouled other 5 cylinders were just wet with fuel. Spun cas by hand and confirmed injectors are clicking 
    • Since you came here to ask for help, have you thought about answering our questions, that might help us lead you to why it was skipping, or have you given up on getting advice?
    • A 1.5 way is a 2 way. It is just a 2 way with a less aggressive ramp on overrun.
    • The ABS and/or TCS being missing/broken will not cause the engine to misbehave. It just casues CEL to come on and annoy you. The CEL is useless if it is always on, so you have to do the things you have to do to get rid of it, so it can be useful. Being a Stag ECU, then yes, it will not expect TCS to be present. But it will expect ABS to be present and working. You will need to either make the ABS CU talk to the ECU (don't ask me what that will take on an NA R34), and make sure the hardware is working....or, you just need to blank it out in Nistune. Do not persist with the stock ECU. You will just have problems. Gte it Nistuned. Start from there. DO YOU HAVE A BOOST SENSOR? The ECU's boost sensor that it. It is connected to the loom at the rear of the coil cover. Usually rides on the firewall on an R34, but is usually bolted down to a bracket along with all the other crap at the back of the coil cover when a Neo is dropped into another car. If you do not have it, the ECU will shit the bed. So, do you have one?
    • So sadly the fuel pump etc was not it. The pump and filter is new and it is still cutting around 4000 rpm. A read something about ABS/TCS (engine is from stagea and ECU too so no TCS) and i dont know for 100% that my car has ABS. It has ABS "cube" in engine bay but i dont think it works(or at least from my braking experience). Can be something like that?  I will be driving the car next week to Nistune tuner to properly see what is wrong...  
×
×
  • Create New...