Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

IMHO with you running that sort of power I'd go an OS replacement gear set...with the initial parts cost plus fitting it won't be too much more than trying to find a GOOD s/h series 3 box.

If moneys is short just replace with a good 2nd hand series 1/2 box....

If money is not short, how much should i be looking to spend on a gearset?

I just found a series 3 box for $1,100+ freight which i thought to be pretty reasonable but i dont want to keep doing this over and over. The previous owner killed two boxes before me and strangley enough they have all been in 3rd gear. I am sure my triple plate clutch is not helping the cause.

Edited by fieds83

Transfer case isn't worth that much... you can swap yours onto it.

The power your running isn't killing the boxes, it's either the clutch or your driving style or both. Chances are it's the clutch killing the boxes. You could put a OS Giken gearset through your S3 box, probably cost you between 3-5k.....

Yeh, just checked greenline and they have 5 speed cross mission gearsets on sale for $2,480aud. So i would be expecting $3,500-$4,000 fitted.

Thanks for the info, the clutch is copping most of the blame in this instance though i have to admit it happened in the heat of the moment.

yeah, i had 300awkw for 18 months no dramas. re-tuned to 376 and smashed 2 of them within a month. got a ppg now. so ya a os gearset is the go. and since yours is a s3 you dont need to get the upgrade parts from nissan.

it will be cheaper in the long run. they are about 2.5k for the set. with the input shaft.

yeah. i have run a os twin, nismo twin, both damperd. nismo tripple and a r3c os. all without issue untill the power rose. my frst one(route6 ) stripped the input shaft gear.when changing to 3rd. and the second standard gearbox smashed all the teeth of 3rd after ONE QUICK change.

yeah. i have run a os twin, nismo twin, both damperd. nismo tripple and a r3c os. all without issue untill the power rose. my frst one(route6 ) stripped the input shaft gear.when changing to 3rd. and the second standard gearbox smashed all the teeth of 3rd after ONE QUICK change.

yeah. i have run a os twin, nismo twin, both damperd. nismo tripple and a r3c os. all without issue untill the power rose. my frst one(route6 ) stripped the input shaft gear.when changing to 3rd. and the second standard gearbox smashed all the teeth of 3rd after ONE QUICK change.

I think you would be doing pretty well to get a good series 3 box for 1100. The trouble with 2nd hand boxes is that unless you can open it up and look before you buy you are never sure what you are getting.

For the power you have listed and you have $3ish k to spend without doubt go an aftermarket gearset like an OS....I've seen way too many std boxes in GTR's break with that power (granted it was track use). If you don't have the money then try an find a good condition 2nd hand R33 box and as long as you don't have a solid center clutch and are fairly gentle with it it should last a while.

All I know is that the series 3 boxes have stronger syncros and a few other strengthened bits....maybe someone else here could provide part no's or something to identify them.

  • Like 1
I think you would be doing pretty well to get a good series 3 box for 1100. The trouble with 2nd hand boxes is that unless you can open it up and look before you buy you are never sure what you are getting.

For the power you have listed and you have $3ish k to spend without doubt go an aftermarket gearset like an OS....I've seen way too many std boxes in GTR's break with that power (granted it was track use). If you don't have the money then try an find a good condition 2nd hand R33 box and as long as you don't have a solid center clutch and are fairly gentle with it it should last a while.

All I know is that the series 3 boxes have stronger syncros and a few other strengthened bits....maybe someone else here could provide part no's or something to identify them.

I don't know if it helps but here ya go:

Series 2 box:

Part Num: 32010-12U00

Series 3 box:

Part Num: 32010-12U10

Nissan list 32010-12U10 as the "alternate part" for series 2 but list 32010-12U60 as the alternate for series 3 R33 GTR.

Looking inside the box itself theres a load of parts to compare and im lazy.

I don't know if it helps but here ya go:

Series 2 box:

Part Num: 32010-12U00

Series 3 box:

Part Num: 32010-12U10

Nissan list 32010-12U10 as the "alternate part" for series 2 but list 32010-12U60 as the alternate for series 3 R33 GTR.

Looking inside the box itself theres a load of parts to compare and im lazy.

Thanks for your help Kris, hows your gtr going? Did you end up with those GTSS's?

Buying them soon - heading to Japan in January and picking them up there.

Car's going well though.

You bought a S3 now? You found one you liked?

Yeh, got a good deal on this one from a forum member. When i rectify this gearbox issue i will transport the car upto Mackay as my dad just bought a house there so now i have somewhere to keep an extra car. Was thinking to go 34 but this one has some tastefull mods and was a lot cheaper. As it happens my mate wants to sell his 34 at bargain basement now, its very tempting but i just bought this car and i am not ready to let it go.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Why are people so insistent on making dirty water?!
    • Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
×
×
  • Create New...