Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Marko, don't be silly, just buy a new gasket and be done with it, call Nissan closest to you, they should have them in stock no worries or will be able to get them to you next day

I was under the impression nissan had to order from japan (3 week wait)? Ill give them a go first thing tomorrow morning :thumbsup:

I'm just getting kinda desperate... haha, out of the 6 places i called 4 are VERY reputable yet no gasket love :)

btw, the silicone i was reffering to is proper gasket seal type.. not Bunnings tile silicone lol.

Edited by tx3_90
Need help with something,

I got a dump pipe for my car, want to put it on asap however ive called a few tuning shops near my place and no one has brand new turbo dump pipe gaskets?? Should i worry about it or just use plenty of silicone and re-use my old one? Im thinking with my new engine build it only needs to be temporary for a few months till its ready to be swapped over anyways. Thoughts?

Btw, its the jjr cheapo one, was saving for an am performance one but this came up at the right price. Ill be using a gt30 with my rb25/30 anyways in a few months so ill get one made up by them when its all done.

Try places like D&T, ET exhausts, Aussie Discount and other exhaust shops mate

they generally have them in stock

good luck with it mate

any plans for it James? prelude engine conversion? chromies? i say whack on some stupid offset watanbe's.

Exactly my thoughts Damo, sused a set of 13x5.5 Watanbe's in QLD, bit sad when you say your upsizing rims to 13". Going to go black bonnet, clean the interior up, then see what conversions are viable. Chromies :thumbsup:

Yes its damn ugly, and yes shopping trolleys do handle better :)

Might have to hit Chef or JIS up to see what engines are available :)

Edited by Jamesrb25

on the subject of dumps, i just found the mandrel bend on my dump "crimped" and the flange pulled away from the exhaust housing at the top. turns out my car was so low for AJD the flange near the cat caught on a sewer cover in the middle of the road (like 5mm lip or something) when i was reversing out of my driveway, and pushed the dump forwards and down. it's a AM performance split dump too, not f**king happy.

My new daily. Let the laughs and flamage begin !

Daily Spec!

put a fake huge cannon slip on tip , on it

a massive wing , trolley handle ?

black and white,spiral graphics on hubcaps to hypnotize cops and innocent bystanders

a drag car bonnet scoop as tall as roof, non functional model..lol

cardboard side skirts and airdam, duct taped on

tint the windows black, so you wont be seen driving it...lol

that car is fugly mate...but stealthy in its own way,,,,and maximum birth control for free

cause ..you will never get laid driving that..lol even married you won't..lol

I LOL'd ........ especially at the last bit :laughing-smiley-014:

with everyone gettting a new daily pos and the rolla gang. how about a dailys dyno day :/

categorys of most hp, lowest hp, best bang for buck, most fkd up power curve :(

Win! Ill get my daily out there too, cept it will probably explode.

We also need a division for the dodgyest modification. (Inc. paintjobs for those who have heard about mine :D )

Edited by 93GTST
I was under the impression nissan had to order from japan (3 week wait)? Ill give them a go first thing tomorrow morning :/

I'm just getting kinda desperate... haha, out of the 6 places i called 4 are VERY reputable yet no gasket love :D

btw, the silicone i was reffering to is proper gasket seal type.. not Bunnings tile silicone lol.

I too went to a few reputable workshops ... in the end I got mine over the counter (same day) at Unley Nissan.

:(

Exactly my thoughts Damo, sused a set of 13x5.5 Watanbe's in QLD, bit sad when you say your upsizing rims to 13". Going to go black bonnet, clean the interior up, then see what conversions are viable. Chromies :/

Yes its damn ugly, and yes shopping trolleys do handle better :(

Might have to hit Chef or JIS up to see what engines are available :D

Could probably stick a motorbike engine in it.

they are flat out atm dude, no joke!

That dont stop my boss from firing my ass cause i couldnt get her racings stripes :/

she'll live, however i may not after she nags me to death that her car dosnt look racey enough.

Edited by Inline 6
Exactly my thoughts Damo, sused a set of 13x5.5 Watanbe's in QLD, bit sad when you say your upsizing rims to 13". Going to go black bonnet, clean the interior up, then see what conversions are viable. Chromies :/

Yes its damn ugly, and yes shopping trolleys do handle better :(

Might have to hit Chef or JIS up to see what engines are available :D

get NOS!!!

buy a case of spray whipped cream and use the NOS propellant from them to get the daily fly'n, then use the whipped cream to hide the car, or some randy sexual fantasy...lol

or fill the airbags with it,,,, hit something and the whipped cream saves ya..lol

Now there's an idea Ruby! Only 100cc increase in capacity, still a honda engine, cant see that Regency would have a problem with that :(

Actually, its a Suzuki engine!

I could help you design and fab it up .. complete with ram air intake!!! I've had a hand in a project like this before :/

Edited by RubyRS4
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...