Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

LOL ACC added me on their myspace page not too long ago..

must be desperate for an auto 31 to join..

whats wrong with auto 31's??? look at SLO-031....last time down the strip ran 11's......hopefully will be back out soon with even more power....or my 31....thats auto...and fun as hell...There are times when i wish it was manual....but having an auto outweighs that

also...my mate blew the head gasket on his sr20 powered 1600 the other day......first time he's opened the engine....bought it second hand nearly 6 years ago...and the cars done fast laps at mallala, phillip island, queensland raceway...collingrove..and run low 11 quaters....not bad for a red top sr20 i reckon

this has to be one of the funniest ways to explain how something works:

GTST

R&R = Rich and Retard (kinda like Paris Hilton but with less skank)

the standard R33 ECU will modify the air:fuel mixture by making it run rich and retard the timing when it senses something outside it's expected parameters.

quick lesson.

air goes in through the air filter, goes past the AFM (air Flow Meter) which sends a message to the ECU saying "Hey bro.. there is 12 air habibs coming your way"

ECU goes "No worries bro.. I'll douse them with 2 bits of fuel and burn the f**kers"

the air (habibs) go through the turbo and get all hot and angry like a bunch of lebs that just did 14 sets of bicep curls in a power cage, then through the intercooler to coll off a little, then in to the motor where they think they are entering a hektik nightclub only to be doused in fuel and burnt and spat out the back of the turbo and out the exhaust.

so..

The AFM (lets say is a Kiwi bouncer.. you know.. tough, but can't really count much) can only measure up to a certain number or air.

when you use a boost controller (lets say a hot chick bro), and you turn it up (reduce the length of her skirt and shrink the top), more air gets forced in to the engine (lots of habibs get calls from their cousins and they call go to this place and try to get in).

The AFM can only count so much and realises that there is too much air going in so sends a message to the ECU saying "Bro.. I only counted 15 habibs but I think that another 10 of their cousins snuck in... I'm not sure hey.. I didn't learn to count that many"

ECU goes "f**k you're a stupid coconut c*nt... now I have to deal with these habibs"

So as the habibs make their way through the turbo and intercooler (no doubt stealing stuff along the way), and in to the motor, the ecu douses them with heaps of fuel and makes all the habibs really wet with fuel.. this means that when they are burnt off, they don't burn well and so come out as darker smoke.

Because of his bad mixture (too many habibs in the one club), the ECU also retards the timing (closes the bar for a while) meaning that everything works really badly... all to protect the motor (hektik club) until the AFM (bouncer) gets his shit together and counts properly.

all this means that your car will jerk as if it's hitting some sort of cut or has a fault..

but it's just your car's way of telling you there are too many habibs.

How do you fix this?

Cheapest = A signal bender of some sort (Apexi SAFC is probably the cheapest)

this is a device which teaches the AFM how to lie to the ECU.

You turn up the boost, and 30 habibs arrive and run through the entry door..

AFM goes to the ECU "Hey bro.. I've just sent through 18 business men hey.."

Ecu goes "thanks mate. I'll give them the fuel needed"

this means that you get a leaner mixture and it all makes more power.

a better choice? after market computer.. there are lots to chose from.. do a search.

the after market computer (replacement for the ECU) is fully programmable and so can adjust timing too.. it can also mean that the coconut at the door doesn't have to lie, but instead, it is send on a few special classes and is taught how to count..

Hope this helps.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My EFR 8474 Black, made 800awhp on a roller dyno. at 25-26psi. E85. Shaft speed was around 106,000rpm 1.01 rear. The rear is maxed.  6 boost Turbosmart 60mm gate 3.5inch exhaust  Head is worked to the shithouse. Bain racing. VCam. 272 exhaust. RB28 - RB26 foundation.  You have an intake issue. Start getting proper data and I mean go back to the simple things.  - Pressure test your intake - Block off the Turbo BOV, you don't need it.  - Test pressure before and after your intercooler If your head is pretty stock, that is your issue. Especially if it is NA.  Take it off and spend $10k on it. 
    • Temp = -21.052 X Voltage + 114   That should get you pretty close. Calcs based on two points I could do easy calcs on (30 and 70 degrees).   It also says your sensor should only read as low as 9 degrees when it maxes out at 5V, and should hit a peak of 114 degrees at 0V... Just as a heads up if you were going really cold places, or wanting to be aware when temps really go up with it.
    • you, sir, are a prince. good on ya.   
    • You're not wrong but 5W30 at 100C is like 10 cSt vs 25 cSt for 10W60. If we think in terms of viscosity margin 10W60 will probably still be ok at 130C but 5W30 is probably too little. It's absolutely shocking how hot the oil gets in something like a stock FL5 from only ~3 minutes of use on the Nordschleife. I would not risk taking a car like that to anything remotely intense without a ton of work done for cooling. Heat shielding on the manifold/turbo/downpipe, oil coolers, etc. 
×
×
  • Create New...