Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

nah no bogan, im not into incest

i do like aussie muscle tho.. xu1/slr5000 toranas, chargers, xb/xc fords...never got into monaros tho... i also like american muscle (57' thunderbirds, 67 camaros, corvettes, pontiacs firebird & fieros etc)

they're the exception to the rule sadly, most australian (and american) cars are utter garbage. much to my chagrin.

-D

Edit - and while I detest 4wd's, f150s/250's are quite ruggedly over-engineered

I probably should of used italics. Each to their own, I do like some of the aussie and yank classics too

Anyone know why i would have shocking fuel economy? Getting roughly 250-300ks a tank.

That's shocking :P , i used to get about that with my car, not sure what its gonna be now after the retune etc.

yup new O2 sensor time, I replaced mine recently (4wire wired up to 3wire connection)

I love the Corvette Stingray, 67' is a classic but Id love a 77'. With a twin turbo 6.0litre V8.

Also love the TA-22 77' Celica, with a RB25det she'd be awesome

As for 4wd's - I hate the size of the things, but recently we got a make-believe 4wd, the Ford Escape 02'.

not a bad car whatsoever, very roomy inside (enough for 4x 200cm tall adults + luggage comfortably), but not that huge on the road. easy to handle.

very happy with the purchase at $6500 incl. tyres, airfare and petrol melb-adl. spending $500 on it atm thru Boostworx and its in top notch condition.

also dropping in the injectors, setting up the ecu and tune, on the 8th. cant wait. Boostworx of course

:P

Pulled the engine cover off the RS250 race bike today, found some bits floating about in there that shouldn't be! One part was a dowel pin or piston pin by the looks of it! :P The other part looks like a bit of the casing damaged by the pin. I reckon someone has intentionally dropped this pin into the oil cap hole to f**k the engine up. A bit pissed off as it could have been dangerous as it jammed up at about 170kph at the track at the time I noticed the noise. Lucky its only isolated to the clutch basket and kickstart gearing, and not the crank or barrels. Anyhow, now I gotta rip the engine down to make sure its all okay. :P

That sucks Rubes.

We sent an engine off to get rebuilt once, when we got it back they told us that they found a tappet in the sump :P

Yeah, I figure if I'm ripping the engine down for look for other problems, I might as well rebuild with new pistons etc, and AF1 heads. The engine is barely 500kms from its last rebuild, but its compromised now. And at 9,000rpm and 200kph on track, I can't afford a compromised engine. I'm also shopping for a spare engine too, just in case it pops in the middle of the season.

My racing budget is already hit hard now, and I haven't even started the season yet. :P

250-300 kms to the tank? ouch, i'd hate to see your fuel bill.

Managed to crack out a solid 600km this weekend on one tank in the 31 with 290,500 kms on the dash. Mind you, that was highway driving to Victoria.

250-300 kms to the tank? ouch, i'd hate to see your fuel bill.

Managed to crack out a solid 600km this weekend on one tank in the 31 with 290,500 kms on the dash. Mind you, that was highway driving to Victoria.

that was slipstreaming me jakey

and nice dirt turbo too at the first piss stop :thumbsup:

true jake, very true. a fridge like mine would be gangster as in your mo-bile

oh, and as for our discussion last nite on the maccas run

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sa...-1-t285710.html

does anyone know what would cause a battery to spark and go all smokey (on the negitive side) when trying to start a car?

happened on my drift car today, gonna get a new battery but not keen on it happening again.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...