Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The answer to all your questions there are, no idea :(

I will be pulling it out when i put the new turbo, and ecu in...so 1-2 months time. As for cost, no idea how much they go for, plus i may hang on to it for regency issues. Power wise...Krishy i think is still using a stock series 1 afm, so about 220rwkw, maybe a bit more.

very very nice power figure Dave specially when its untuned.....R33 AFM's are good for about 250rwkw's and that would be most likely maxing them out at that point....i am going to get the car tuned with the stock AFM and see how much we can squeeze out of it before swaping to a Z32....i am only making 211 atm.....Saturday should tell :(

can someone help me out ?

i bought an engine off this forum which was apparently working etc etc and had been pulled apart and put back together professionally but after putting it in the car and

being compression tested it has low compression (waiting on exact figures).

the guy i got it off said that when i picked it up it had a timing belt on it and the timing was set to tdc but ive come to find that it was missing idler and tensioner pulleys , not to mention

it was also missing oil seals around the back of the cam pulleys and its missing bolts off the intake manifold.

it also had heaps of missing coolant lines...

what can i do ?

ask for my money back ?

ask him to pay for repairs ?

shit mitch your situation is getting worse day by day mate.....well you can give the seller the 2 options and see what he says in regards to it....goodluck with it mate....just cant wait to see your ride back on the road

shit mitch your situation is getting worse day by day mate.....well you can give the seller the 2 options and see what he says in regards to it....goodluck with it mate....just cant wait to see your ride back on the road

you and me both man !

so over this crap

but i got some good news this morning

got accepted into tafe to study Cert II in Automotive Mechanical , starting jan next year :)

makes me think about my power figures....when i first got my car tuned..it still had its n/a fuel pump and reg...but had a early darkhalf rechipped ecu (before realtime) and rb20 redtop nics injectors...it pulled 175.4kw at the treads..but leaning out big time in the top end....this latest tune it had a bosch 040 pump and a vlt reg...but only pulled 150.....my first tune it was still using the same AFM as when the car was on lpg n/a and had it blown apart a few times.....i dont get it....when it was first tuned....it had the same fuel filter and plugs from over a year previously....me dont know...me too little

Dave, get in touch with luke

he still has his GTR pump, and glenn has a Z32 that he'll no longer need, solves both problems then

Correct, got a nice GTR fuel pump sitting here with your name on it. And Glenda has a Z32, problem solvered

can someone help me out ?

i bought an engine off this forum which was apparently working etc etc and had been pulled apart and put back together professionally but after putting it in the car and

being compression tested it has low compression (waiting on exact figures).

the guy i got it off said that when i picked it up it had a timing belt on it and the timing was set to tdc but ive come to find that it was missing idler and tensioner pulleys ,

messing around with the valve timing without knowing what you're doing can definitely have an effect on compression.......very easy to dial in and dial out compression by varying the valve timing slightly.

Might be running like crap though but if it's not running yet, be careful of any valve to piston contact

can someone help me out ?

i bought an engine off this forum which was apparently working etc etc and had been pulled apart and put back together professionally but after putting it in the car and

being compression tested it has low compression (waiting on exact figures).

the guy i got it off said that when i picked it up it had a timing belt on it and the timing was set to tdc but ive come to find that it was missing idler and tensioner pulleys , not to mention

it was also missing oil seals around the back of the cam pulleys and its missing bolts off the intake manifold.

it also had heaps of missing coolant lines...

what can i do ?

ask for my money back ?

ask him to pay for repairs ?

you can ask for anything but your chances of getting it are minimal since it was a private sale so it's a case of buyer beware. that's why buying engine off wreckers will cost you more because they generally come with a start up warranty, so in this case you would have been covered.

I'm still waiting for you to clear the air about your claims about TT. you read the post that SLED made and yet you didn;t see fit to reply.

SCANDY;

S1 R33 and R32 AFM will support around the 210-220rwkw, but the SII R33 (pink sticker, 3 wire plug) will support around the 235rwkw mark. i wouldn't pay more than $100 with the plug for one. I paid $55+20 for the plug for mine and if you look around you can still find them for that price.

Edited by D_Stirls
how far down south do you live Daniel and how soon do you need it on the road?

Me or Matty could tow it up for you possibly.

if i had a winch on my trailer we'd be right..........but i dont :) and i dont hav my winch on the car yet (or a front towbar point for that fact)

Correct, got a nice GTR fuel pump sitting here with your name on it. And Glenda has a Z32, problem solvered

nice. how much? :)

SCANDY;

S1 R33 and R32 AFM will support around the 210-220rwkw, but the SII R33 (pink sticker, 3 wire plug) will support around the 235rwkw mark. i wouldn't pay more than $100 with the plug for one. I paid $55+20 for the plug for mine and if you look around you can still find them for that price.

awesome. cheers dale. ill see what i can find.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...