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R32 Gtr Lumpy Idle Help Needed Please!

Japtastic-UK

By Japtastic-UK,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

there is no quick fix that is worth doing. testing for air leaks is easy. that would always be the FIRST thing I would test with high idle as it's by far the easiest to test for an eliminate. then move on to other stuff.

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jantolis Proficient

jantolis

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I still get smoke out the exhaust(cause it's running rich) when i give it sum because i drive like a pansy most of the time and the computer makes it self run rich when you gun it after driving like a pansy for a while.

jantolis Proficient

jantolis

Posted
Posted
no it doesn't. lean off boost, rich at any time the turbos are producing boost.

Well thats not my problem. I tried with carby cleaner today and not a single change in revs. Oh well. I guess i can live with it. I have since i had the car.

Japtastic-UK Enthusiast

Japtastic-UK

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Well this is not good :thumbsup: I've just finished replacing the gaskets, job went really well, did everything to the book and she is still exactly the same :D:):rant: I can't understand it, I'm honestly ready to give up, if I only knew wtf was going on here I'd able to fix it, I just can't work it out, help me please!

Japtastic-UK Enthusiast

Japtastic-UK

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Some progress today, I sprayed carb cleaner around the injectors and 2 of them are definantly leaking because once again the revs increased, still dont get why the revs are increasing and not dropping? either way this indicates they are leaking... so it looks like I did have 2 problems? still concerning that if I spray around the second and third set of throttle bodies that the revs also still increase? confusing to say the least.

So next on the list is new injector seals.

I have taken a pic of a pipe that has been blocked off, could this also be a problem?

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Japtastic-UK Enthusiast

Japtastic-UK

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Posted (edited)

Well I took the whole lot apart again and added some loctite copper gasket to every surface and my lumpy idle has gone :D still high idle though but no where near as high, it was 1900 now is it 13-1400.

I have taken some pictures of the way the FMIC is plumbed in, could this be a factor in my high idle problems? Can any one explain why that pipe is open and the other smaller one is the engine bay blocked off? I have reattached the small pipe to the correct nipple circled with no change in idle, but when connected the bov makes a ticking noise when revved not sure if this is normal or not? Please some one explain :) I feel like I am almost there, just need a little help :)

BOV.jpg

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Edited by Japtastic-UK
Richieb Collaborator

Richieb

Posted
Posted

Has anyone considered the O-Rings on the Injectors as a cause yet???.

These are pesky little critters, and they have you thinking all-sorts... !!!

Make sure ya get the right ones.. for instance the ones on my Sard Injectors are slightly longer(as such). one didn't seat correctly, and whammo..... had me foxed for a while.

As, is said, carby cleaner around the whole are does not isolate the problem, it just shows "Roughly" where it is.

p.s. check the silly little pipe at the end of the plenum is connected, and will hold a vacuum, as this could be damaged too!!(it happened to me)

Japtastic-UK Enthusiast

Japtastic-UK

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Posted (edited)

Update.

Pretty sure the injectors are not the problem I had them out and they still nice and rubbery, coated them with vaselin any way and they seem to seat well with no change in revs when sprayed with carb cleaner, the pipe at the end of the plenum is definantly on and fine, the lumpy idle is now gone which is very good, just the high idle is the problem now, I could handle 1100 but I'm getting 1300-1400

I am missing the recirculation tube circled red.

The part with the green arrow is open and can be see in the pic which is taken from the front of the car.

The part with the blue arrow is blocked.

Is this causing the high idle, what else could it be causing, why has it been done? Will be taking the BOV's off tomorrow to check for problems, the main question is, is it causing the high idle :P Sorry, lots of questions I know

gtr.jpg

Edited by Japtastic-UK
Richieb Collaborator

Richieb

Posted
Posted

Hmmm,

I reakon you should nipping all the little pipes with a pair of pliers to see if this changes any RPM.

Sounds air-leak-sh to me.

If buttefly's are closing correctly, its prob the cause then.

Just back-off all the adjuster screws for them. If I remember correctly there are 3 of them on the throttle body's, and one on the top where the cable attaches to the pulley.make sure they snap-shut correctly.

Also check the little pipe that is near front of LHS of plck(has a 80 degree bend in it is not leaking or perished.

But my attack would be nipping all pipes with pliers, as it sounds.. by the RPM, its a small pipe dis-lodged, not sealing or cracked.

Just try this first, get back to us.

Japtastic-UK Enthusiast

Japtastic-UK

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Posted (edited)

Didn't get a chance to get the BOV's off today, first on the list tomorrow, small improvemnt though, I spotted the standard boost pipe was in bad condition so changed it and the revs have dropped to 1150 :laugh: getting there :w00t:

Oh and the throttle buterflies are perfect, I had them disconnected and there was no change in revs.

Can any one explain how the hell to adjust the idle via the ECU I just can't work it out, loads of threads here and there asking about how to do it, but no one seems to know.

Edited by Japtastic-UK
Adriano Grand Master

Adriano

Posted
Posted

Is the pipe with the blue arrow blocked properly, and try blocking the green pipe, the BOV's will probably be getting sucked open at idle causing a leak. I would try to get the crossover pipe and recirclate the bov's as theywere intended.

SLIPPERY Experienced

SLIPPERY

Posted
Posted

"I am missing the recirculation tube circled red.

The part with the green arrow is open and can be see in the pic which is taken from the front of the car.

The part with the blue arrow is blocked.

Is this causing the high idle, what else could it be causing, why has it been done? Will be taking the BOV's off tomorrow to check for problems, the main question is, is it causing the high idle smile.gif Sorry, lots of questions I know

"

Having that tube doesnt affect anything. All it does is plug into the resonator, which goes to the airbox. Therefore, the air is unmetred, just before it gets metred again as it goes through the airbox.....if that makes sense.

I have my 90 join to the resonator taken off and other people on the site such as ronin09 have the whole assembly removed.

Just means the BOV is venting to atmo rather than venting to a pipe (less audible)...but im sure you knew that already :P

heller44 Mentor

heller44

Posted
Posted (edited)

Are you sure about that trav?

Looks like it feeds air from the bov's back in just before the turbos, in the last bit of piping before the compressor, making it metered air.

If a bov is leaking with the system under vacuum (idle) it would be pulling in un-metered air. Would this be giving the symptom that he has?

I'd try blocking the hose he's marked in green as the way to eliminate that though. (as Adriano pointed out earlier)

james.

Edited by heller44
Japtastic-UK Enthusiast

Japtastic-UK

Posted
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Posted (edited)

Update: After having a good look in that area I realised the pipe leading to the BOV's was blocked as well, meaning every time I let off the gas the air was forced back through the system and stalling the turbo's :D I know some ppl run like that but I've always been advised against it.

So I've plumbed it all back in how it was supposed to be but leaving the BOV's to vent to atmosphere, problem is one or both of them sound wrong/broken, they are blowing and whistling and making wired metallic noises, so I'll try and borrow some to test, hopefully that will cure all my problems, wierdly I did get a 800rpm idle for about 30secs after plumbing it all back in this way! Looks like I'm getting there slowly :P

Edited by Japtastic-UK

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