Brakes Still Crap - What's Next?

[giant]

found a pic

you can see the guides at the bottom of the photo

cheers russ

[r33cruiser]

i would be careful about the protective cover. i no its a good cooling mod. but is removing it for 1-2 weeks before it is damaged worth the $800 replacement fee.

-i learnt the hard way

[Beer Baron]

I wouldn't worry about it. I have run without the cover for about 3 years. even went off backwards at EC over the ripple strip and through the sand (rock) trap at about 160kph and no damage except my cooling duct (like giants but alloy) got bent into the rotor. which didn't damage anything except the cooling duct. I just ripped it off and all was ok

giant, do you know the part number for those pupies, and how much were they?

[Roy]

i would be careful about the protective cover. i no its a good cooling mod. but is removing it for 1-2 weeks before it is damaged worth the $800 replacement fee.

-i learnt the hard way

What did you damage? I have ran no shields for over 6 years...i lived at Windsor so plenty of dirty/gravel roads out there. I have spun my car at Wakefield and EC more then most would think humanly possible....and no dramas ever on my car.

In fact my only trouble has been at DECA doing motorkhanas on not so great surfaces where little pebbles have actually got caught between the rear rotor and the dust shields that i have not removed...so when i could be bothered i mean to rip them off as well.

So, interested to hear your experiences

[NickR33]

yeah I vote something is wrong with the install... I run similar tyres with the DS2500's and some RDA rotors on my GTSt, and I can do about 7-10 flying laps before I seem to get any brake issues (soft pedal) and my rotors certainly don't look like the pic posted... oh I still have the dust shields on too but I think Roy has just convinced me to ditch them... UAS do alloy brake air diversion ducts for GTR/GTSt's BTW, look just like the pic Giant posted

[noone]

sorry to hijack but do the stone covers really need to be cut off cant you unbolt em or is cutting really the best option

[ferni]

I couldn't see how to unbolt mine, so I cut them off! (Well Chris did, i just cheered).

Nick: You're in a gtst, bit lighter than a GTR... most gtst boys don't seem to have too much trouble with brakes. Bastards.

[gslrallysport]

I couldn't see how to unbolt mine, so I cut them off! (Well Chris did, i just cheered).

Nick: You're in a gtst, bit lighter than a GTR... most gtst boys don't seem to have too much trouble with brakes. Bastards.

QFM A1RM FTW!

[r33cruiser]

i made the mistake of driving thru road works, next to newly laid bituman. i had shit fling up, chip the disks, and actually got cemented on. had no choice but to replace all 4.

but that is wat u get when u drive over crap, if your careful you could be ok.

[noone]

Yeah would rather unbolt them than cut as it gives the option of putting them back on when/if required

guess I will just have to see how hard it is to get them off myself

bit worried it might effect hub spacing or something though will have to cut em if this is the case

[Beer Baron]

dude, it is piss easy. it's not major surgery. just cut em

[tacker]

found a pic

you can see the guides at the bottom of the photo

cheers russ

Nice job of fitting the dry sump in there!

I did the same thing with a piece of 75mm ducting hose and ran it along the castor arm and had the intake right below the bearing on the end of the castor arm.

[1400r]

they can be unbolted but almost everthing has to come off first

the rears include a mounting nut or bolt? for the handbrake cables and pads so you probably

would be better off cutting the rears and leaving the innner section still connected

Edited October 12, 2007 by 1400r

[noone]

Suspect I have a front bearing on the way out after the track effort last weekend in town

guess if I gotta do that unbolting the covers shouldn't be much more work.

will see

[Kinks]

Setup: R32 GTR, UAS 324mm rotor upgrade, DS2500s, Motul 600, rebuilt calipers

Here's what they look like after a track session;

Looks to me like the pad isn't even making contact with the inside of the rotor, it's still rusty! (and I can see the lip where the disc surface stops).

99% of the problem is going to be your calipers aren't square with the discs. That's why you're blueing the outside of the rotor so much.

[Chris-06R]

^^^hmm shouldn't you be using a larger pad? So that the pad makes use of the entire available disc surface?

I've done the 324mm upgrade on my gts-t and i'm using a bigger pad (had to machine the ends off it to get it to fit) but it makes use of the whole surface of the disc...

[MrStabby]

Looks to me like the pad isn't even making contact with the inside of the rotor, it's still rusty! (and I can see the lip where the disc surface stops).

That's normal with using the sumitomo calipers (from the 296mm rotor) with the larger 324mm rotor. If i got the brembos the pad would wipe the whole face.

^^^hmm shouldn't you be using a larger pad? So that the pad makes use of the entire available disc surface?

I've done the 324mm upgrade on my gts-t and i'm using a bigger pad (had to machine the ends off it to get it to fit) but it makes use of the whole surface of the disc...

I would be worried about the moving the radial centerline of the pad away from the centerline of the pistons (i know i'm not describing that well) as this would place uneven force on the top of the pistons. They're designed to generate force and move in a single dimension, so i dont know if they'd cope well in the long term. Again brembos are the best solution for that IMO.

Anyway i couldnt see any issues with the fitment, so i've removed the calipers, sanded the mating surfaces to marginally change the angle of the caliper and refitted. Now i need to find time for tie-rods + alignment then wakie again for another thrash. I'll take the DS3000s with me and swap them over if i have any more problems.

Thanks everyone.