Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I'm after some advice and opnion's for a good brake setup for my 89 R32 GT-R. The car is need of new pads and disc's on the front so I'm after some advice for my setup, all I'm pretty much after is a good street setup, though a little bit of overkill couldn't hurt. After doing a few search's and reading all the info (took hours) here's what i've come up with.

Some info about the car that might help.

Already has braided brake lines, HSD HR Coilovers, pineapples, 18x10 Work rims (265/35/18 rubber) 230kw @ all 4.. This is my daily driver at the moment, and the pads on the car are as dusty as hell leaving crap all over the wheels which is annoying. I'd like to minimize brake dust as much as possible.

Current brake setup;

Stock Calipers

Stock 296x32 rotors

Unknon pads

Unknown fulid

After taking in the info, here's what I've come up with;

Motul RBF600 fluid

DBA4000 replacement slotted rotors

(Retaining original Calipers)

Ferado DS2500 pads

Take the dust covers off the front

Ducting to the rotors

Does thing sound like a good setup? Opinions and advice would be great. Also, I've been looking into the caliper spacer that UAS sell so I can run a larger rotor, which to me sounds like a good idea bang for buck, I'm leaning towards getting the spacer kit with the larger DBA4000 slotted rotor, would this be worth doing? I've noticed a few people running the DBA5000 two piece rotor's with spacer kit, but I'm not planning to take the car to the track so it might be a waste for normal/street driving.

Cheers, mat.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188794-advice-r32-gtr-brake-setup/
Share on other sites

if it's for street then forget the DS2500s. endless SSS will be good for your plan. very quiet and not too dusty.

Thanks for your reply, I didnt look into the endless pads. Any advice on the spacer setup vs standard? I understand ' Caz ' on here was doing the adapters for a good price.. anyone know if he's still doing those? (Yes i've PM'd him) :)

For street, the stockers are fine. You dont need RBF600 (Dot 5.1 is half the price and should last longer), or the UAS kit (i have it and its an inelegant solution, a bit too much hacking to get it on IMO). Consider rebuilding the calipers tho to make sure they're in top shape. The kit for the front cost me $85 from Racebrakes. Rear was $40.

Likewise you dont need to worry about removing the dust covers or ducting.

Adam, What hacking was required to get the UAS kit on? I trial fitted the 343mm one on mine and the only thing you had to remove was the stone guards. Be keen to know if anything else is required as I have the kit for sale and don't want to sell someone a piece of crap.

Edited by jonn
Hey guys, I'm after some advice and opnion's for a good brake setup for my 89 R32 GT-R. The car is need of new pads and disc's on the front so I'm after some advice for my setup, all I'm pretty much after is a good street setup, though a little bit of overkill couldn't hurt. After doing a few search's and reading all the info (took hours) here's what i've come up with.

Some info about the car that might help.

Already has braided brake lines, HSD HR Coilovers, pineapples, 18x10 Work rims (265/35/18 rubber) 230kw @ all 4.. This is my daily driver at the moment, and the pads on the car are as dusty as hell leaving crap all over the wheels which is annoying. I'd like to minimize brake dust as much as possible.

Current brake setup;

Stock Calipers

Stock 296x32 rotors

Unknon pads

Unknown fulid

After taking in the info, here's what I've come up with;

Motul RBF600 fluid

DBA4000 replacement slotted rotors

(Retaining original Calipers)

Ferado DS2500 pads

Take the dust covers off the front

Ducting to the rotors

Does thing sound like a good setup? Opinions and advice would be great. Also, I've been looking into the caliper spacer that UAS sell so I can run a larger rotor, which to me sounds like a good idea bang for buck, I'm leaning towards getting the spacer kit with the larger DBA4000 slotted rotor, would this be worth doing? I've noticed a few people running the DBA5000 two piece rotor's with spacer kit, but I'm not planning to take the car to the track so it might be a waste for normal/street driving.

Cheers, mat.

If it is just street you are after I would recommend:

RDA rotors from the group buy section. They are much cheaper than the DBA series.

Ferodo pads, maybe not DS2500's, but a cheaper alternative. Look for something with a friction coefficient of about 0.5.

Any common or garden Dot 4 brake fluid - you don't need 600 degree stuff,

Leave the stone guards (Not dust covers!) on.

Forget about ducting.

Replace both front & rear pads.

For street, the stockers are fine. You dont need RBF600 (Dot 5.1 is half the price and should last longer), or the UAS kit (i have it and its an inelegant solution, a bit too much hacking to get it on IMO). Consider rebuilding the calipers tho to make sure they're in top shape. The kit for the front cost me $85 from Racebrakes. Rear was $40.

Likewise you dont need to worry about removing the dust covers or ducting.

What chopping needs to be done? Thats partly the reason why i think the 280 to 324mm kit like mine works better then the 296 to 324mm as the adaptor is more robust/meaty.

Interested to hear what had to be done

For street, the stockers are fine. You dont need RBF600 (Dot 5.1 is half the price and should last longer), or the UAS kit (i have it and its an inelegant solution, a bit too much hacking to get it on IMO). Consider rebuilding the calipers tho to make sure they're in top shape. The kit for the front cost me $85 from Racebrakes. Rear was $40.

Likewise you dont need to worry about removing the dust covers or ducting.

also keen to know what u mean by "hacking"

Adam, What hacking was required to get the UAS kit on? I trial fitted the 343mm one on mine and the only thing you had to remove was the stone guards.

The 343mm kit is fine - there's enough room to make a simple bracket. The 324s have an odd shape that moves the caliper out radially as well as down tangentially to get enough room. Its cleverly designed and nicely machined, but there just not enough room to make it an easy fit.

Re: hacking, as John P will tell you, they dont just bolt on. I had to do quite a bit of angle grinder work to get them into a position that allowed them to be bolted up. The bolt holes in the bracket dont line up until you've removed material on a number of surfaces. Also, you have to bend the brake line a lot to get it to reach. If i were to make the decision today i'd go for the justjap 330mm G4 kit over the UAS 324.

In this photo you can see the bottom of the lower bolt hole on the hub has been ground to allow the bracket to fit. I had to remove more that what's in this picture, i doubt this picture shows the finished job.

UAS324-mini.JPG

also you have to be real careful with fitting of brake caliper mounts and mods!

i saw a brake mount break away and the caliper swung around and took out the lower control arm ! driver was at speed & in an instant had limited steering and loss of brakes.!!!

cheers russ

Re: hacking, as John P will tell you, they dont just bolt on. I had to do quite a bit of angle grinder work to get them into a position that allowed them to be bolted up. The bolt holes in the bracket dont line up until you've removed material on a number of surfaces. Also, you have to bend the brake line a lot to get it to reach. If i were to make the decision today i'd go for the justjap 330mm G4 kit over the UAS 324.

In this photo you can see the bottom of the lower bolt hole on the hub has been ground to allow the bracket to fit. I had to remove more that what's in this picture, i doubt this picture shows the finished job.

UAS324-mini.JPG

interesting, thanks heaps for your input...

bending the brake lines wont matter with me because im going to use braided lines and im fairly handy with a old angle grinder so that wouldnt bother me too much. still seems a bit dodgy that u pay decent money for something that doesnt fit properly. i would expect it from china but not a aussie workshop

or another option would be to get a 343mm kit but would there be rda rotors available at this size, or any other options other than dba?!?

but will 343mm calipers fit under 17 by 9 buddy clubs?!?

Edited by Cerbera
or another option would be to get a 343mm kit but would there be rda rotors available at this size, or any other options other than dba?!?

but will 343mm calipers fit under 17 by 9 buddy clubs?!?

Should fit. Check the ap racing website for their template for that rotor size with the CP5555 caliper. The 6 pot CP5555 is larger than the 4 pot Nissan Brembo or the Sumitomo.

In any case you can readilly compare the caliper sizes.

But I don't know of a cheap 343 rotor....

There are a few cheapish 343 and 340mm rotors around. And you will find that even if the likes of hte AP CP5555 is bigger, it actually saddles the rotor better meaning less clearance is required over the rotor diameter.

The std rotor may fit inside a 17" wheel but it would almost have to be a GTR esque offset. Also, the pad area and swept area of the Sumitomo caliper means that the 343mm rotor is an even bigger compromise then the 324mm rotor with std caliper.

Really, in my eyes the 324mm rotor std caliper upgrade is brilliant for R32, Z32 and S13/14/15, but not quite as good for R32 GTR and R33 GTS25t etc.

It works for the 296mm rotor crowd, but you may as welljust find the pennies and either grab some GTR Brembos or flog off you 296mm setup to a silvia owner and get a Z32 or R32 caliper to run with the 324mm rotor and bracket

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What's on the front of their building?
    • Jax Tyres Smithfeild Ive gone there a few time, well for tyres. on my 3rd visit I spoke to the dude and told how i just got slugged for rotors, brakes ect. His reply was golden; have you read whats on the front of the building. Never forgot it.       before picture, good friend got all these goodies installed.  Well time to study, servicing, maintenance all before this weekend driving lesson.  
    • Hello, first of, I’ve looked at many threads on this code but none have helped me, if you know one that will help me feel free to post a link.   Now to my problem. Recently I was driving and noticed the check engine light came on. I went home and did the test to see what code it gave. I got the 21 code but everything seems fine with the car, no misfire, idle is good, acceleration is the same as when I bought it. I mean no signs of obvious failure. If no misfire is happening I can rule out the coil packs right? Which is about 98% of posts saying it is. If anyone has had this happen and found the issues let me know please. No other lights are on.   The car WAS due for an oil change. I since then changed it so idk if that triggers code 21. Either way it hasn’t turned off.
    • Your both right, it may hold a bit longer then.  Soon I need to change the synchros, should I fit the billet plate while I'm at it? Or just a waste of money?
    • Some of the east coast US Stagea got together this past weekend at Lime Rock Park in CT for Grid Life Circuit Legends. This is probably my favorite pic of the shoot with @Morgan.Mundahl on IG. Hope we get more stags out next year! i think I spotted 5 other than my own at the event. 
×
×
  • Create New...