Jump to content
SAU Community

New Stagea

silva33

By silva33,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

silva33 Mentor

silva33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thats what I was thinking the GTRS but there are more things to consider with the Stagea as being AWD there is no issue with traction so something like a HKS 3037 may be an option or a large garrett GT3040 etc, but I'm thinking GTRS as with the added weight the larger turbos may be even laggier than they would be on a skyline.

mitchy_ Grand Master

mitchy_

Posted
Posted
I will be modifying the stagea... ther only decisions im going to have to make is which turbo and ecu.. Im thinking PFC.. but Im not sure if ill go HKS GTRS or something like a GT30?? What do you guys think?? are the GT30's really laggy? I mean in the Stagea do you really notice the extra lag because they are so heavy?

just put a jun stroker kit with a T04Z in it, and do limiter launches.. no lag, hey brad? :w00t:

pixel8r Mentor

pixel8r

Posted
Posted
I will be modifying the stagea... ther only decisions im going to have to make is which turbo and ecu.. Im thinking PFC.. but Im not sure if ill go HKS GTRS or something like a GT30?? What do you guys think?? are the GT30's really laggy? I mean in the Stagea do you really notice the extra lag because they are so heavy?

I have a GT30 in my stagea, along with other mods (see my sig). Last tune was 160awkw at just 9psi. I've since changed the boost controller over to a turbotech (recommended by many on these forums, including me) and noticed much improved response and it holds boost better - probably running somewhere around 9-10psi still.

The GT30 is laggy compared to stock. It'll boost up about 500-800rpm later in the revs than when it was stock.

It depends on how you define lag too. For overall speedy response any time any situation you cant beat the stock turbo.

However if I plant my foot at any intersection, even without revving it beforehand, it will be happily revving over 4000rpm by the time I reach the other side of the intersection. I had my boost controller set to 12psi previously and it would hit this figure between 3600 and 4000rpm. I think when it was stock it would hit 6psi by 3000rpm or maybe a bit less, so when you put it all in perspective its not too bad.

On the plus side, the GT30 goes a LOT harder than the stock turbo and pulls all the way to the redline.

My car is auto so with a manual and pfc or at least some kind of ignition timing control you could reduce the lag even further.

And like webng said, the fact that it wont be building much boost (if any) below 2400rpm means you will save on fuel. It certainly wont be enough to pay off the turbo but it will make you feel better every time you visit the servo :P

I do find myself wanting less lag at times but on the whole the gt30 was a good choice. I'd maybe try a GCG high-flow if I was to do it again. hope this helps.

wolverine Grand Master

wolverine

Posted
Posted

we have a GT-RS on our car and it is a nice bit of kit. slightly more power everywhere than a GCG hi-flow (but it is slightly more expensive). if money is no object the HKS 2835ProS would be pretty nice with a tiny response penalty but higher flow available on both sides of the turbo (ie more efficient).

i wouldn't want anything much larger on a street stagea due to the extra weight you need to lug around.

a GT30 specced correctly (or the more exxy but similar HKS 3037 ProS) with 260 deg tomei poncams to bring the boost threshold down would be ok but there is a little bit more work and time fitting a GT30.

think carefully, as it is an expensive exercise buying one that doesn't suit what you want, however, don't try and do it on the cheap.

...and don't get suckered into bigger is better cos it just aint so.

silva33 Mentor

silva33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah im thinking GTRS at the moment. I had an R33 in the past with a HKS 2535 running 244rwkw and it was amazing how responsive and punchy the car was... there was stuff all lag and it just pulled!!!

If it were another skyline then i would go GTRS, the only reason i am thinking about the larger turbo is because I dont know if i am going to be happy with the 250 - 260 rwkw the GTRS will produce in a heavier car.. I'm happy to spend the right money on the right setup but i just dont want to spend the money and take the GTRS to its capacity then realise I want more...

Does anyone have any 1/4 mile times with different turbos and dyno graphs?? terminal speeds etc???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Crank Motorsports Front Axles

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Pay careful attention to the kinematics of that upper arm. The bloody things don't work properly even on a normal stock height R32. Nissan really screwed the pooch on that one. The fixes have included changing the hole locations on the bracket to change the angle of the inner pivot (which was fairly successful but usually makes it impossible to install or remove the arm without unbolting the bracket from the tower, which sucks) and various swivelling upper arm designs. ALL the swivelling upper arm designs that look like a capital I (with serifs) suck. All of them. Some of them are in fact terribly unsafe. Even the best one of them (the old UAS design) shat itself in short order on my car. The only upper arm that works as advertised and is pretty safe is the GKTech one. But it is high maintenance on a street car. I'm guessing that a 600HP car as (stupidly, IMO) low as you are going is not going to be a regular driver. So the maintenance issues on suspension parts are probably not going to be a problem. But you really must make sure that however your fairly drastically modded suspension ends up, that the upper arms swing through an arc that wants to keep the inner and outer bolts parallel. If the outer end travels through an arc that makes that end's bolt want to skew away from parallel with the inner bolt, you will build up enormous binding and compressing forces in the bushes, chew them out and hate life. The suspension compliance can actually be dominated by the bush binding, not the spring rate! It may be the case that even something like the GKTech arm won't work if your suspension kinematics become too weird, courtesy of all the cut and shut going on. Although you at least say there's no binding now, so maybe you're OK. Seeing as you're in the build phase, you could consider using R33/4 type upper arms (either that actual arm, OEM or aftermarket) or any similar wishbone designed to suit your available space, so alleviate the silliness of the R32 design. Then you can locate your inner pivots to provide the correct kinematics (camber gain on compression, etc).
    • Josh K.
      Crank Motorsports Front Axles

      By Josh K. · Posted

      The frontend wouldn't go low enough because the coilover was max low and the upper control arm would collapse into itself and potentially bottom out in the strut tower. I made a brace and cut off the kingpin and then moved the upright down 1.25" and welded. i still have to finish but this gives an idea. Now I can have a normal 3.25" of shock travel and things aren't binding. I'm also dropping the lower arm and tie rod 1.25".
    • Josh K.
      Crank Motorsports Front Axles

      By Josh K. · Posted

      Motor and body mockup. Wheel fitment and ride height not set. Last pic shows front ride height after modifying the front uprights to make a 1.25" drop spindle.
    • Josh K.
      Crank Motorsports Front Axles

      By Josh K. · Posted

      Here's Logans Silvia with R32 Drivetrain, mine will be slightly lower (more angle). He was constantly blowing the RH axles at around 16deg. I want to avoid this.    
    • Duncan
      NC MX5

      By Duncan · Posted

      sorted
×
×
  • Create New...