Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there,

I have almost finished rebuilding my rb26dett motor with forged pistons, metal head gasket etc, and I am now on to replacing the turbos. The problem is I am not sure which ones to get. I am down to the usual three options......

Garrett 2860 -7's

Garrett 2860 -5's

&

HKS GT-SS's

I do not want more than 300kw's at the wheels with my set up. I want a smooth ride, and I don't particularly want to pay too much.

With the -5's, I've heard that unless you want a ridiculous ammount of powerm, they lag and the drive can be uncomfortable. This seems a shame because a lot of people have also told me to get them. I also have noticed that I might be able to get some quite cheaply.

The -7's are meant to be really close to the standard turbos which seems strange, because I would have thought I could run a lot of boost with them quite safely and I can't with the current set up.

I've heard really good things about the GT-SS's but they also cost a fair bit.

I was wondering.....

How smooth is the ride with the -5's, especially with my power requirements?

How limited are the -7's?

And, how much better are the GT-SS's considering the price?

I can't afford 2530's

Any help would be great because I can see positives and negatives in all the setups so far.

Cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189463-gtr-r32-turbo-choice/
Share on other sites

Hi there,

I have almost finished rebuilding my rb26dett motor with forged pistons, metal head gasket etc, and I am now on to replacing the turbos. The problem is I am not sure which ones to get. I am down to the usual three options......

Garrett 2860 -7's

Garrett 2860 -5's

&

HKS GT-SS's

I do not want more than 300kw's at the wheels with my set up. I want a smooth ride, and I don't particularly want to pay too much.

With the -5's, I've heard that unless you want a ridiculous ammount of powerm, they lag and the drive can be uncomfortable. This seems a shame because a lot of people have also told me to get them. I also have noticed that I might be able to get some quite cheaply.

The -7's are meant to be really close to the standard turbos which seems strange, because I would have thought I could run a lot of boost with them quite safely and I can't with the current set up.

I've heard really good things about the GT-SS's but they also cost a fair bit.

I was wondering.....

How smooth is the ride with the -5's, especially with my power requirements?

How limited are the -7's?

And, how much better are the GT-SS's considering the price?

I can't afford 2530's

Any help would be great because I can see positives and negatives in all the setups so far.

Cheers!

I just got some -7's put on last week on friday. They are the same spec as the GT-SS turbos. They have a bigger turbine housing and the same compressor as the standard turbos. I noticed a fair bit of difference in power still. Not anythying like 100rwk or anything but more. Lag is almost the same except it's alot smoother than the standard turbos. Not so much nothing, nothing, nothing then power.

I've heard -5's are laggy aswell but mechaninc said they are great to get more horsepower and wanted me to get them but i didn't want them. So if you want more horsepower get the -5's if you want better response get -7's.

-7's is what you want but you'll need to get some 1.2bar actuators to go with them. (they come standard with the -5's and the GT-SS I think but not with the -7's).

There are no -5's left anyways for god knows how long.

But guys are making 340+ kw's on -7's and built engines (with 100RON fuel) so just run less boost and you'll have exactly what you want with a nice responsive ride.

-7's is what you want but you'll need to get some 1.2bar actuators to go with them. (they come standard with the -5's and the GT-SS I think but not with the -7's).

There are no -5's left anyways for god knows how long.

But guys are making 340+ kw's on -7's and built engines (with 100RON fuel) so just run less boost and you'll have exactly what you want with a nice responsive ride.

Thanks Snowman,

I've also heard that I'd also need to get some gaskets to go with the -7's before fitting. So what is the overall extra cost with the -7's that I can get for $2490 after adding actuators and gaskets to the price?

because I can get GT-SS's with gaskets and apparantly these actuators for about $3100 I think.

-7's is what you want but you'll need to get some 1.2bar actuators to go with them. (they come standard with the -5's and the GT-SS I think but not with the -7's).

I think the SS's have 1 bar actuators aswell.

Yep

-7 or GT-SS, simple as that for the 300rwkw region.

There is loads of info about both turbos, take the time to search.

IMO the GT-SS by the time they are landed works out almost the same as buying the Garretts locally + gaskets/actuators etc etc.

So take whichever you want as they are near enough to the same anyhow.

Yep

-7 or GT-SS, simple as that for the 300rwkw region.

There is loads of info about both turbos, take the time to search.

IMO the GT-SS by the time they are landed works out almost the same as buying the Garretts locally + gaskets/actuators etc etc.

So take whichever you want as they are near enough to the same anyhow.

Thanks mate,

I was wondering if that would be the case.

Trust turbos r excellent.. unless u argue with ppl who dont like it.. i dont like them.. basically because theyre not ball bearing or water cooled.. but ive got a few friends who run the trust gear and i gotta say.. its pretty impressive stuff.

I might pick up a pair of 517z's for myself.. and ive seen a few dynos of them capable of around 340kw which is pretty impressive for a tiny low mount turbo/s :D

There are no -5's left anyways for god knows how long.

Yeah how bs is that....all i can say is i picked a good time for a rebuild. :D

Fingers crossed they arrive soon..

Yeah back on track check out the rb26 turbo upgrade thread, theres plenty of people making your target power with a range or turbos.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Given you're running a 2.8 and my 2.5 is not really like for like, I suspect there could be a bit more timing you could give it. What is the kW yield per degree you're putting through it? Here's my E85 map to give you an idea, where it was I could still get another 3~4kW per degree thrown at it.  
    • It turns out that Setrab make a fan specifically for the oil cooler which is great and I've installed it with minimal swearing. I removed my 2x 12in push fans from the front of my aircon condenser and wired them into this. My main thermo fans kick on when I use the aircon anyway and would effectively already be working as puller fans through the condensor which is infront of the rad. The push fans (understandably) didn't really do much in the config they were previously in so now they're out. Now we're on to the "Oil fan doesn't really do much either!". Yes I'll duct it next if it does nothing in heavy use which it shouldn't. But hey, the object exists and fits great and is cool. Let me have this. The car is still in the "do my fittings leak oil now? do my wheels actually rub?" phase. I did a spirited drive on them and didn't hear or feel anything. Then I got back home and noticed there were grind marks on the inside of the rims, though I couldn't see where they were touching I got out the grinder and attacked the suspects. Note: I do not know how to use a grinder. Then I realised I had dragged my new rims across my concrete driveway before I did this drive. I didn't think I had damage at that time when I briefly looked...... but remembered this occurred after I did all the angle grinding. The grinding on the wheels in some very specific spots. It's not around the whole rim for example, which lines up with dragging it across concrete more than hitting a suspension component for even 1 full rotation. So everything is currently painted and taped up and I need to test it some more to see if it really IS rubbing, but from inside the car it doesn't feel like it is. In other news I attempted to do a before and after comparison of the heads/cam upgrade thing. Dynos lie, everything is in different measurements. Here is the data from the sandown back straight. Car go faster than before. Vroom vroom.
    • Here's my base ignition. +3 correction to redline when shooting water/meth which is always on. Looking at my old ignition table, I should be able to add 1-2 degree's next time I'm on the dyno.  Let me know your thoughts. 
    • Given what I know now - same haha, but this was 12 years ago with second hand 740cc Nismo injectors in my S15 daily, I was too busy hunting elsewhere for the issue to even look at the injectors, running through some cleaner was a happy coincidence haha
    • Not a terrible idea. But if I ever had concerns that my injectors were sufficiently dirty to be causing me a problem, they would be out of the engine and onto the actual injector cleaner/testing bench.
×
×
  • Create New...