Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R33GOD - I just dropped my 33 off at Unigroup up here in Sydney.

Last time it was there they fitted the hi-flow and EBC.

Now Im going 550 injectors, z32 AFM and retune so I'll let you know how mine goes :rofl:

sweet as man. do u have the same hiflow as me, standard hiflow or max oversize vg30?

lemme know how much torque u make also?

cheers :)

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

my car made 200.3kw @ 16psi on a slide hiflow which i thought was awesomely crap.

afr's were 13.5:1 till boost hit, then 12:1 the rest of the way home.

base timing was 21 degrees.

and that was on the vg30 max oversize jobbie.

my car made 200.3kw @ 16psi on a slide hiflow which i thought was awesomely crap.

afr's were 13.5:1 till boost hit, then 12:1 the rest of the way home.

base timing was 21 degrees.

and that was on the vg30 max oversize jobbie.

damn man now thats low. gotta be a faulty turbz for sure

wat mods do you have?

all the usual mods.

damn man now thats low. gotta be a faulty turbz for sure

well gcg said that the turbo was showing over 50,000km of wear after only 5,000 of driving with it.

they also said that the housings were bored out of spec for the size of wheel they used, so i figured that the turbo would have had to spin faster to reach a certain psi at any given rpm.

the turbo ive got in there now is a GCG hiflow thats bigger than their average. because the housings were machined out of spec, they had to use a bigger wheel and a garrett GT series core. so now ive got a turbo rated at 450-500hp and 25psi.

Good question!

standard hi flow me thinks!

Hey Chris... I bought the Stage 3 max oversize high flow off Slide..... there was two options and I chose the largest.... Not sure how to check if that was what I actually was sent though... but I assumed it was correct with my dyno figures.....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...