Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yes with a spacer it works... not real well we found out (on the car pictured) as the internal gate (small housing) ones are still having some boost issues.

Car now has a T67 kit ready to go on... better response with same peak power :nyaanyaa:

post-34927-1193194099_thumb.jpg

^^^ thats engine belongs to my mate leigh, its a 25/30, its on custom mounts in an r32 and its externally gated so I dont really think this is a true example of space within an r33, but yes I have seen it done before, look in the rb25 performance thread, there are a few there if I remember properly

Hey trent, is that Justins car? I thought he had a gt35 kit on it, or are you talking about his previous turbo, he told me he loved it, could you dig up some pics of the dyno sheets please, I am very interested to see how it comes out. Cheers

Edited by ardie

Trent,

The GT30 .6 with a larger flapper is now an option directly from garrett. ~$100 more than the non M version.

The .6 GT30 rears pretty much always creep boost slightly when you run a split style dump; the problem is when the flapper opens it partially blocks the pipes opening (usually ~2"). That combined with the flat area's around the edge cause turbulence and as a result back pressure so on to the world of boost creep we go. :thumbsup:

So either flare out the 2" pipe so that it meets the edge of the flange or run a bell open style dump.

And no more boost creep. :)

--------

With regards to spacers I went with a single 10mm spacer. Rotated the comp cover and slightly massaged the exhaust manifold heat shield.

IC pipes line up perfectly and I've also chopped down the std turbo heat shield so that it fits up.

i have everything you will need for sale going real cheap.

spacer, gaskets, stainless oil feed and return line, and full mandrel bent stainless dump pipe to suit low mounting a

gt30 / gt35 in a r33. will happily flow over 350 rwkws.

ive run 27psi thru my low mounted gt3582r-iw and had no boost control issues, using this dump pipe.

the only reason i took it off is cause i went high mount.

Cubes and anyone else with a GT30 on a twincam 30.. how does it go?

I have been considering a GT30R for my 30 (further down the track.. need to pay off the conversion first :rolleyes:) and was wondering how it would go bolting up to stock manifold.

Cubes is yours internally gated?

Yeah mines the GT3076 .82 with internal gate.

On mine I've had the rb20det turbo, vg30det turbo and now the GT30 .82.

A few mates have had the GT35r .82 and 1.06.

Driveability wise behind the manual the GT30 .8 cannot be beaten. Its extremely enjoyable to drive. Pulls strong to its 7k rev cut and spools off idle. 1100-1200rpm in a low gear its in positive pressure.

Compared to the stock turbo its lost no drive ability; it still idles off the lights and makes a good 8psi just before 2.5k; goes instantly without it bogging down or waiting for the turbo to spool. Rolling on the throttle in any gear has the turbo instantly on boost and screaming down the road.

In comparison to the GT35's behind a manual they do have that big turbo feel and tend to lack the instant response when rolling on the throttle.

For a 5speed streeter GT30 FTW IMO. :rolleyes:

If your after a bolt on type setup where you don't want to play with aftermarket exh manifolds then the GT30 really is the way to go as it just happens to max out when the std exhaust manifold does, that being low 300's.

The GT35r really is a waste unless you have intentions of a nice high mount OR its behind an auto. The auto's soak up the larger turbo's really really well. A couple of mates have had the GT35 on their rb30det's with stock exhaust manifolds they don't make any more power on the same boost level just simply lag more. So as I said it really is a waste if you wish to have a stockish looking setup.

I've got a set of 265duration 8.9mm lift cams soon to go in; I'm hoping it picks up around 25-30rwkw on the same boost. A mate recently dropped in a set of 254's and picked up 26rwkw so I'll be stoked if mine does also. :thumbsup:

i have everything you will need for sale going real cheap.

spacer, gaskets, stainless oil feed and return line, and full mandrel bent stainless dump pipe to suit low mounting a

gt30 / gt35 in a r33. will happily flow over 350 rwkws.

ive run 27psi thru my low mounted gt3582r-iw and had no boost control issues, using this dump pipe.

the only reason i took it off is cause i went high mount.

obviously not a 0.6 housing though, where the trouble is the larger ones work fine but need a calender to map response :rolleyes:

Yeah mines the GT3076 .82 with internal gate.

On mine I've had the rb20det turbo, vg30det turbo and now the GT30 .82.

A few mates have had the GT35r .82 and 1.06.

Driveability wise behind the manual the GT30 .8 cannot be beaten. Its extremely enjoyable to drive. Pulls strong to its 7k rev cut and spools off idle. 1100-1200rpm in a low gear its in positive pressure.

Compared to the stock turbo its lost no drive ability; it still idles off the lights and makes a good 8psi just before 2.5k; goes instantly without it bogging down or waiting for the turbo to spool. Rolling on the throttle in any gear has the turbo instantly on boost and screaming down the road.

In comparison to the GT35's behind a manual they do have that big turbo feel and tend to lack the instant response when rolling on the throttle.

For a 5speed streeter GT30 FTW IMO. :rolleyes:

If your after a bolt on type setup where you don't want to play with aftermarket exh manifolds then the GT30 really is the way to go as it just happens to max out when the std exhaust manifold does, that being low 300's.

The GT35r really is a waste unless you have intentions of a nice high mount OR its behind an auto. The auto's soak up the larger turbo's really really well. A couple of mates have had the GT35 on their rb30det's with stock exhaust manifolds they don't make any more power on the same boost level just simply lag more. So as I said it really is a waste if you wish to have a stockish looking setup.

I've got a set of 265duration 8.9mm lift cams soon to go in; I'm hoping it picks up around 25-30rwkw on the same boost. A mate recently dropped in a set of 254's and picked up 26rwkw so I'll be stoked if mine does also. :P

Low 300's being in kW or HP? I'm only chasing 400rwhp as I don't think the standard rods will hold up to much more :( Would prefer to keep it as simple as possible and by the sounds of it the GT30 will be a response monster!

I'm currently running a stock 25 turbo, that spools from idle and gives me full boost by 2000rpm. Got the 25 actuator on there until it gets tuned in an attempt to keep the boost down.. gives me about 6psi but creeps up to 12psi by 6000rpm if I keep my boot into it. When it gets tuned I'll put the 20 actuator on and set the ebc to run 12psi all the time.. should be an absolute ball tearer off the line but I predict the 25 turbo will disintegrate at some point :thumbsup:

kw not hp. :thumbsup:

The std rods hold 450-500rwkw providing you keep rev's safe. Not much more than 7k.

You will be happy wth the gt30 then. HEAPS more mid range and top end and low end hardly differs. :rolleyes:

The only thing you do notice with the larger turbo is the slight drop in response due to the inertia of the larger wheels etc. But its really nothing.

obviously not a 0.6 housing though, where the trouble is the larger ones work fine but need a calender to map response :P

ahh ok whatever...

im running a fully built r33 auto with a 3k high stall so response isnt really an issue.

wheel spin is my only issue.

Yeah unsure what URAS means by calendar to map response.

I shoved a cheap bleeder on mine and it brought up boost super quick nice and responsive.

URAS you will find the so called response problems are related to the garrett 1bar cans that have the kink in the arm. Speak to any workshop turbo specialist who's worked with them and they will say the same.

rbmans IW GT35 1.06 makes 1bar by 3900rpm behind a manual, std cams. No response issues there.

dangermans gt35 + auto is an awesome combination. GT35 + auto FTW.

Ext Gate FTL. FTW for those that have NFI.

Hey trent, is that Justins car? I thought he had a gt35 kit on it, or are you talking about his previous turbo, he told me he loved it, could you dig up some pics of the dyno sheets please, I am very interested to see how it comes out. Cheers

JT's car has a T28 flanged HKS GT3037 Pro S from what I can work out.

0.7 T04S comp was put on (NFI if that is standard HKS), then long and short is that it was a surge queen.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 😂 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
×
×
  • Create New...