Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

10" wide is near impossible on the front unless you get much wider guards and beat the underskirt so there's no rubbing... maybe even tub it.

Kakimoto_front.jpg

we run 17x10.5's in the front and 13" in the back, but that's with a widebody, castor adjustment arms and rewelding new skirting to clear the tyres/wheels. that's so we get lots of traction on a track car.

10" wide 19's is kinda counter productive.... the profile would be so low you'd get no flex at all, would really affect the handling.

9inch on front with 215 stretched fit..

9.5 on the back with 225 stretched fit.. no need to lip the gaurds..

or just drive up a really high mountain and drive on some ice and get a similar effect.

235 on 9's and 255 on 9.5's are good, wouldnt go any lower than 225 on a 9"

im running 19s with 8.5/245 front and 9.5/275 rear no probs on stock suspension but im lowering soon and the workshop said id have to get the back lip most definetly

19by10inch all round seems quiet extreme.

even if i hit a nasty bump to fast up front i hear a bump/scrape.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...