Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I don' know why, of recent my car is just shutting down all of a sudden at any given time... I'll be driving heaps with no issues, then from nowhere, it just shuts down... isn't really a stall as far I can see - all the warning dash lights just goes on and the car just shuts down... it's been happening very often... my car is due for a major service next month, but would this be any reason for this to happen? What can I do to fix?

Many thanks for your help.

Regards,

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

so its like a power cut? you lose all power and engine stops?

Yeah, that's correct mate... from nowhere, it just cuts sometimes...

Although not too often, but way too frequent for comfort... like every 2-3 days, I'll be driving and it'll just stop - this can be very dangerous... I got a feeling it's the air meters.... I got a BOV and a POD and front mount too...

maybe check your battery leads. that prolly wont have anything to do with it but just a thought! maybe try putting stock bov back on for a while? i thought if it had to do with the air meters it would idle crap tho! sounds very weird. let me know how ya get on.

maybe check your battery leads. that prolly wont have anything to do with it but just a thought! maybe try putting stock bov back on for a while? i thought if it had to do with the air meters it would idle crap tho! sounds very weird. let me know how ya get on.

Yeah, thanks mate... I thought it was the battery too as the battery light jumps up just moments before it dies... happens infrequently but too damn often to pose a dangerous threat to safety. I might buy a new battery and see how that goes.

With the BOV, I don' think it is this... as I have had this issue even with the stock BOV, the 2nd BOV and this new HKS BOV... there is no Boost leak as I have taken the car for a spin a few times, actually is more responsive.

I've checked for any loose hoses, unplugged wires etc and all seems to work fine... don't know what the problem is... I will see what other suggestions people have and well, might have to bring it to the mechanic if all fails.

Thanks for your help mate.

you dont have an safc do you?

Hi mate - yeah, I got an after market ECU but not a SAFC (that I know of anyways)... I know what you thinking of telling me - get it tuned with the SAFC, right? Yeah, I thought of that but no I don't have one... thanks mate..

Change to a new battery and see what happens mate. My brother's car used to just shut off out of nowhere while driving, he replaced the battery and the car's back to normal.

Good luck!

Cheers mate, I'll do that, I think... I think the battery isn't holding charge correctly...

However, I read off another thread (that person had similiar problems to me) that it could also be the coilpacks... someone recommended that that person get Spitfire Coil Packs; he did and it's fixed the problem - what do you think?

I'm by no way a mechanic, what do coilpacks do and where can I get some - how much would I expect to pay?

Cheers,

Hi mate - yeah, I got an after market ECU but not a SAFC (that I know of anyways)... I know what you thinking of telling me - get it tuned with the SAFC, right? Yeah, I thought of that but no I don't have one... thanks mate..

no i was going to say that i've had to find a problem on a friends car similar to yours and it turned out that the safc main power connection was a crap connection, so on occasions it would loose power for a second then come back on. but when it was loosing power the car wouldn't get an afm signal and just stall.

once your car is running te altanator should be producing enough charge to run your car fine regardless of the battery condition.

i wouldn't be looking at coil packs yet. doesn't sound like your problem is to do with coils. if you had a faulty coil pack your car would just run like crap (sound like a wrx). and the chances of more than one coil having an intermittent fault at exactly the same time is unlikely.

but it could be an intermittent fault with your air flow meter. if the ecu looses signal from the afm you car will just stall. do you have access to another afm to try out? what aftermarket ecu are you running by the way?

no i was going to say that i've had to find a problem on a friends car similar to yours and it turned out that the safc main power connection was a crap connection, so on occasions it would loose power for a second then come back on. but when it was loosing power the car wouldn't get an afm signal and just stall.

once your car is running te altanator should be producing enough charge to run your car fine regardless of the battery condition.

i wouldn't be looking at coil packs yet. doesn't sound like your problem is to do with coils. if you had a faulty coil pack your car would just run like crap (sound like a wrx). and the chances of more than one coil having an intermittent fault at exactly the same time is unlikely.

but it could be an intermittent fault with your air flow meter. if the ecu looses signal from the afm you car will just stall. do you have access to another afm to try out? what aftermarket ecu are you running by the way?

Man, I wish I knew something that could help... I really don't know much... aftermarket ECU is Haltech... no power fc...

Man, I guess I'll have to bring this to the shops...

Thanks so much for your help mate.

Cheers mate, I'll do that, I think... I think the battery isn't holding charge correctly...

However, I read off another thread (that person had similiar problems to me) that it could also be the coilpacks... someone recommended that that person get Spitfire Coil Packs; he did and it's fixed the problem - what do you think?

I'm by no way a mechanic, what do coilpacks do and where can I get some - how much would I expect to pay?

Cheers,

I don't think coilpacks are the problem here, but you'll be looking at about $500, $650 or something like that for splitfires.

once your car is running te altanator should be producing enough charge to run your car fine regardless of the battery condition.

Yeah, that's what we thought with my brother's car, but when we changed the battery, everything went back to normal. The battery could've been really f**ked though.

It doesn't hurt to borrow a friends battery to see how things are going.

but dont forget that after the car cranks over and starts the alternator then provides power to the car.

I don't think coilpacks are the problem here, but you'll be looking at about $500, $650 or something like that for splitfires.

Yeah, that's what we thought with my brother's car, but when we changed the battery, everything went back to normal. The battery could've been really f**ked though.

It doesn't hurt to borrow a friends battery to see how things are going.

sounds like classic AFM (air flow meter) failure to me..

do a search for "+solder +AFM" and you will see how to fix it

alternative diagnoses could be ingitor failure and loose lead on the battery, but both less likely..

Edited by WazR32GTSt
sounds like classic AFM (air flow meter) failure to me..

do a search for "+solder +AFM" and you will see how to fix it

alternative diagnoses could be ingitor failure and loose lead on the battery, but both less likely..

I guess I'll bring it to the mechanic and ask him to fix this problem as it's getting to complicated.

Thanks.

Correct me if im wrong but you dont run a airflow meter with a haltec computer? (im probably wrong though!)

If you do run one though, it could easily just be that it isnt plugged in right/wired right. Seen it happen on my old 32

yeah but hte issue isthat its working intermittantly

and assuming that when it is working, that its working 1005 right, then its usually the contacts in the AFM which have come loose with time.

its a very easy job to re-solder them in so they don't come loose again.. costs $nothing

or just get a new AFM.. costs $100 for second hand, $500+ for new from Mr Nissan

good luck,

Warren

Fellas, thanks for everyone's support and time...

So I got myself a new sports battery - cost around $225 from Autobarn, chucked it in, turn on the car and let it idle for a couple of seconds so that the battery starts charging - then I took it for a 60 km drive... no problems whatsoever... I will do another semi-cruise next weekend... if the car runs fine then I'll conclude that it was the battery... as when the car just shuts down unexpectingly, I see the battery warning light come up first... so it must be it then... that's good, I suppose.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...