Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a TD0625G sitting around orginally bought for my gtt. Now that I have sold the car I plan to used it on a R33 GTR Im importing. How do you think of this turbo would work on a Rb26?

I don't really want to sell it since I will be losing money and it is a genuine Trust product.

I don't plan to get crazy 400awkw out of my GTR so I don't need a big single. 300awkw is all Im after with PFC, FMIC and injectors which is why I think this turbo should be up to the task and should be more reliable than the factory twins.

What do you think?

Thanks

Edited by BaysideBlue
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191062-small-single-on-gtr/
Share on other sites

I have a TD0625G sitting around orginally bought for my gtt. Now that I have sold the car I plan to used it on a R33 GTR Im importing. How do you think of this turbo would work on a Rb26?

I'm all for seeing a decent medium sized single on an RB26. A mate of mine is actually first firing up his R32 GT-R running a built RB26 and a .82 GT3540R on it - probably bigger than a TD06 25G but the same kind of idea.

a good mate of mine who has a GSTS 33 with a Rb26 conversion (did it ourself) has put a turbonetics T3/T4 turbo on the car with injectors and a autronic SM4 with 2 Z32 AFM's (to make it less harsh on the road). we see about 270rwkw out of that car, and its deadly respsonsive, full boost at about 2900 rpm then it just rockets to the 8k limiter lighting the tires up. if i do a roling start with my GTR runnin 450awkw and hist gtst that car noses ahead cuz the power is lighting fast, but after that the T04Z kicks in and he becomes a spec in the rear view. but i can tell you that turbo is super responsive on the 26 engine, it nearly put us in a lantarn post cuz of the rear end constantly stepping out in 1st 2nd and 3rd gear, its just brutal.

Based on how kick ass the 25G is on a 25, i can only imagine its going to be an equally good thing on an RB26. I personally dotn understand why the 25G isnt used more often as a sngle on 26s

guess people usually stick to twin setup for medium power upgrade and big single for 600hp+

a good mate of mine who has a GSTS 33 with a Rb26 conversion (did it ourself) has put a turbonetics T3/T4 turbo on the car with injectors and a autronic SM4 with 2 Z32 AFM's (to make it less harsh on the road). we see about 270rwkw out of that car, and its deadly respsonsive, full boost at about 2900 rpm then it just rockets to the 8k limiter lighting the tires up. if i do a roling start with my GTR runnin 450awkw and hist gtst that car noses ahead cuz the power is lighting fast, but after that the T04Z kicks in and he becomes a spec in the rear view. but i can tell you that turbo is super responsive on the 26 engine, it nearly put us in a lantarn post cuz of the rear end constantly stepping out in 1st 2nd and 3rd gear, its just brutal.

wow full boost at 2900rpm?? how much power was the turbo rated at? if he made 270rwkw im guessing its an 450hp turbo, only a guess but.

reason for asking I had a GT3240 on my gtt full boost at 3900-4000rpm and its rated at 550hp.

Edited by BaysideBlue

yea it comes onto boost quite heavy because of the smaller exhaust housing, but then again after 7200-7300 we are forced to pull timing cuz of the heat it begins to dail in to maintain the boost, that gives it somewhat of a soggy top end. but the midrange pull is just brutal, on semi slick radials it just tries to blow the air out of your lungs due to acceleration. the engine we run is the RB26, bored to 86.5mm using wiseco forgies and pauter H beam rods. the cranck was regrinded and ACL black bearings used allround. full ARP bolts and nuts all put together with surgical precision, i wanted to go perfect on this one so it took me about 4 months for the job. it has tomei lifters, jun springs and titanium retainers and tomei 254@ 9.15mm lift cams and to top it off, 0.5mm oversize manley gen II valves with a port job and a 5 angle valve job. I know i know, that turbo is choking the engine and not utilizing the power it is capable off, but after my bud built the engine invested in electronics and gearbox internals and differentials and respraying the car and bodykits etc he forgot the most crucial part, the TURBO, my wife had a new one that was ready to go on her EVO VIII and se sold it to him cheap, since then running on that till he saves up

wow full boost at 2900rpm?? how much power was the turbo rated at? if he made 270rwkw im guessing its an 450hp turbo, only a guess but.

reason for asking I had a GT3240 on my gtt full boost at 3900-4000rpm and its rated at 550hp.

I'd say thats more to do with the tune and subsequent cam timing not being as good as it could be.

Small / Medium single on a RB26, way of the future if u ask me :P

Custom GT35R with cams should net full boost by 4000 with a 430rwkw top end.

No one talks about these setups, cus they're so special - hahahah :teehee::)

Edited by GeeTR
Small / Medium single on a RB26, way of the future if u ask me :P

Custom GT35R with cams should net full boost by 4000 with a 430rwkw top end.

No one talks about these setups, cus they're so special - hahahah :teehee::)

t04z hit full boost by 4000rpm....

if you were looking at 300rwkw, go a well made externally gated gt3076r, torque monster!!!

i was acutally going to use this kind of setup on stockish motor, but decided to go nuts with motor and the Z for powa

Small / Medium single on a RB26, way of the future if u ask me :P

Custom GT35R with cams should net full boost by 4000 with a 430rwkw top end.

No one talks about these setups, cus they're so special - hahahah :teehee::)

Dont forget the non-pump fuel aswell for 430rwkw from a GT35

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...