Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This thread along with Mafia's and Lithiums have given me a great deal more knowledge on turbo choice (mind you alot of disco's essays still go over my head) so cheers guys.

I'm hoping that we can get some decent results of a real GT3071R .63 A/R on an RB25 soon, as I'm looking at this turbo as a real option for a mainly street driven, stock bottom end RB25. However if the guestimates of only 250-260 are correct I cant see the benefit of choosing this turbo over for example a GCG hiflow with either RB25 or VG30 housing. The cost would be much greater for the garrett when you sort out the lines, fittings, custom dump and intake. So my question is, if 250-260 is what this the Garrett is limited to then why bother?

Now, does anyone think that the GT3071R .6 could pull 280rwkw on pump fuel, stock manifolds, possibly cams? Or would the .8 be needed? Discuss

Finally does anyone in vic have a GT3071R equiped RB25, and feel like showing me what its like on the road? Would be much appreciated.

  • Replies 148
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I agree Cubes but even then you have to push them. My GCG hi flow is useless at 220kws 17.5lbs boost. 6 different tuners and a couple of grand wasted, I'm over it. 3071 .82 here I come.Can somebody access ATP turbo and give me their honest opinion. There is two different .82 housings. One is the Garrett but the other is like a flat machined housing with the waste gate hole and then you buy the flapper and v-band module separately.

Garrett IW FTW. Don't buy the other crappy 5bolt ford style.

The Garrett IW looks near identical to the XR6T IW design; but slightly improved. :D

Be sure to run with a well designed bell mouth dump as splits have a tendency to creep on the GT30 Garrett IW housings.

Better be safe than sorry.

Besides if boost levels are identical (of which they generally are not when running a split vs bell) if the split is plumbed in there's no difference in power. Have it screaming to atmo then yeah there is a slight power benefit. So back to back on the Dyno results have shown.

Yeah, I changed from a split to a bell on my hi flow and gained two kws, woo hoo (sarcastic). Just kidding, I've always believed the bell is a far superior design. No resistance to flow. So as a final order I'm getting the 3071 IW non cropped 60mm turbine with 2.75 comp. inlet. That inlet should make plumbing easier. Now, this should make 250-270rwkw and boost earlier than the 3076, ok ? Please tell me this is right. I can't believe how big a decision this is.

So as a final order I'm getting the 3071 IW non cropped 60mm turbine with 2.75 comp. inlet. That inlet should make plumbing easier. Now, this should make 250-270rwkw and boost earlier than the 3076, ok ? Please tell me this is right. I can't believe how big a decision this is.

As said / shown before - outright boost threshold the GT3071R seems to have nothing over the GT3076R. MAYBE (you'd have to go in both back to back) the GT3071R might have better part throttle behaviour, but I am serious when I say mine is really really nice to drive. You can tell its down on torque below 3000rpm but who drives hard there and expects to go fast aside from people with 5000rpm redlines?

Got a vid on youtube of a run from the drags this weekend where I managed to badly bog a launch with the .82a/r GT3076R racing a fairly mild R32 GTSt, gives a reasonable impression of how it pulls from low revs in 1st I think:

From what i have seen on 2 sr's with proper 3071's, the response really isn't far off gtrs/2871 thresholds.

Same goes for the only rb25 with 2835pros i've been in. That thing was making 1 bar a little over 3 grand in 3rd. Admittedly it's the smaller turbine and arguably better hks housing, but it is a .68 as opposed to .63 garrett so there's a bit of a trade off there. It took next to no throttle input to hear the thing spinning up

It's unfortunate that dyno print outs of boost often don't match what we see on the road. And transient response is something you can really only experience by driving. I still believe the 3071 is the street turbo to have and (as i've said before) if my old t3/4 nugget ever dies horribly i will be getting one.

OK, first thing Monday I'll be putting the order in and it should be here next day. I'll try to make a story out of it, lots of photos. I'll get all the fittings over here but the actuator from them. Though I have seen a beautiful machined actuator on another site but can't remember where, damn. They should have a flange and new bolts, studs. Can anybody think of anything else ?

Will be keen to see the results..

As for measuring the turbo's response. Maybe pick an rpm; say 4000rpm as it should be well and truley making all its boost by then.

Second gear stomp on the throttle. Third gear at a private track only. ;)

By using a video camera on the dash that also shows the boost gauge you 'should' be able to see a slight difference in response.

It took next to no throttle input to hear the thing spinning up

It's unfortunate that dyno print outs of boost often don't match what we see on the road. And transient response is something you can really only experience by driving. I still believe the 3071 is the street turbo to have and (as i've said before) if my old t3/4 nugget ever dies horribly i will be getting one.

Definitely agree re dyno print outs not showing the full thing, however showing my car bogging and recovering and destroying an R32 GTSt with stock turbo even by the end of first gear has to indicate somehow how quickly the thing builds? I think the GT3071R would be brilliant, and a bit better than the GT3076R for streetability. On the flipside its nice knowing I have 270rwkw and can EASILY go way past that. I think people are describing of GT3071R/GT2835s what I get with mine, ie - can hear the turbo spooling at minimum throttle in the 2000rpm range cruising around town. Throttle behaviour is very NA, etc. I'd *LOVE* to have an opportunity to drive a GT3071R and GT3076R turbo'd car back to back and see the difference actually.

If you are SURE you don't want more than 270rwkw, and can live with changing turbos if/when you change from the mindset of "My car is at the quick end of a mildly modded car" to "my car is at the slow end of a well modified car" or are pretty sure you won't change to that mindset then the GT3071R is the one ;)

Edited by Lithium

Good enough then, I'll get flanges from there just in case. No need to worry that way. Yes, 250kws will be just fine, 270 a bonus. Getting back to my original post, I want to be able to run more timing with the cooler intake charge which I can't do with the high flow for whatever reason. Is it a dud ? who cares, it's gone. Will take a couple of weeks to get everything together as in lines and stuff but a new intake pipe, silicone connectors, clamps and a large air cleaner to help it breathe. Was always going to make a new air box anyway so may as well do it now. Bare in mind I'm a bit of a fussy old bastard so all has to be right before the final tune.

As an aside, has some of you older posters remembered when a hi flow was just the ants pants ? Now there are so many choices, fantastic. I can still remember Martin Donnen putting a GT25 on a R33 and proudly gloating of it's 210kws.

Hi skylinecouple , an alternative to ATP is FullRace Motorsport in the US . Its run by Geoff Raicer and he's had lots to do with the real GT3071R and GT3076R . He's put some time into RB25's and 26's though most of what they make or sell is for Evo Lancers/Subarus/Supras because they are available in LHD .

He would be able to give you a much better idea of their characteristics on an RB25 than ATP which is really just a box up and sell operation . I don't know if he offers the GT30 IW turbine housings but it would be easy to ask him via E-mail . If he's been there with a std manifold he may even be able to supply the oil and water lines .

Your call but I think he's the most unbiased person to talk to about turbo systems because he's genuinely interested from a mechanical engineering point of view . If you explain up front that single scroll is all you want and need the integral gate GT30 housing he'll tell you the pros and cons of this system and the choice of turbo .

Search FullRace Motorsport for the E-mail or if you can't find it lets know and I'll PM you later .

Cheers A .

Thanks Disco, will do that right now. Damn it, keep thinking about the 3076. If boost comes on too early with the 3071 then it will be wheel spin city. But what if the smaller 71 comp. wheel needs to really get spinning as in lots of revs to move enough air to make the torque and power I'm after.? Shit, double shit.

Very informative discussion. I wish i had time to get away from uni studies and really look into this stuff and contribute. My stock turbo has started making some 'interesting' noises.. i was leaning towards the GT-RS kit and blindly trusting HKS's engineers (probably a safe bet) but reading this makes me reconsider.

Out of interest, do you guys just estimate volumetric/mass flow rates and efficiency (etc.) for number crunching? I notice the Garrett site has some basic information (although non-SI units frustrate me, i'm tempted to 'translate' their site :whistling:).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
    • I was able to get some underside photos while the car was on the ramp The suspension is all Altezza/IS200/IS300 so getting part's will hopefully be less of a headache
×
×
  • Create New...