Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey wat afc u got???

i thought of boughtin a power fc..but im not botherd either..i dont want to replace the stock ecu either..coz i only got a gtst..i got 243rwhp..so in kw's, dats lik 180..

so it cant b ur ecu..

my mods include..

3a racing pod,turbotech bleed valve @ 10psi, replica rs bov, front mount, splitfire coilpacks, re-gapped plugs to .65mm, HKS super drager cat-back exhaust, KYB damper adjustables coil-overs, apexi neo afc + tuned..

so yeah..i played around wit my afc alot..and im on my second tune already..lol

was using abit of fuel..so i lean out some settings..lik only to 0..lik i had some hi-throttle setting on +12 ??dont no y..so yeah..

and i run lik mid 13's to 14 flat..

plus i heard the stock nissan computer is really good!!

so i dont no..

dont think it would be ur ecu..

plus u got a upgrade turbo..

ur car probl. needs a beta tune?

or u gota problem somewer?

Edited by bumble_bee
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191261-please-remove/#findComment-3441420
Share on other sites

hey wat afc u got???

i thought of boughtin a power fc..but im not botherd either..i dont want to replace the stock ecu either..coz i only got a gtst..i got 243rwhp..so in kw's, dats lik 180..

so it cant b ur ecu..

my mods include..

3a racing pod,turbotech bleed valve @ 10psi, replica rs bov, front mount, splitfire coilpacks, re-gapped plugs to .65mm, HKS super drager cat-back exhaust, KYB damper adjustables coil-overs, apexi neo afc + tuned..

so yeah..i played around wit my afc alot..and im on my second tune already..lol

was using abit of fuel..so i lean out some settings..lik only to 0..lik i had some hi-throttle setting on +12 ??dont no y..so yeah..

and i run lik mid 13's to 14 flat..

plus i heard the stock nissan computer is really good!!

so i dont no..

dont think it would be ur ecu..

plus u got a upgrade turbo..

ur car probl. needs a beta tune?

or u gota problem somewer?

i have a manual safc, manual boost cont., splitfire coil pack, fmic, pod, 3inch dump and highflow cat to 3inch exahused, everything else is stock.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191261-please-remove/#findComment-3441446
Share on other sites

to run 180-190rwkw, i would want to have a aftermarket ecu or piggyback unit to keep everything under control.

I would also look at bigger injectors, as at 200rwkw you start to get close to 100% duty cycle, and possibly a better afm. (depending on what ecu you get, you might not require one).

if i was in your situation i would buy

Aftermarket ecu

electronic boost controller (if you haven't already got one)

free flowing 3" full exhaust.

550 injectors

But yeah the tuner is right by saying that a hiflow r33 turbo should be able to run more than 11psi. As the standard actuator on mine was able to hold 16psi.

with the mods i stated above, and a couple more, with my hiflow turbo i pushed 240rwkw on 16psi.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191261-please-remove/#findComment-3441450
Share on other sites

to run 180-190rwkw, i would want to have a aftermarket ecu or piggyback unit to keep everything under control.

I would also look at bigger injectors, as at 200rwkw you start to get close to 100% duty cycle, and possibly a better afm. (depending on what ecu you get, you might not require one).

if i was in your situation i would buy

Aftermarket ecu

electronic boost controller (if you haven't already got one)

free flowing 3" full exhaust.

550 injectors

But yeah the tuner is right by saying that a hiflow r33 turbo should be able to run more than 11psi. As the standard actuator on mine was able to hold 16psi.

with the mods i stated above, and a couple more, with my hiflow turbo i pushed 240rwkw on 16psi.

yeh i do plan to do all that, but dont have the cash right now. i only got the highflow turbo because i blow my stock one up and it was only 200 bucks more then another stock one(got it second hand cheap). im just hoping i can get by with what ive got for a month or 2 till i can afored the rest of the stuff i need. thanx mate.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191261-please-remove/#findComment-3441470
Share on other sites

yeah, could be anything

but looks lik afm, injectors, or ecu needs a good tune!

can u take it to another tuning place???

oh, check ur o2 sensor, i found on my second tune that mine died, so i replaced it myslef..

cost me $120 for a new gen. o2 sensor..

have u evan got a afc???

that would be the first piggyback system to get..

or evan an e-manage piggy unit..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191261-please-remove/#findComment-3441482
Share on other sites

i have a stock 33 gtst with just fmic, turbo back exhaust and boost controller set to 12psi and make 205rwkw....and power range is flat as a tack and runs a 13 flat....

so stock ecu, injectors, fuel pump can handle it....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191261-please-remove/#findComment-3441491
Share on other sites

Even the RB25 turbo on my RB30 is maxing the airflow meter just below 6000rpm.. I would guess that a hiflow on an RB25 is going to be maxing aswell.. if the ECU can't measure anymore air it can't throw in anymore fuel.. hence leaning out and pinging..

The stock ECU can only handle so much, if you start to go outside what it can measure/account for, then you need aftermarket management and bigger afm/injectors etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191261-please-remove/#findComment-3441500
Share on other sites

hey wat afc u got???

i thought of boughtin a power fc..but im not botherd either..i dont want to replace the stock ecu either..coz i only got a gtst..i got 243rwhp..so in kw's, dats lik 180..

so it cant b ur ecu..

my mods include..

3a racing pod,turbotech bleed valve @ 10psi, replica rs bov, front mount, splitfire coilpacks, re-gapped plugs to .65mm, HKS super drager cat-back exhaust, KYB damper adjustables coil-overs, apexi neo afc + tuned..

so yeah..i played around wit my afc alot..and im on my second tune already..lol

was using abit of fuel..so i lean out some settings..lik only to 0..lik i had some hi-throttle setting on +12 ??dont no y..so yeah..

and i run lik mid 13's to 14 flat..

plus i heard the stock nissan computer is really good!!

so i dont no..

dont think it would be ur ecu..

plus u got a upgrade turbo..

ur car probl. needs a beta tune?

or u gota problem somewer?

man, what are you saying?????

with his mods, the standard computer is not really any good. He should be getting an aftermarket computer. Most likely he is hitting R & R, after the high flow install.

drifta: my advice is to make sure ur afm is not maxing out, check you coils/plugs and if the problem is not there, get an aftermarket ecu and then wind more boost into it. But then, you'd be looking to get bigger injectors and bigger afm.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191261-please-remove/#findComment-3441512
Share on other sites

1. Get a decent ECU

2. Get a better AFM, or 1. with a map sensor

2. Get a decent Tune (from a new tuner, see comment below)

That will fix the problem.

Doing things 'on the cheap' im surprised you have not destroyed the motor already.

Pinging in the tune that is clearly heard... is a perfect example that the tuner should not be tuning. Its so sub-standard its not funny, so get a new tuner for the ECU setup

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191261-please-remove/#findComment-3441514
Share on other sites

man, what are you saying?????

with his mods, the standard computer is not really any good. He should be getting an aftermarket computer. Most likely he is hitting R & R, after the high flow install.

drifta: my advice is to make sure ur afm is not maxing out, check you coils/plugs and if the problem is not there, get an aftermarket ecu and then wind more boost into it. But then, you'd be looking to get bigger injectors and bigger afm.

Cheers

hey check this out..

the stock ecu is good just needs to be tuned rit..

ive read many articles of people using the stock ecu upto 300rwhp..

here check this link out and read wat it says about the stock ecu..

http://speedworks.com.au/products/bikirom/bikimain.html

so he shouldnt hav a problem here...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191261-please-remove/#findComment-3441551
Share on other sites

13-14psi boost on a highflow is not at all the same as 13-14 stock. that is your only problem. for sure the ecu is getting afm signals which make it say "WTF??". turn the boost down and try again

ive had stock ecus pinging and retarding timing at 12psi and up on stock turbo. to attempt it with a highflow is a bit stupid without any other engine management

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191261-please-remove/#findComment-3441803
Share on other sites

hey just from reading the original post it doesnt sound like an ecu issue. change the crank angle sensor on the front of the motor. that is more likely to be the issue, if that fails then good luck ,).

i would be almost certain thats the issue

dude i think your on the ball because my tuner said the same thing, he ran out of time to try it but its going bk tommorow so hopfully ur right. thanx mate.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191261-please-remove/#findComment-3441853
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
    • Mine is all -12, I’m running a dry sump in a billet block though 
    • HG's high flow is not "bolt on". The core is shorter, moves the comp cover rearwards in the engine bay. means you have to deal with the inlet plumbing a little bit. This is probably something to consider with every "bolt on" turbo anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...