Jump to content
SAU Community

Dyno Day  

67 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

\

Hillzy,

So your currently not driving your car?

If its going to blow up it will blow up on the road. If your worried about running it up on the dyno definitely do not give it a boot on the road as the road is not a controlled environment; you can't hear or see it pinging so you keep your foot in to it and BANG! :)

Oh everythings fine with it. Doesn't miss a beat! The thing is thrashing it right to the red line a few times on the dyno makes me all antsy in my pantsy.

Is it very hard on the engine?

  • Replies 326
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Oh everythings fine with it. Doesn't miss a beat! The thing is thrashing it right to the red line a few times on the dyno makes me all antsy in my pantsy.

Is it very hard on the engine?

You worry too much. :)

Its about as hard on the engine as overtaking on the open road in third gear.

If this is your first dyno day come along for a look see; you'll see no cars blow up etc and how its nothing more than a 5second run to peak power and then off again. :D

Oh everythings fine with it. Doesn't miss a beat! The thing is thrashing it right to the red line a few times on the dyno makes me all antsy in my pantsy.

Is it very hard on the engine?

haha

thrashing to the red line gets you worried? geeze, my RB25 spends 99% of its time on the limiter :dry: Ive thrashed my RB's more then most people on here will ever do... and not had one blow, let alone a power run on the dyno :P

as joel said, its a good opportunity to run it up anc check your AFR's and make sure all is A OK as you never know when your fuel pump might decide to cark it

Yes It will be at Boostworx again. Boostworx have the best price for a dyno day.

Myself I'm not too keen on spending $50 for a power run that some of the other dyno operators are charging when all you receive is a laminated dyno sheet with possibly a picture. GW does both 2wd and 4wd $40 and $50 respectively but $10 is $10.

I feel $30 is quite reasonable. A BBQ and Cold drinks will be available; Boostworx also has evap aircon so there will be plenty of air movement.

If the weather is possibly hot/warm it could be a really good time to hold a dyno day depending on how you look at it.

Its always good to have the car on the dyno during hot weather as you are able to find out how it runs in such conditions.

Is it pinging. Is it safe to give it a bit of a boot during hot weather?

So for those of you that don't have the car run up both in cold and hot weather it will be a good chance to see if the car is running well.

However... If the majority would like the day to be held a little later by all means it can be done. :rofl:

I personally don't mind the idea of a warm dyno day as its a good check up.

I'm glad that it is at Boostworx as all my previous dyno tuning was done there so I can compare results from the same dyno. Your point about having a dyno run in hot weather is valid as well.

Count me in.

Hey Shaun, hows things?

Car sounds just a little different now......

Hey Andrew,

All is going well just not as well as yours. lol

Have youy sold your black GTST yet or not? Might have someone that is interested if it is still about!!!

  • 1 month later...

Hey ppls,

Unsure how this thread ended up closed; maybe I clicked something without realizing. :woot:

This dyno day is still up and running.

I'll look at getting peoples to start laying some $$ down to secure the day.

If we don't get the required minimum the day won't go ahead. Which is unlikely given the interest shown.

We need a minimum of 10 people to pay in full ($30), those that pay first get to choose when they want to run. Those that don't pay upfront don't get to choose and their spot may not be secured if there are too many cars on the day.

Its cooler in the morning. :(

Cubes,

What's the chance of Shaun spending a little time checking/adjusting on the cars? I was thinking of putting on the turbotech before this day and doing my best to set it to about 10psi and having it checked out on the day. Do you think shaun would spend some time adjusting it if its not dead on 10psi, or is it simply on-off the rollers?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
×
×
  • Create New...