Jump to content
SAU Community

Wot Clutch U Got

Pal

By Pal,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

kudos.motorsports Grand Master

kudos.motorsports

Posted
Posted

Hi Eric,

Your clutch selection will really depend on your driving style and power output. If you want to drop me a brief outline, I'll let you know what will work best and price.

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

Exedy (I think?) 4 puck sprung brass button clutch with a real heavy pressure plate. Handles the immense abuse I like to dish out :) Came out of my mates commodore, handled everything he threw at it until he got on the strip with slicks and 460rwhp.

Dsturbd Grand Master

Dsturbd

Posted
Posted

I have a OS twin plate in my 31 coupe ..

The 31 race car has a extreme 9 button n holds up well with 338hp , its had no issues n competed in clasic challenge , dutton rally with 2 drivers n handled 1.7 60fts at drags , also run same clutch in my mates GTS 2 r31 and his wife drives it with no hassles ( her daily is auto )

ryano Contributor

ryano

Posted
Posted

I also have an OS Giken twin plate in my R32 gtst (300hp) and have drifted all year with it, kicking the clutch ocasionally and it still works fine. The clutch pedal bracket busted the welds though just the other day, but thats common and nothing a bit of welding can't fix:)

Kaido_RR Grand Master

Kaido_RR

Posted
Posted (edited)

wouldn't use another extreme clutch even if it was free...

nismo twin plate all the way!

or if you dont want to spend that much cash 1k*ish will get you nismo super copper max single plate which inc lighten flywheel

Edited by [Michael]
Pal Veteran

Pal

Posted
  • Author
Posted

looking at about 350hp when finished(when the missus lets me). have 270hp at moment and the one in there is also a 9 puck xtreme. had a bit of a look at it and worked out it may not be set up right as I only got to push it about 20mm to disengage the clutch. i sometimes rest my foot on the peddle between changing gears and this is enough for the clutch to start slipping under power. also may have a bit of air in line as it sometimes makes a small hydraulic squeek when letting out the clutch fast. its going in for a tune on tuesday so i will get the mechanic to bleed the clutch to see if it makes a difference!

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted
Exedy h/d 5 puck sports ceramic - had it for a few months, grips real nice, but its been feeling funny lately... the friction point likes to move alot lol... even after its been warmed up

Sounds like what's happening to mine.. friction point moves to the floor and I lose the top half of the pedal travel..

I started a thread in Drivetrain etc but no1 has replied yet :)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t191728.html

Dsturbd Grand Master

Dsturbd

Posted
Posted
Sounds like what's happening to mine.. friction point moves to the floor and I lose the top half of the pedal travel..

I started a thread in Drivetrain etc but no1 has replied yet :ermm:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t191728.html

Sounds like a hydraulic problem ...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Why are people so insistent on making dirty water?!
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
×
×
  • Create New...