Jump to content
SAU Community

You Might Wana Park Your Skyline Up For A While :)

BANGN

By BANGN,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

R34GTFOUR Mentor

R34GTFOUR

Posted
Posted (edited)

meh, you dont buy a skyline or any "performance" car for that matter for good fuel economy, you do it cause you enjoy driving.

Even though i dont like spending more money on fuel, i still think its relatively cheap. I mean, its my only means of transport and one of my biggest hobbies yet it only cost me 50-60bucks a week to run the thing (beside obvious maintenance), i spend over double that in a night on the piss

Edited by R34GTFOUR
Rekin Grand Master

Rekin

Posted
Posted
barrels are up to a USD$93, strong aussie dollar should buffer that though.

expect no more petroleum in the next couple of decades, we will/should be bone dry.

According to Wheels Car magazine (November issue), we have only extracted just over 50% of oil in the world. In the calculations of the article, we cannot burn all oil in the world as this will create far too much co2 emissions, therefore alternative energy vehicles will be in full force before we will drain all the oil in the world.

R34GTFOUR Mentor

R34GTFOUR

Posted
Posted
when your paying $9.50 a litre for race fuel it all sounds so cheap

hahaha so true, my mate is coughing up over 500bucks to fill his XR6T with race fuel for motorvation, thats gotta hurt the pocket...

N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted
HAHAHA i was thinkin the same thing lol

but fuel prices really do suck, i wish i had a company fuel card and a skyline for a company car :P

Yeah, fuel cards are the bomb

Eug Grand Master

Eug

Posted
Posted
According to Wheels Car magazine (November issue), we have only extracted just over 50% of oil in the world. In the calculations of the article, we cannot burn all oil in the world as this will create far too much co2 emissions, therefore alternative energy vehicles will be in full force before we will drain all the oil in the world.

proven oil reserves dropped by 0.1% from 2005 to 2006

oil consumption up by 0.7% from 2005 to 2006

and in conjunction with what wheels magazine says that we have extracted just over 50% (i'd like to see their source). we are hitting peak oil now, the fact that we are using more than we can find/produce - we'll see a steep decline in availability* and thus an increase in demand and costs.

*think bell shaped curve.

you are correct, alternative energies is the way to go (despite the irony that we are on a forum for cars that basically eat, live and breathe fuel).

i think the earth will suffocate itself long before any of our distant plans come to fruition.

Triptych Proficient

Triptych

Posted
Posted

My friends girl friend is a manager for BP and I will talk to her about all this over the weekend see if she can confirm or deny anything. If I remember correctly I believed she mentioned something a few years ago about BP getting oil from singapore but I could be wrong.

S04R3R Rising Star

S04R3R

Posted
Posted

Fuel prices have never made me drive less. High fuel prices just make me more cranky. I love driving so i guess it is the price I pay. When i had my soarer which cost around 120 or more to fill annoyed me and at some points I was paying 1.55-1.60 then when it got writen off =[ the prices went down to something liek 1.20 :S

I guess if it gets to the point of $5 per litre i might drive less but until then i will keep making that hole in the ozone layer bigger.

bombtrack Experienced

bombtrack

Posted
Posted
Not gonna happen. Not an overnight double in price which is pretty much what you are sayin

Perhaps not double... but it wouldn't be the first time oil prices jump considerably over night.

Doesn't bother me anyway, until they outlaw fossil fuel or bowser prices reach $5+ or my skyline becomes unstreetable, my line stays on the road :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...