Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

okay the temp sensor is in the right spot. its on the intake pipe with the temp sensor inside the pipe. a wolf will not work unless it has this reading. and i though it was shit but lets just say that after 10min of pushing 21psi the car was still reading bellow ambient temp. it is possibile. how does a fridge work. the gasses are compressed and the alowed to expand. the piping from turbo to cooler is 2" and the piping after is 3".

i talked to my dad about it the first time i saw the reading cause i though it was impossibile but at the next vic cruise he should be there and you can get in the passanger seat and read it stright off the wolf hand set or of a computer what ever you choose but it does work.

Roy i don't have to do that cause the wolf engineer couldn't comprehend what he was seen but after 2 temp sensors and the wolf programer sayinng that the results were right he has a car that is tuned and is pussing the 290rwkw.

i don't care i have done physics and i do know that it is not impossibile but it is hard to do and sadly he is one of the guys that has got it to work so he will always kick my arse in a drag on a hot day.

Sorry, since you have done physics maybe you can tell me how.

You cant use the example of a fridge, they use gases known as refrigerants (what type i dont know... it may be R22) and use condensers and evaporators to do what you are claiming is possible.

Im not doubting what you say is true, its the explanation that the intercooler is responsible for the inlet temp is what im having trouble with.

I work in the engineering field and have had experience with heat exchangers used in naval vessels, power generation, air conditioning etc. I cant see that its possible.

Does the air temp readings make sense when you look at how the car is beind driven.

You've got me hooked now, what fuel is he using.

Actually im guessing the computer is interpreting the voltage signal from the air temp sensor wrong. What type is it, Delco?

The car will still run great as its being tuned off a lambda up its exhaust, and will be tuned to a signal (whatever its range) from the air temp sensor for air temp compensation.

Now the handset is telling you 4 degrees, great i dont doubt thats what its saying. But the calc its doing to convert voltage to temp isnt right.

Id go as far as to say that the ECU is out by a factor of 10, either by x10 in code or resistor used somewhere. When its reading 4 its actually 40degrees.

You are correct - gases do get cooler when they expand. Refrigerants are really just gases that have desirable condensing/evaporating temperatures/pressures.

I find it very unlikely that you would ever experience this sort of effect.

browny, yeh that actually makes even more sense.

Id still have a leaning towards the conversion from voltage to air temp is out, as i would think it unusual that they display inlet air temp in this manner.

During the tuning you would have to factor in what the inlet temp is displaying over the ambient temp. If it reads relative, you would then have to tell the ECU relatice to what

Wouldnt this make it more difficult to actually use the reading for air temp compensation?

Im hooked i need to know why the handset is reading the way it is:D

Guy sadly i'm going on holidays for 3 weeks and wont have the net. look roy i'll be back and when i do so i'll get you a meeting with Ryan the guy with this cooler and amazing car.

i've PMed his number to you call him and find out for yourself.

cheers Dave

Guy sadly i'm going on holidays for 3 weeks

Sadly, hell holidays are good, i could only screw 2 weeks out of my bosses. :D

Im in Syd, so cant really ever see the car, but would still like to know more about the car. Cheers and have a good holiday:D

Hi guys. Another engineer - couldn't help but chip in. For any heat exchanger (i.e. intercooler) to cool incoming gas to the same temperature as the coolant (i.e. ambient air) would require an infinite surface area. The most efficient heat exchangers, using fluids with good heat transfer charateristics (i.e. liquids, not gases), will at best give you an approach temperature between the two streams of 5 degrees C. Gas to gas heat exchangers are much less efficient, because the heat transfer coefficient from the gas to the metal and then metal to the gas is very low, even with turbulent flow on both sides of the metal. Expansion of a gas will give you some cooling effect as well. Going from 2" to 3" pipe more than doubles the cross sectional area of the pipe, so it is a significant expansion. But the temperature drop due to such an expansion I would doubt would be significant. Anyone fancy doing PV=nRT calcs, while allowing for compressibility?

Such fun.

I also know a guy who has retested a situation where he was pulling negative temperature differences...I don't know how much of a difference (I assume it wasn't anything significant) but he is very thorough and swears to it.

He's the type of person who would do nothing else in his workshop for a week until he has resolved something.

I remember he mentioned the type/size/quality of the FMIC core had a lot to do with it.

Hi R31_IceMan, all of us experienced in this field say it is impossible. So I would say there is a problem with the measurement, either the positioning of the sensors or their calibration.

Simply put you have one temperature gauge/sensor reading the ambient temperature and another temperature gauge/sensor reading the inlet air temperature. The answer would be to swap them over and then see what sort of readings you get.

My money is on calibration error.

An air-air intercooler cannot possibly reduce the charge air temp below ambient. Otherwise the charge air would start drawing heat from the ambient air because it is at a lower temp - simple thermodynamics.

So the absolute best you could expect the IC to achieve is ambient temperature of the charge air.

And because no air-air IC is 100% efficient, that is impossible to achieve.

My 2c (physics and chemistry)

just to add another simple thing..

does this car have a pod filter sitting in the engine bay?

My R32 GTST has an AMB temp button on the dash.

I also bought a little digital temp gauge which has a temp probe.

the temp probe is stuck in to my pod filter.

the pod filter is partitioned off from the engine bay by this foam/heat shield material (not the best but it is ok for now)

when driving at night at about 80km/h, amb temp showing 15 degrees, the partitioned pod filter temp shows 17 degrees (which is damn good)

in stop go traffic, I've seen the temps go to 55 degrees at the filter while it is about 18 outside.

now this is while driving off boost or sort of on and off low boost..

Now, if the air going in my pod filter is say 20 degrees on a 15 degree night, then it goes through the turbo being compressed causing it to heat up some more, how can you expect an intercooler which is simply air to air to reduce this temp to below 15 degrees?

I will be getting another of these digital temp gauge/probes to put in just before the throttle butterfly so I can see how efficient my intercooler is and also to see what temps are entering the engine.

I will add another post when this is done to let you all know.

by the way, the temp gauge I bought is good from -30 to +150 degrees.

I tested it with a normal chemist thermometer in a glass of water and it was identical.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...