R34 Gtr Nur Motor

[Angus Smart]

Hey guys,

I'm considering purchacing a R34 Nur long motor from japan as my current 32 motor has seen better days and i consider this a pretty cost effective way to go about it..

i'd like to know specs on the actual nur motor, what their weakness is, and how much power would i get out of it?

I know its got N1 pistons, N1 rings, N1 rods?, N1 block, N1 oil and water pumps.

And is there anything i need to know about putting a 34 motor into a 32? Such as parts from my 32 motor

Turbos would be good.

Cams not sure about??

Injectors should be fine as with the reg

Plenum should be fine.

Cheers

Andrew

[IDO 11S R32]

I know that they come standard with the Garrett 2860R-7, with a boost controler and power FC you should be able to get about 300awkw from the stock motor. You will however need bigger injectors to achieve this and at that power level I dont know how the reliability will be in terms of you oil feed situation. As with all RB motors, you could run the risk of spinning a bearing, I believe all the oil galleries and sump are as standard. Personally I think it will be fine if you are using it just for the street but most people will tell you to fix the problem properly before installing the engine. However keep in mind that this will probably lead to a full engine rebuild which will cost $$$$$. I think the best solution will be to just add a high volume sump and baffle kit before installing the engine, you can get away with this for about $1500 and it will improve reliability. But you really should speak with a good engine builder, one who is experienced with the GTR and get advice from them, make sure you know what you want from the engine before installing it and build it appropriatly. If you have to buy turbos, I would go for the Garrett 2860R-5. If your local to Sydney call Croyden Racing. Speak with them, they know the GTR like the back of there hands, they will put you in the right direction. Personally I think the N1 engine is an awsome platform for a build. Sort the oil problem out and a good set of turbos will make an awsome motor which should make big HP. Goodluck

[IDO 11S R32]

Just out of curiosity what is the N1 engine worth, and where are you getting it from in Japan?

[1400r]

http://page16.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/u18525849

5k in japan ++++

[Angus Smart]

Moray - I've probably got around 500hp at the moment. so i've got all the gear to just bolt right across Hopefully. i should have really listed what i have.

I've got N1 turbos which have been high flowed alittle. 5mm bigger front wheel.

and all the other supporting gear to go with them.

its been abused on the track for most of its life in japan and a wee bit here. so i dare say it has some sort of baffle and restrictor already fitted.. i beleive the motor has been opened up in japan too. according to auction report.....

cams, injectors, trust front /dump pipe,

and i'm keen to work out what else i should do to the n1 motor while its out of the car for the ease of it. rod bolts perhaps on the list?? And also what will go across from the 32 gear i have as i think the 34 and 32 are slightly different?

i'm not that keen on going overboard with pistons rods etc as i dont see the point they will run the power i have now and i think thats plenty

http://page16.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/u18525849

5k in japan ++++

Yeah its roughly this. i'm obviously going to buy it thru their website rather than yahoo. as its only Y455000..

Edited November 6, 2007 by Angus Smart

[IDO 11S R32]

Im no expert, but I can tell you what I know from what I have seen and read. We all know that a stock RB26 bottom end is good for 600hp and an N1 motor is better again with the stronger block, better pistons etc.. Now if it has stock N1 oil and water pump I think they would be good enough as long as you do the sump extension and baffle kit etc etc.. Just look at the last edition of ignition at the Duton R32 GTR, over 400awkw with an N1 oil pump, people will tell you that N1 oil pumps are sh#t but that is a race car that gets flogged every time it goes out and its running an N1 oil pump with no problems. All your bolt on parts should fit as I believe they are essentially the same motor. I would just check that the mounting points are the same and make sure it will bolt up to your gearbox, however im sure if it doesnt there would be an adaptor plate available, you wouldnt be the 1st person to do this. As for diferences in the motor, Im not sure, I know the crank is different but you would leave the 34 crank in as is is better then the 32 item, everything else in the motor should be N1 gear which unless is badly worn or broken shouldnt be changed. But again either take it to someone or get someone you know who is a good mechanic to look at it before installing it. You will probably want to change bearings and re-ring it as it would basicly be a fresh engine then, if you get the head off make sure you fit a good quality metal head gasket so you can push more boost safely. But Just think about this, if you are going to do a full build, pistons, rods, etc.. you might want to look at buying an N1 block from here, your head will bolt straight on and will probably be cheaper then buying a complete motor and binning all the internals. Anyway Ive probably just confused you, at the end of the day ots your decision, you have to decide what you want and then go for it. Good luck

[PIG747]

^^^that hurts my eyes. A few parragraphs would hurt

[Angus Smart]

Im no expert, but I can tell you what I know from what I have seen and read. We all know that a stock RB26 bottom end is good for 600hp and an N1 motor is better again with the stronger block, better pistons etc.. Now if it has stock N1 oil and water pump I think they would be good enough as long as you do the sump extension and baffle kit etc etc.. Just look at the last edition of ignition at the Duton R32 GTR, over 400awkw with an N1 oil pump, people will tell you that N1 oil pumps are sh#t but that is a race car that gets flogged every time it goes out and its running an N1 oil pump with no problems. All your bolt on parts should fit as I believe they are essentially the same motor. I would just check that the mounting points are the same and make sure it will bolt up to your gearbox, however im sure if it doesnt there would be an adaptor plate available, you wouldnt be the 1st person to do this. As for diferences in the motor, Im not sure, I know the crank is different but you would leave the 34 crank in as is is better then the 32 item, everything else in the motor should be N1 gear which unless is badly worn or broken shouldnt be changed. But again either take it to someone or get someone you know who is a good mechanic to look at it before installing it. You will probably want to change bearings and re-ring it as it would basicly be a fresh engine then, if you get the head off make sure you fit a good quality metal head gasket so you can push more boost safely. But Just think about this, if you are going to do a full build, pistons, rods, etc.. you might want to look at buying an N1 block from here, your head will bolt straight on and will probably be cheaper then buying a complete motor and binning all the internals. Anyway Ive probably just confused you, at the end of the day ots your decision, you have to decide what you want and then go for it. Good luck

Yeah i'm hearing you. at first i was thinking this would just go straight in, with a few mods eg: Sump baffle, restrictor and my cams.

Remember, its a Brand new crate motor. so no need to replace any of the internals.

Now i'm looking into this more, its not going to be as cheep as i first thought. i can see another 3-4k spending on the motor before it even goes in the car

i have a r34 getrag(gearbox) in my car. so there is no difference between the 32 engine block and 34 engine block in that regard..

i'm probably still going to consider this anyway. i've factored in my selling of parts too. as i've not really damaged anything in my motor but it has seen better days.

cheers

Andrew

Edited November 7, 2007 by Angus Smart

[stolen_s15]

The NUR motor will drop in no problems, it will be an easy process. But if the engine is not the exact specs that you want from your rb26, then dont buy it. If you have specific requirments from your next engine, and those are not met by the crate engine, then get your current rb26 rebuilt to the exact specs you desire.

[Blitz]

The NUR motor will drop in no problems, it will be an easy process. But if the engine is not the exact specs that you want from your rb26, then dont buy it. If you have specific requirments from your next engine, and those are not met by the crate engine, then get your current rb26 rebuilt to the exact specs you desire.

Bingo.

[rev210]

Im no expert, but I can tell you what I know from what I have seen and read. We all know that a stock RB26 bottom end is good for 600hp and an N1 motor is better again with the stronger block, better pistons etc..

The standard internal RB26 is a ticking time bomb with 600hp without attention to things like the oiling system, namely the oil surge issue, they ideally need at least oil restrictors fitted. But, that would just be the start of a 600hp motor build that would hang together for a while.

The N1's bottom end need attention to the restrictors as well, they don't factory fit them. The N1 oil pump fitted to the standard or N1 block logically makes more oil go straight to the head to slosh about up there, potentially starving the bottom end on a hard corner.

[Beer Baron]

Just look at the last edition of ignition at the Duton R32 GTR, over 400awkw with an N1 oil pump, people will tell you that N1 oil pumps are sh#t but that is a race car that gets flogged every time it goes out and its running an N1 oil pump with no problems.

sorry mate, but that is far from correct. the car you refer to lunched it's engine after the N1 pump failed. so I wouldn't think it wise to tell people that they are running an N1 pump "with no problems". I would call full engine rebuild a problem personally.

[Angus Smart]

The NUR motor will drop in no problems, it will be an easy process. But if the engine is not the exact specs that you want from your rb26, then dont buy it. If you have specific requirments from your next engine, and those are not met by the crate engine, then get your current rb26 rebuilt to the exact specs you desire.

i feel the internals are perfect for my use...

whats been bought to my attention is the oil problems.

things i will need to buy and do..

looking at sump extension, which no doubt i will have custom made by a friend.

oil restrictor

Jun pump. (i know the n1's can fail)

Head gasket.

then possibly head work also..

i will obviously need another 3-4k ontop of what i pay for the engine before it even makes it into the car..

so there is roughly 8-9k spent on doing the whole process..

then i can sell what i already have to make back what i've spent. so i might be able to knock off about 3-4k from that expense..

anything else i have missed?

[Beer Baron]

well only the fact that the engine is still in japan. if you know of a cheap way to freight engines quickly, easily and safely then I'm all ears!

doing a nur motor into your car is at least a $10K proposition to do properly. and then of course you still don't have good rods or pistons, but at least you have a brand spanking new motor.

[N1GTR]

Why bother?

Get your old RB26 out of the car and rebuild it with forgies and good rods, etc, that should be ok on the wallet aswel

[femno]

I was just about to say that N1!

Whats the big fuss about having a N1 motor in your car? Just so you can say 'ive got a nur engine'?

Id go with rebuilding your engine. No wasted money on freight etc etc and then you can get exactly what you want.

Why buy a brand new engine only to pull it apart and add bits it doesnt have???....sure fit a restrictor and JUN pump as youve said... (yes head has to come off the put in the restrictor). Even if you left it as is the water pump may not be suitable if its a streeter....What a waste of time pulling apart your brand new engine.

This all hardly makes any sense. :S

If you can find an engine builder who actually knows what theyre doing, then it should be as good as the nissan factory engine if you like the sound of rebuilding to proper specs, or nissan specs or similar to...(I kno i do!)

[IDO 11S R32]

sorry mate, but that is far from correct. the car you refer to lunched it's engine after the N1 pump failed. so I wouldn't think it wise to tell people that they are running an N1 pump "with no problems". I would call full engine rebuild a problem personally.

I stated that the car is running an N1 pump, also numerous people from this site have also stated they are running N1 oil pumps and making good power with no problems, I have read some threads from this site and others, and from what people have said the N1 pumps generally only break if you bounce the engine off the rev limiter constantly. I am only stating what I have read, like I said I am no expert and dont claim to be!

[Angus Smart]

well only the fact that the engine is still in japan. if you know of a cheap way to freight engines quickly, easily and safely then I'm all ears!

doing a nur motor into your car is at least a $10K proposition to do properly. and then of course you still don't have good rods or pistons, but at least you have a brand spanking new motor.

Yeah. brother has alot of contacts in the automotive business. and a friend who imports parts whos willing to thorw it in their container it for free..

the internals are still going to be good for what i need correct? just the track work which i wish to get more involved with southern.

350kw at the wheels is a number that would be good.

to everyone mentioning about cost/rebuilding what i have now.... I fully see your point. it doesnt seem like how i thought the nur engine would be price wise at first.

i saw this as a rather cheep option than using what i have now. but it appears they are roughly the same if i sell bits and pieces i dont use from current setup..

Edited November 11, 2007 by Angus Smart

[padey]

Thread resurrection !

So are you still weighing this up? Or did you go local rebuild?

I like the sound of a new engine, and selling your working engine and with that cash buying some performance bit.

padey

[blk180]

padey ask Beerbaron as he is doing this as we speak.